BlueRidgeMark,
Good to hear you finally got taken care! Sorry it was such an ordeal with service. We are trying to organize a dealer network to reduce the lack of communication between service centers, the selling dealer and ourselves.
Yeah, I got the impression that they just had never done one before, and had no clue what to do, so they did nothing. It was great to have you guys call and coach them a bit.
Always like to hear suggestions like yours because they come from people who really use the splitters! An hour meter is an idea that we may see in 2009 & I have forwarded your ideas along to R&D for consideration.
Great!
Quick question. I thought you might be able to help me with something; we have come up (finally) with a four way wedge that sleeves on to the existing wedge. It is intended for soft versus hard wood. You wouldn't happen to have an idea where we might get a chart that shows the relative hardness of wood, would you?
Uh, sorry, no clue on that. A BTU chart, as suggested, would get you into the ballpark, I think. But hardness isn't the only factor, and maybe not even the biggest factor. Grain has a lot to do with it, too. That gnarly old oak that bent my plate is easy to split, when I'm working straight grained pieces, even though it's hard as nails. I'd think a 4-way would work just fine on it. With the regular wedge, I had it popping before I was halfway through it.
The crotches are another matter!
Then, too, some wood is just very stringy (elm, locust) and holds on tightly (straight grain or not!), even though it's not as hard as oak.
I think you should consider getting some different species and trying them out, rather than relying only on hardness to guide you.
OR, publish a guide and discuss all the factors that make a wood either difficult or eazy to split, without trying to say
this wood is suitable for the 4-way, and
that wood is not.