hydro pump for log splitter

[A.E. Metal Werx]

well guys i am in the process of building a splitter.. my question is. i have a 6.5hp engine and im trying to figure out what pump to get. a 13gpm or a 11gpm. the 13 says that it needs 6hp to run it and the 11 says a 5ph to run. i would like to run the 13 but am affrade that i will be working my engine a good amount more then i would be with the 11... what are your thoughts?

 

[gtstang462002]

I run an 11GPM on 3.5HP

 

[SWI Don]

I'd do the 13 gpm if I had that size engine. Unless it's a used engine and half worn out, use it to it's potential. Less waiting.

Don

 

[A.E. Metal Werx]

so what i am hearing is that i should be in the clear to run the 13. wont bog the engine down as much as im thinking.. would it run just like the 11 but faster? i just dont want to get in a stubbern log and the engine bogs because im uning thr 13 insted of the 11.. thanks guys

 

[wkpoor]

Don't forget most wood splits on just a couple hundred PSI.

 

[A.E. Metal Werx]

yeah i found that out today while at work. i asked one of our engineers. that deals will hydraulics and he started going on with numbers and formulas and all that. me being a welder was like ahh...... show me a picture and i will figure it out. but the question still is.... will i be golden with the 13 or go with the 11?

 

[SWI Don]

The 11gpm and 13gpm have the same size high pressure side so the load when splitting a "tough one" on the engine is the same. The 13 gpm has a .647 cu. in. low pressure stage vs a .517 cu. in. low pressure stage on the 11 gpm.

Don

 

[kevin j]

adding to don's post:
the high pressure, low speed side is the same hp for both pumps.
The unloading pressure of the large side is adjustable by the screw on the side. So you can adjust it to take 13 gpm to whatever pressure the engine will pull.

go with the 13 and adjust it as necessary.
My biggest frustration with all the splitters I have used is very rarely force, it is speed. Faster is better.

k

 

[nickblaze466]

i haven't researched too much into pumps lately but aren't most if not all barnes pumps the same gpm on the high pressure side, more or less?

so a 22gpm pump will get you to the log faster but once it shifts down into low the speed is basically the same as the 11gpm pump?

 

[milkie62]

You will have no problems with the 6.5 and 13gpm pump.The spped of the sysytem is in the gpm and rpm of the motor.I am running a 11 gpm pump with a 8 hp briggs at an idle but it is slow.But there is alot less noise.My psi guage will peak with stringy elm and oak at 1100 psi.Straight grained wood will only take 200 psi or so as previously stated.I have a Northern Tool splitter design book that really helps out.I basically copied a Northern splitter when I built mine.Overall though you cannot really build a splitter for less than you can buy a Northern splitter for.I got super deals on the motor,valve,and pump.All the steel and welding was free.The axle,tires and wheels were free.The hoses were free.8 hp Briggs motor--new--$160.00,11 gpm pump $50,Valve $50,4x24 cylinder $130,pump bracket--$40,trailer hitch and jack--$35,6"x 96" H beam $25,odds and ends about $50. So with the few parts I bought NEW at big discounts still cost me close to $600.You need filter,strainer,tank,wedge,etc.It could easily cost $1000.00 plus to build a REASONABLE splitter.And if you are not a good welder,IT WILL BREAK.....

 

[PA Plumber]

adding to don's post:
the high pressure, low speed side is the same hp for both pumps.
The unloading pressure of the large side is adjustable by the screw on the side. So you can adjust it to take 13 gpm to whatever pressure the engine will pull.

go with the 13 and adjust it as necessary.
My biggest frustration with all the splitters I have used is very rarely force, it is speed. Faster is better.

k

I have a 5.5 Honda w/ an 11gpm pump.

Does this mean I could change the setting at which the pump kicks into the lower "gear" to improve speed?

It seems like the motor isn't even working hard when the pump goes into the second stage.

And... this splitter will not outrun a snail!

 

[kevin j]

I could change the setting at which the pump kicks into the lower "gear" to improve speed?



Should be adjustable. There may be a cap over the adjusting screw and jam nut, depending on pump. Get a pressure gauge in the circuit just for reference. Best way is with a flow meter and needle/load valve, but assuming no on e has that, here is the cheap & dirty way.

Set the high pressure prelief valve (in the manual in/out lever valve) first. Stall the cylinder at end of stroke, and set the RV to 2500 psi or as much as the engine can take if lower than that.

Then adjust the unloading pressure. Can't really read that on a gauge because the pressure will only be 100-200 psi to extend the cylinder empty. They when it stalls, the pressure rises so fast it unloads and goes across the RV almost immediately.

Just split wood with it and see how how the pressure seems to go when it unloads. Turn the pump unloading adjusting screw CW, in, a bit, say 1/4 turn. Split some more wood. At some point in the trial and error you will find it bogging the engine just before unloading. Back up a bit from there and it will be at maximum setting for your engine hp.

k

 

[barkies]

hey plumber

some people say not to mess with the unloader valve but i have a press gauge on mine and I set it around 800 psi before it kicks into low I have a 6.5 briggs and it runs a 13 gpm fine

 

[PA Plumber]

I could change the setting at which the pump kicks into the lower "gear" to improve speed?



Should be adjustable. There may be a cap over the adjusting screw and jam nut, depending on pump. Get a pressure gauge in the circuit just for reference. Best way is with a flow meter and needle/load valve, but assuming no on e has that, here is the cheap & dirty way.

Set the high pressure prelief valve (in the manual in/out lever valve) first. Stall the cylinder at end of stroke, and set the RV to 2500 psi or as much as the engine can take if lower than that.

Then adjust the unloading pressure. Can't really read that on a gauge because the pressure will only be 100-200 psi to extend the cylinder empty. They when it stalls, the pressure rises so fast it unloads and goes across the RV almost immediately.

Just split wood with it and see how how the pressure seems to go when it unloads. Turn the pump unloading adjusting screw CW, in, a bit, say 1/4 turn. Split some more wood. At some point in the trial and error you will find it bogging the engine just before unloading. Back up a bit from there and it will be at maximum setting for your engine hp.

k

hey plumber

some people say not to mess with the unloader valve but i have a press gauge on mine and I set it around 800 psi before it kicks into low I have a 6.5 briggs and it runs a 13 gpm fine

This stuff is "Italian" to me.

Following are some pics. The heavy duty plastic straps are "insurance." When I first got the splitter, it had the wrong hydraulic fitting on it and it blew off twice. Once I figured out it was NPT, I haven't had any trouble with it.

From these pics, can you tell if this is an adjustable valve?

Thanks...

 

[kevin j]

can't tell from pics
if it is a haldex pump, the unloader is adjustable.
More significantly, it appears not to have any relief valve in the spool valve???? got to be one somewhere there as it would go poof first time the cyld bottomed otherwise.
is there one in line somewhere?

I will be off a few days possibly.
k

 

[SWI Don]

Not all Barnes pumps have the same high pressure side. The 11 & 13 gpm have the same high side. The 16 gpm has a 32% larger high side. The 22 and 28 gpm pumps are based on a different body and have a 2.4 times larger high side.

http://www.hbus.haldex.com/resources/documents/hi_lo_pg_rev1203.pdf

Here is a document on the two stage pumps.

Don