I am in need of help with ms660

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I totally agree pantelis and it went against every instinct I know. But I did it anyway. I'm thinking about putting it back together with the new parts and sell it for at least half of a new 660, I'd love a 880 And tell the buyer everything I know. I will get it running good and all
 
I totally agree pantelis and it went against every instinct I know. But I did it anyway. I'm thinking about putting it back together with the new parts and sell it for at least half of a new 660, I'd love a 880 And tell the buyer everything I know. I will get it running good and all
Look my friend the chainsaws are not milling machines maybe they can mill a little but its not their jobs , its like to put 1000 kilos in your back and want to run, start from this and you understand, and dont believe all this ******** about some stupids making just for full theirs pockets i speak for the alaskan milling and many others.
i wish you to buy a band saw as soon as you can :)
 
Back to original question, I'd run it, I've ran worse, I'll do it again.

As long as the new bearing fits snug without excessive slop, and the pin rotates freely, it will be fine, otherwise you would be better off getting a new saw, crank assemblies are not in any way cheap, but if you the piston and cylinder are still usable it may be ok.

As far as the bearing cage goes I could have sworn the stihl cages were brass? But I've never looked real close at em, just toss em together and get back to sawing.
 
I will know at the end of the week when stihl gets my parts in. I'm going with the aftermarket cylinder and piston. but everything else I will use oem.
 
I agree..if the new bearing fits in smooth run it. I would check my top speed rpm with the tach at the end of the rebuild and maybe slow it down a bit. I slow mine down some when milling because the saw is running wide open for so long. Won't hurt to richen it up some anyway on the H screw.
 
The H screw...fatten it up by turning it out some. 11k rpm is a good starting point, but you may have to play with it a little if you start dropping off power in the cut or it starts to 4 stroke on you.
 
That do be a lovely shade of blue! I can't help but think it looks a lot like Dykem Blue, the newfangled replacement for Prussian blue that is commonly used in machine shops to make markings show up better or is sometimes used to check contact between two parts. Are you sure all of that is heat blue or could some of that on the rod be painted on? Dykem is more thin like an ink than thicker like a paint when it is fresh. Could be lighting or camera settings but somehow that doesn't all look like heat bluing on my computer. Could the last person in the engine have left some Dykem behind and things aren't quite as bad as they look. Could just be computer screen too though.

Hu





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Where do I find a tach to hook up to my chainsaw. I've always adjusted my 2 strokes by ear. But I know a chainsaw sees a lot of wide open use. Not like any other 2-stroke does.
 
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