I broke down and bought a new chainsaw

[2Coilinveins]

I've got a Poulan very similar to yours, though the next step up. I'll admit,(gonna get blasted for this) I like the little Poulans. Good balance, feels nice, light weight. Great for small stuff. I find them at garage sales at the beginning of summer for $5, all they usually need is a new chain, some air cleaner service, and tuning.

My starting procedure:

Push primer bulb ONCE
Set choke, pull until saw coughs (usually twice)
Turn off choke, set high idle, it always fires on the next pull

High idle on your saw is the thumb lever above the throttle safety. Open the throttle completely, then push down on the thumb lever, and release the throttle. High idle is set, and will remain so until you touch the throttle again. If your saw is different, and you don't have that thumb lever, your high idle is part of the choke knob. Pulling the blue choke knob out and pushing it back in sets the high idle. Again, high idle will turn off as soon as you touch the throttle. If the saw is hot, don't set high idle, don't prime, just pull the cord.

My Poulan's chain brake often sets itself if I don't put the saw down gently. You might check under the clutch cover and make sure it's not just jammed up with chips and shavings.

Edit:

Make sure your cooling fins are clear, too.

 

[Lawn Masters]

I seem to recall something like this awhile back, does it make a rattling noise while running? I recall someone on a different forum, had an 066, that part of the sparkplug broke off, and ruined the cylinder.

 

[TonyM]

I had a poulan in the shop that absolutely refused to start. There seemed to be nothing aparrantley wrong, but you could crank and crank and crank, and it would sputter a little, and nothing. I turned up the idle speed screw on the carb and it started fine. I'm going to guess:

A. The fast idles is the type mentioned above and requires a seperate motion of the thumb to set it.

B. Since you don't know about the fast idle, you have not been using it, and since the fast idle is not tied to the choke, you are not even using it on cold starts.

C. The idle speed is set just low enough that the saw will not start once it is warmed up a little, and probably will not idle on it's own either.

Find the idle speed adjustment screw on the carb. Turn it in a turn or two. Start the saw. (Be careful as the chain is likely to spin at this point). If the saw is not idling a bit fast, turn the idle speed screw in until it starts to rev a little. Find the low speed (L) adjustment on the carb. With the saw idling fast, turn the screw out until it stops (the screw) or the RPMs start to drop. Then turn the screw in until it stops or the RPMs start to climb. Set it in the middle of the two extremes. If the RPMs never started to drop, then just turn the screw full out against the limiters.

After setting the Low Speed (L) adjustment, turn the idle speed screw out until the chain stops turning.

Now quickly open the throttle. The engine should pick up speed quickly and cleanly. If the engine hesitates, you may need to turn the L out more. If the engine loads up and coughs and smokes, you may need to turn the L in more. By more I mean 1/8 turn increments.

Now hold the saw wide open for a few seconds out of the cut. It should not run smoothly. It should four stroke or blubber a little. If it is not, turn the high speed adjustment (H) out until it starts to blubber. You can do this by making a small adjustment, then reving it for a few seconds, and repeating until it blubbers. If it is blubbering already, turn the H screw in until it runs smoothly, and then back it out from there.

Now, with a sharp chain, make a cut. Start by reving the saw out of the wood. It should four stoke. Then with the saw still wide open, start into the cut. The motor should smooth out and pull nicely. If it is still blubbering a little, a you may need to turn the H screw in a little and try again, but only if your using a sharp chain. You need to load the motor.

Now recheck the idle speed and low speed adjustments.

Next time you cut for an extended period and have the saw warm, repeat everything above on the fully warmed up saw.

 

[TonyM]

Looked at the model you bought. It is the same one I had in the shop that refused to start. And yes, the fast idle lock is on the back of the rear handle. Pull the trigger in, and then use your thumb to pull back and push down on the tab that sticks out of the back of the handle. While holding pressure with your thumb, release the trigger. Then let go with your thumb. Blip the trigger to release the lock. If you lock/unlock it several times without trying to start it, you'll see how it works.

