Huztl MS660

[TimTaylor]

Just make sure that your cylinder mounts with the bore central. My big bore cylinder had the mounting holes drilled off center and I have heard of that being the case on other cylinders as well. I guess it was loading up the big end and coupled with the slightly strange combustion chamber shape and my too low squish just knocked it to death. You could see that it had gotten very hot before it failed and to it's credit the con rod didn't come to pieces, unlike a genuine Husqvarna I was given yesterday that had trashed the cases as well.
It all makes for interesting coffee table paper weights

Sent from my HUAWEI VNS-L22 using Tapatalk

 

[Johnnybar]

Is there anything that you need to do to insure that the connecting rod is central to the bore other than making sure that the crank is centered? When I put mine together, the difference between the width of the crank and the opening in the case was ~70 thousandths, so I positioned the crank so that I had 35 thousandths on each side and called it good. Is there something else that I should have done there?

I went ahead and picked up an NWP crank - which was priced about 3X higher than the most inexpensive stuff on e-bay and 3X lower than OEM - so hopefully that'll translate into a normal working life.

Checking in with you guys after a long sabbatical and came across your troubles with the 660. What oil and ratio did you use and what tune and break-in process was used? Did you pre lube all bearings during assembly? My 100% Hutzl FarmerTec has ran fine for slab milling with 32:1 synthetic and a rich tune. I believe the first tank or two was 24:1 and short runs with plenty of idling in order to keep things extra cool the first day of milling.

 

[davhul]

Checking in with you guys after a long sabbatical and came across your troubles with the 660. What oil and ratio did you use and what tune and break-in process was used? Did you pre lube all bearings during assembly? My 100% Hutzl FarmerTec has ran fine for slab milling with 32:1 synthetic and a rich tune. I believe the first tank or two was 24:1 and short runs with plenty of idling in order to keep things extra cool the first day of milling.

I'm with you here on the extra oil. I personally run 32:1 all the time for the extra lube for the bearings and the chrome cylinder I also keep the tune around 12,5-12,8k.
I had 3 I built to gave to friends and 2 in which cuts wood everyday and are a year old now. The other guy cuts only firewood but all 3 run a 32-36" bar.
I don't want to jinx myself but their all running good and their happy so far and when I don't hear from them no news is good news.

A rod bearing failure is easily determined by just seeing how much rotational movement the flywheel has with the piston not moving. I do feel the crank Assembly Is the weak point in the saw at what $13. I told my guys to atleast run 40:1 and hope they listen.
Oh the guy that put cabers in I did the same thing then I took them out when I realized I had chrome cylinders. The rings are to hard for chrome. Hope you get it worked out.

 

[TheTone]

I'm with you here on the extra oil. I personally run 32:1 all the time for the extra lube for the bearings and the chrome cylinder I also keep the tune around 12,5-12,8k.
I had 3 I built to gave to friends and 2 in which cuts wood everyday and are a year old now. The other guy cuts only firewood but all 3 run a 32-36" bar.
I don't want to jinx myself but their all running good and their happy so far and when I don't hear from them no news is good news.

A rod bearing failure is easily determined by just seeing how much rotational movement the flywheel has with the piston not moving. I do feel the crank Assembly Is the weak point in the saw at what $13. I told my guys to atleast run 40:1 and hope they listen.
Oh the guy that put cabers in I did the same thing then I took them out when I realized I had chrome cylinders. The rings are to hard for chrome. Hope you get it worked out.

Were the Caber rings AI or AF? I get AI rings from the Greek guy, but I've seen Caber AF rings on other sites at a lower price. The AI rings are a bit softer.

 

[davhul]

How do you like them long term? I didnt look I heard there was different ones but didn't want to chance it.
I actually like the softer rings and hope the saw lasts to wear them out.

 

[TheTone]

How do you like them long term? I didnt look I heard there was different ones but didn't want to chance it.
I actually like the softer rings and hope the saw lasts to wear them out.

Actually, I haven't been doing this long enough to comment on long term. I gathered from reading AS posts that AF rings are too hard for chrome cylinders. Someone posted that they thought the Chinese rings were like AF's, but I don't know for sure. I just always get the AI rings regardless (make sure your source gives you that info).

 

[davhul]

Thanks, I'll have to see if there's a mark on the rings to tell.

 

[TheTone]

I have not found markings on the rings themselves. Supposedly the Caber rings have a shorter slope at the pin that most others, but I don't know how to tell AI from AF. I'm trusting the seller.

 

[davhul]

This is some Fault Analysis info that might help someone determine what caused a failure. File was to large hope the zip works

 

[galvprobigd]

It was the coil keeping me from running consistently. Pressure and vacuum tested it again and came back good. Checked the metering lever and it was off ever so slightly. Still nothing. Replaced the coil and gapped it to .025+ and it runs and starts like I would expect it too.

 

[hacksaw11111]

It turns out the clutch bearing was not at fault in my case after all as the oem bearing didn't improve things - the drum was still too tight on the bearing / shaft. An oem drum would have been the easiest, quickest option but I chose to lap / polish the bore of the supplied drum with a very simple turned wooden mandrel wrapped in wet & dry. It was a slow process making sure not to enlarge the bore any more than necessary but I'm happy to report it worked great leaving a finish far better than any oem drum I've seen.

With the M6 muffler bolts added it was time to see if it would start. I was expecting a wrestling match but it popped on 4th pull with choke and fired next pull on hi idle - no carb adjustments needed to have it run rich where it will remain for the first few tanks.

