The guy who runs the saw, just changed the springs and saw more work. don't know, maybe he's a little tuned carb
Huztl MS660
- Thread starter Kyler Monares
- Start date
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Racr350
ArboristSite Lurker
Thats quite an operation. That tracked skidder reminds me a lot of the groomers they use on the snowmobile trails here in the U.S. Pretty cool to see one of these saws doing real time work.
the design of these tractors virtually unchanged for 50 years...
this technique is simple, reliable and repaired "on the stump" in the woods...
I'm gonna post this here, because I think its relevant. I've only read 28 pages so far, and it seems like people were struggling with the case halves.
Pop the seals out peoples... put the crank in like this
No press needed. You can DIY the crank tool that helps you pull the crank through the bearings.
I know Walt has a lot of vids on this 660 saw, but I can do a bolt for bolt vid.... just have to convince a few guys to pitch in $$ for it. I'll build it up, and then give it away to a deserving member.
Pop the seals out peoples... put the crank in like this
No press needed. You can DIY the crank tool that helps you pull the crank through the bearings.
I know Walt has a lot of vids on this 660 saw, but I can do a bolt for bolt vid.... just have to convince a few guys to pitch in $$ for it. I'll build it up, and then give it away to a deserving member.
Johnnybar
ArboristSite Guru
Used this method for decades by stacking washers and sockets as needed on saws and anything that has internal or external threads on the end of the shaft. A little oil or HP grease never hurts either especially when aluminum or mag is involved.
I wanted something that was cheap and easily accessible to even hobbiests. This particular issue is not easily solved....but with a little elbow grease I have a new tool!. Now gotta start making these double ended....pto on one side....flywheel on the other.
Johnnybar
ArboristSite Guru
I've used the shaft threads only too. Just have to be careful to catch a few threads before it starts pressing...easy enough to adjust with washers. I horseshoed some washers so the nut did not have to be removed to increase the pull. If you are going to make them for sale, I would suggest fine threads as they increase the pull force with the same wrench pressure.
Finer threads would be nice...but this is what is easily available at home improvement stores.
Not planning on selling it...everyone is welcome to copy my design
Not planning on selling it...everyone is welcome to copy my design
Hello everyone,
New member here and first post. I have been following this thread and have decided to order a 660 kit. I will share information as I receive, review, and assemble the kit. This is NOT a main saw for me, I have others. I teach shop at a local high school, so tweaking and problem solving is a normal process for me. I have a great dealer base around me as well in case I need/wish to use OEM parts. Al
New member here and first post. I have been following this thread and have decided to order a 660 kit. I will share information as I receive, review, and assemble the kit. This is NOT a main saw for me, I have others. I teach shop at a local high school, so tweaking and problem solving is a normal process for me. I have a great dealer base around me as well in case I need/wish to use OEM parts. Al
Welcome Al
I just ordered a 660 kit myself. With a pile of extra goodies. I really think is makes more sense to order other parts in addition to the kit... makes the shipping charge more worthwhile. I typically don't do stihl stuff, but since this kit is so popular, I'm going to do a bolt for bolt video on how to put it together. Likely gonna be another boring one, but hopefully it'll be complete.
I just ordered a 660 kit myself. With a pile of extra goodies. I really think is makes more sense to order other parts in addition to the kit... makes the shipping charge more worthwhile. I typically don't do stihl stuff, but since this kit is so popular, I'm going to do a bolt for bolt video on how to put it together. Likely gonna be another boring one, but hopefully it'll be complete.
Has anyone else had a problem with the pull rope getting chewed up? I'm gonna pick some more cord up tomorrow. I suspect the bushing is flawed or has a bur. Mine ran like a boss for a bit after I finally got the carb tuned, cut hardwood like butter. But I stuck it in a smaller log and the saw threw said log at me, and I pulled it up real quick and killed it. Haven't been able to restart it because the rope is so chewed up it's binding up every other pull.
Just for completeness sake....if anyone is going to try pulling the crank through the bearing like I showed in my vid...the flywheel nut on a 660 is m10x1.0... I think. This is an odd odd odd size and doesn't come in a normal tap and die set. But but but....my set has a 1/8" npt tap that will work!
Stihlofadeal64
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looking forward to seeing the Cross Performance on the TUBE. If I decide to build one of these I believe that may be the combination I choose for the cylinder.
Here's an 1/8" npt tap working for m10x1 on a 394 ... should be same on a ms660 ....
Johnnybar
ArboristSite Guru
Should be ok for a few threads to engage since they are 1.06 mm pitch with a little slop built in for manufacturing tolerance.
yeah, it seems to go in just fine, would nice to run that tap in a little further... final drill size was 11/32" ...but I think it could have been 23/64" to make tapping a tad easier. I ruined my tap holder...now I gotta make new of that....
anyone know the pto side ms660 clutch thread pitch and size?
Johnnybar
ArboristSite Guru
A set of calipers should get you there. The OD of the threads may be slightly undersized...you might measure 9.9 mm for a 10mm thread. You can then measure 4-5 threads and divide for the pitch.
M12 x 1.25 if I'm seeing straight
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