Yep, they are, and in this instance I believe that it's the lack of the case cover bushing and my propensity to tighten things to the limit that allowed the right sized screw to be 1mm too long for the application...in other words I used the screws packaged for the case cover but chose to substitute a shorter one in it's place to keep a slight over tightening from creating the same condition again.
Huztl MS660
- Thread starter Kyler Monares
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Try replacing the fuel pickup hose with an oem hose
The Chinese one is N F G .
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My new 660 kits that came in last week have the countersunk holes for the tapered bar studs in the cover. Too bad the bar studs are not the new tapered style. My first kit did not have the countersunk holes but did have the tapered bars. I like the tapered studs.
Also, the kits were all missing three 5mm nuts for the bumper spikes. The quality of the cylinders looked very good. No major casting blemishes only a little filing the smooth the ports out a little. The quality of the parts seem to be the same as my first kit-good.
The first one I built was with the 56mm bore. I went without a cylinder gasket. It is a bear (impossible) to start without the decomp. The next one is 54mm with cylinder gasket. Much easier the start. The third one will be 54mm without gasket if squish works. I pretty sure it will work.
I voted in your poll, I built mine last fall (2015). 56mm big bore. Weimedog is right it is a beast.
Here it is. Only photo I had was when it was partially finished.Ok. I was just reporting what Google said. Names are not important. Davhul asked a good question and I thought a poll would be cleaner in the thread to collect answers to the question. It's interesting to have an idea how many people are in our "club"
I sure there are more. Maybe more folks will take the survey in the coming days.
Here again is the link
https://goo.gl/forms/b80SfAkF9iHlaK0j2
I sure there are more. Maybe more folks will take the survey in the coming days.
Here again is the link
https://goo.gl/forms/b80SfAkF9iHlaK0j2
I meant with the cylinder off. On my second kit the counter balance on the crank slightly hit the bottom of the piston at the bottom of the stroke.
You mean they are packaging them in a more organized manner? Did they have each pack labeled this time?
I had a 54mm like that. A little die grinder (or file work) will fix it. That particular saw has a solid year of use on it from a young fellow using it to block firewood.
I have never had a keyway shear. I put my flywheel nut on with a "butter fly" air wrench. I just let it "rattle" for a second or two. Usually enough. Have no idea what the torque actually is.
And I always use an OEM decomp now. I would like to plug them, just with my 56mm I can't pull it over fast enough when its cold without the decomp.
It's had to have been said a few times:
Use the following OEM parts:
Chain Adjuster Assembly, ALL of it.
Clutch Drum (Oregon or something better than AM)
OEM Rubber Seals for Gas & Oil caps
I use OEM pulse lines
Also swapped to a Walbro on my 56mm versions.
Also with the 56mm ALWAYS use a gasket. Also I have had to "trim" the ID of those base gaskets on one as the ID was too small. Those 56mm cylinders are going to have a little free port issue, like .010. That's because a 56mm piston won't fit down into the case so they just made them shorter. You take out the gasket that's now a .030 free port and will begin to matter. And I always use my tried and true three bond to augment the base gasket. Haven't had any leak issue yet. But also haven't sheared any key ways yet! Maybe things have changed since last year.
That's what I did but haven't finished it yet to check the running. I had to go about .025 so I'm not sure if that'll cause and running problems. That would be about like lowering the intake right. I already lowered it some with base gasket removed. I may pull some timing #'s.
Should be fine. Think about how much shorter a 56mm piston is! They run.
True. I didn't go far enough that there's any free porting But it's close. I may have that irregular idle that the 56 has. I'll see
13TreeWorks
ArboristSite Operative
Managed to get a full tank of cooch juice through the knock off today ..... that harvester bar and 404 don't seem to be slowing it down any ..... the carb has become more responsive to tuning was even starting to get pretty impressive till i ran out of fuel and daylight .... rat **** file job on the flywheel seems to be holding .... gonna take the decomp out and put the plug in it cuz decomp's are for *******. Need oem fuel caps cuz it looks like Mr katchup paid that **** a visit.... doubt the handle or the bar studs will hold up to that heavy ass harvester bar much longer ....anyone do any milling with one yet I got a 52" Alaskan I was thinking of strapping it on. Oh and I advanced the timing a gwido gash hair seems to have woken it up given its dead fish performance yesterday
I will have to remember I check this out on the rest of them. My first one with the 56mm bore had clearance. I never checked the 54mm that I just finished. I did some cutting with the 54mm yesterday. It runs very good, starts easily, and has good power. I have not checked the squish but it's probably over .035" with the base gasket.
The first kit had a white emblem on the top cover that said "MS 660". That last batch of kits does not have an emblem.
Wonder if it is alluminum or magnesium--fell off the deck----
try propane torch on case--Dad taught industrial arts--In small engine class kids brought lawn mowers etc. to fix. Dad kept alot of leftover stuff--In those days had some mowers had magnesium frames- he broke up into small peices. as a kid we use to light them up--BLINDING----Fun--still have a gallon can full--We keep stuff--My grandad,dad,myself,my son--Its a family tradition!!