So far I'm certainly very impressed by how well it runs just as a stock saw. So much so that the plan to improve the squish and spend time polishing the ports etc having confirmed its a runner, have for now, been shelved - to be revisited when I have more free time.

H, Im having the same issue. What did you use to sand this, a drill press or just a dowel by hand? thx

 

[paul99]

H, Im having the same issue. What did you use to sand this, a drill press or just a dowel by hand? thx

I put the dowel in the drill press with the drill speed as fast as it would go. I held the clutch drum to the table by hand allowing just enough side to side movement for the thing to self centre and worked the quill up and down to slowly ease / hone the inner diameter until it would slide over the bearing as they normally should. I allowed the drum to rotate very slowly in my hand each time I lowered the quill to help with keeping the bore straight and centered. I've made it sound far more complicated than it actually was TBH you'll soon work it out - mine was liteterally only a few thousands too tight and was done in less time than it's taken me to type this.

 

[hacksaw11111]

Have my 56mm version thrown in with a couple of essentially stock Jonsered "Hobby" saws with similar cylinder designs but you might get a sense of where they sit on the saw stack. Again these saws were not modified much and the AM 660 was just bolted together.



I've run mine for over a year, the 56mm version actually quite a bit...it's strong enough to get your attention but not earth shattering. For the price there isn't anything in the same league new or used which is how it should be evaluated. LOL You can get a kit for the price of those special letters at the end of your saws .. AND its something actually accomplished by you when you are done. As these folks here are learning its not a paint by the numbers type of a project, but at the end a LOT of things will be learned and understood relative to saw repair AND a very functional 90cc class saw will be ready to do real work. These type deals can open up an entire new dimension to the saw hobby....hands on learning with little risk as they are cheap.

A 36 dollar free shipping 56mm top end...same as mine. Free port issue and everything.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BIG-BORE-56...376805?hash=item51caa846e5:g:9pwAAOxyLN9SjLz2

Hi - How much freeport does you saw have? as much as this?

 

[weimedog]

Hi - How much freeport does you saw have? as much as this?
View attachment 641451 View attachment 641452

I built all mine with the gasket, most of mine had free port around .010

 

[snake_2586]

Here's a question for you all, I built one of these late last year, and have been using it for milling on and off, I don't know how many tanks of fuel it has had through it, but it is safe to say it is run in.
when I was using it yesterday it had just finished its second tank of fuel of the morning half way through a cut, (you know you can tell when they are running low on fuel, so rather than let it stall I killed it like normal), filled it up again and it refused to start.
I gave up and put it back in the shed, I went out to it this afternoon, like normal one pull on choke it popped, knock the choke off another two pulls and it roars back to life.

Can anyone enlighten me as to why the hell it is doing this? so I can save some frustration.

 

[Bedford T]

Here's a question for you all, I built one of these late last year, and have been using it for milling on and off, I don't know how many tanks of fuel it has had through it, but it is safe to say it is run in.
when I was using it yesterday it had just finished its second tank of fuel of the morning half way through a cut, (you know you can tell when they are running low on fuel, so rather than let it stall I killed it like normal), filled it up again and it refused to start.
I gave up and put it back in the shed, I went out to it this afternoon, like normal one pull on choke it popped, knock the choke off another two pulls and it roars back to life.

Can anyone enlighten me as to why the hell it is doing this? so I can save some frustration.

Never let it go lean. Stop and fill your tank up. It was likely dry and if you had kept pulling on it it would have flooded. You use a oem hose if you are not they are more flexible than the supplied one.

chainsaw kits and packing lists
http://thechainsawkitguy.com
http://YouTube.com/c/the1chainsawguy

 

[MG porting]

Here's a question for you all, I built one of these late last year, and have been using it for milling on and off, I don't know how many tanks of fuel it has had through it, but it is safe to say it is run in.
when I was using it yesterday it had just finished its second tank of fuel of the morning half way through a cut, (you know you can tell when they are running low on fuel, so rather than let it stall I killed it like normal), filled it up again and it refused to start.
I gave up and put it back in the shed, I went out to it this afternoon, like normal one pull on choke it popped, knock the choke off another two pulls and it roars back to life.

Can anyone enlighten me as to why the hell it is doing this? so I can save some frustration.

Follow as Bedford T seed but run it again and if it does it again it could be a bad coil they get hot and if it's on it's way out that's what will happen.

 

[snake_2586]

Thanks for the responses, it does it when hot, does not matter if it is empty or not, I know what a flooded engine is like and that is not the problem.
The coil sound like a good candidate, I swapped the plug to see if made a difference and it did not, but turning to over with the plug out and it is only giving a dull orange spark, not a bright blue one like I would like to see, (must try it when cold).

 

[MG porting]

Thanks for the responses, it does it when hot, does not matter if it is empty or not, I know what a flooded engine is like and that is not the problem.
The coil sound like a good candidate, I swapped the plug to see if made a difference and it did not, but turning to over with the plug out and it is only giving a dull orange spark, not a bright blue one like I would like to see, (must try it when cold).

Yep most likely coil or a bad coil wire.

 

[ssm1699]

Well after reading all the pages, I ordered the kit on 8/6. It is currently in NY being processed by Customs. We will see how it goes when it finally gets here. I have wanted one, but never needed one. Well I needed a saw that is more than my MS390. The 390 pulled the 25" B&C Full Skip that I put on it, but complained a little. I know that I will have some more fairly big stuff to drop, coming up. So this will fit the bill for me.