What I want to see is a couple of pics of that 1967 Vette, maybe a video.
Huztl MS660
- Thread starter Kyler Monares
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I HOPE that will retro! I have one right now with the Chinese adjuster I expected and it does have issues. If that's yet a better solution than just going OEM 660, that's a very good thing to know! I'll buy 6 of those gears right now.
I might run home when I take my lunch and grab my case. The OE 660 wouldn't work for me it would bind and try and strip. Thing is if it does work I will need to use the 660 and and the 880 kit. The other gear is to large in the 880 kit and can't be bought Separate.
I might run home when I take my lunch and grab my case. The OE 660 wouldn't work for me it would bind and try and strip. Thing is if it does work I will need to use the 660 and and the 880 kit. The other gear is to large in the 880 kit and can't be bought Separate.
The pitch looks pretty close. Maybe some machine work on the gear in the pic to cut it down might e another approach? Or is the diameter just too large.
I would like to figure a way to even use the AM stuff....certainly have enough of them around! Maybe shim the slot in the case? Take a "nut" & cut it way down to shim the one side, grind the threads out to a smooth "curved" bearing surface & epoxy it in? Stuck together a saw this weekend for a "bling" saw...fun and games. Only have the Chinese adjusters & would like to come up with a solution for that stuff too...if its even possible.
I've built 6 Huztl 660's and have one more waiting for a Huztl 56mm P&C to finish it off. I have also put together a Huztl 365/372 parts kit with a BB cylinder on it. I found the 660's much easier to work on and better quality than the 365/372. A couple of saws have a few tanks through them in wood and the others have just been broken in not in wood. I have other OEM Stihl (440, 044, 361, 362) and Husqvarna (365, 575) and the Huztl kits perform quite well against OEM. I have used all aftermarket parts on the saws. All of the saws except one 54mm 660 do not have a base gasket on the cylinder.
I really enjoy building these saws. I do touch up the ports just to remove casting boogers. The chain adjusters are not the greatest but they do work well enough if you are careful. I do grease them well and work them from one end to the other during the install. I find that the throttle linkage binds in the little rubber boot it travel through until a lube it. The high idle position on the ignition / choke level does not seem to do anything on my 660 kits. Some of my kits came with tapered bar studs and some came with non-tapered. The non-tapered have a very narrow step where the bar sits and I find it difficult to keep the bar in position when tightening the nuts.
All of my cases were assembled with heat on the cases and frozen cranks. I evolved to preheating the oven to 270F and then setting the case halves in for 20 minutes. Most of the cranks when it with very little force. I used the case bolts to pull the case halves together. I also left the crank seals in place when I assembled. I made sure to turn the crank as the halves went together. All the kits had the three M5 nuts missing for the bumper spikes. I also had two carbs that arrived with bent high adjuster screws. There has been a couple other missing pieces that Huztl replaced or sent me after I pointed them out. It does take a few weeks to get the replacement parts.
I am looking for other kits to assemble now. I have a Stihl OEM 361, 034, 362 and Husqvarna OEM 365, 575. I have done my share of rebuilds on toasted top ends and I always keep my eyes open for more.
Does anyone know other options for build kit saws?
I really enjoy building these saws. I do touch up the ports just to remove casting boogers. The chain adjusters are not the greatest but they do work well enough if you are careful. I do grease them well and work them from one end to the other during the install. I find that the throttle linkage binds in the little rubber boot it travel through until a lube it. The high idle position on the ignition / choke level does not seem to do anything on my 660 kits. Some of my kits came with tapered bar studs and some came with non-tapered. The non-tapered have a very narrow step where the bar sits and I find it difficult to keep the bar in position when tightening the nuts.
All of my cases were assembled with heat on the cases and frozen cranks. I evolved to preheating the oven to 270F and then setting the case halves in for 20 minutes. Most of the cranks when it with very little force. I used the case bolts to pull the case halves together. I also left the crank seals in place when I assembled. I made sure to turn the crank as the halves went together. All the kits had the three M5 nuts missing for the bumper spikes. I also had two carbs that arrived with bent high adjuster screws. There has been a couple other missing pieces that Huztl replaced or sent me after I pointed them out. It does take a few weeks to get the replacement parts.
I am looking for other kits to assemble now. I have a Stihl OEM 361, 034, 362 and Husqvarna OEM 365, 575. I have done my share of rebuilds on toasted top ends and I always keep my eyes open for more.
Does anyone know other options for build kit saws?
The 880 gear in the last pic has larger threads and gear. I'll lay it in there just in case but I'm pretty sure I'll use the the 660 screw gear and 880 spur gear.
I have another idea on maybe making the OE 660 kit work but would be drilling a 1/16 or smaller hole for a hardened pin. But that's last resort.
I have another idea on maybe making the OE 660 kit work but would be drilling a 1/16 or smaller hole for a hardened pin. But that's last resort.
"Bling saw"
Ok the 880 gear is a little to large by a few thousands. So I scrapped that idea and Instead I made some bushings with the inside and outside diameter that I needed to use the OE gears and cut them 2.5mm long
Very nice.
That's pretty impressive for a budget build! I'll have to look into that intake kit. If it were me I would look into running a shorter K&N style filter, a lot sturdier and you can get them in any ID/OD and length you could ever imagine. Pretty cheap on Amazon or Ebay thanks to the Chinese! I run them on all my 2 stroke bikes and quads. You can get or make a foam pre filter as well. Could probably even gut the stock housing and make it work.
I used this size brass tubing. I ended up making about 10 but I don't need but 3 so I'm good on them for a while. If ever
The fit is about a exact fit. I'm not sure why the casting is so wrong on this part and was never corrected. I guess you can call this the first
TSB-Huztl660-001 do it your self update. I'm going to do the update to the two saws being used in the next week.
TSB-Huztl660-001 do it your self update. I'm going to do the update to the two saws being used in the next week.
And I picked it up LEGO. Honestly, I did not expect such good quality parts ...
The remains of many rubber products (put in duplicate).
The only thing that put OEM - Piston bearing (were bad cases of the bearing 372). Much of the information acquired from the channel afleetcommand. Thank weimedog.
Assembled with 56mm cylinder, cylinder gasket 0.5 mm. Freeport is practically no. Slightly modified muffler. Install used husqvarna decomp. The bar cover had drilled holes for studs drill 12 mm.
Run it, but without bar (dark early). Tomorrow I will try to make a video of cutting
The remains of many rubber products (put in duplicate).
The only thing that put OEM - Piston bearing (were bad cases of the bearing 372). Much of the information acquired from the channel afleetcommand. Thank weimedog.
Assembled with 56mm cylinder, cylinder gasket 0.5 mm. Freeport is practically no. Slightly modified muffler. Install used husqvarna decomp. The bar cover had drilled holes for studs drill 12 mm.
Run it, but without bar (dark early). Tomorrow I will try to make a video of cutting
You'll have fun cleaning saw dust and chips out of that filter.That's pretty impressive for a budget build! I'll have to look into that intake kit. If it were me I would look into running a shorter K&N style filter, a lot sturdier and you can get them in any ID/OD and length you could ever imagine. Pretty cheap on Amazon or Ebay thanks to the Chinese! I run them on all my 2 stroke bikes and quads. You can get or make a foam pre filter as well. Could probably even gut the stock housing and make it work.
I don't like K&N in my personal off road racing experience. Think about it. Air doesn't flow through oil it has to find a hole in the cotton Gauze and the oil suppose to catch the debris. But some makes it through
That's not how I'd define fun...but we're each different in our definitions...
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