 

[PWB]

Lots of good advice. FYI, (americans) Canadian Tire is a old brand name store kind of like walmart, but with much more of a hardware store / auto supply / tool store slant. They actually sell a lot of lifetime warrantee hand tools etc. THey used to sell Makita saws (Dolmar) but like everyone else has o compete on price, and cheap saws sell better in that market.

 

[2Coilinveins]

The carb adjustment limiters on that saw have to be removed before any adjustments can be made. They don't engage the adjustment screws on the carburetor at all and make no difference to the actual settings. If you do pull the limiters, stash them somewhere. If you need warranty work(ahem), put them back in before you take the saw back to the store.

 

[buck futter]

Tony I think you nailed it

I have seen weedwackers and a bunch of chainsaws not want to warm start, give the idle screw half a turn and pow. I think that is a big part of the problem but more than likely the carb is just not quite right overall. As far as the saw quitting after running the only saw I have seen do the exact same thing as you are taking about was also made by elux, it wasn't a $100 poulan it was a $400 husky 254. It would eat would like a monster and just quite like you hit the kill switch the dealer replace the ignition twice and it was doing it again and then some bast#$$ got what he deserved when he stole the saw. Anyway make sure you let us know how you make out, Also if you are not 100% on how to adjust your carb either have your friend do it, or go to a local shop and see if they would tune it for you. It doesn't take long if you know what your doing so they may not charge much.

Best of luck

Lucky

 

[TrogL]

does it make a rattling noise while running?

Nope. Sounds perfect when it's running. I've been cutting like mad. I cut down two large trees (with some help from some friends) and chopped them up and my back yard is full of firewood, chips and sawdust. I doubt it would run long with a busted sparkplug.

 

[TrogL]

II think that is a big part of the problem but more than likely the carb is just not quite right overall.
Lucky

Any chance it's altitude? Edmonton's not exactly sea level. Maybe it needs to be a bit leaner.

 

[medcave]

It would eat would like a monster and just quite like you hit the kill switch the dealer replace the ignition twice
Lucky

That's what has me bugged about this case. Why is it dying and is it losing fuel or spark when it does? Do any of you small engine mechanics use a spark tester?

http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=207

That will let you watch the spark as it's running and be able to see if it's still sparking or not as it's dying.

 

[andrethegiant70]

The loud "click" as the saw dies is interesting. I have two saws that, as I shut them down, engage the starter pawls rather loudly, which seems normal enough. Possibly this is what the gentleman is hearing and it is NOT diagnostic of why the chainsaw quit in the first place. The man's Homelite probably went "cathunk!" and this saw is so petite it might just sound like a "click" in comparison.

 

[andrethegiant70]

Oh, thanks for the thread, Trog, sounds like these guys needed a little riling up!

 

[TonyM]

I agree with the starter pawls engaging. Especially combined with the low idle speed.

 

[buck futter]

if a engine dies because of a fuel issue it will act up most of the time, it will bog or race, if it losses spark it just stops, at least thats my train of thought.

Lucky

 

[whatsnext]

Any chance it's altitude? Edmonton's not exactly sea level. Maybe it needs to be a bit leaner.

Not likely as you have already told us the the saw, when running, is powerful and does not smoke. If it's getting too hot richening things may be a better first guess. Running too lean is always a bad thing. Running too rich only fouls plugs.
John

 

[tony marks]

i ll say this as tactfully as i can. u got what u paid for. luckyly u can probably take it back an get your money. then spend a few bucks more down the aisle at the husquevarnas. then u got something that is probably gonna be usable an not keep u working on it all the time.this was my experience . the only way id take one of the green saws ,is if somebody else wanted it.now this was my input from my experience with poulan green. i final;ly found another 028 [mine had been stolen] and i learned a lesson.
no offence to those who just love their poulans. i just dont think much ofum

 

[spacemule]

Anyone who comes onto a forum, asks for advice, and then blasts everyone who helps in their second post is either an idiot or a troll. Why are you guys bothering? "I was pushing pretty hard." You've already crapped your chain out then and you're overworking the poor little saw. You never push the chain, it should nearly pull itself through the cut. My vote's on the former choice.

 

[geofore]

One time it died while idling. I tend to "rev" it every few seconds as I've seen others do. Not sure if that helps or if it's just part of the culture.

This says a lot. Just because you see/hear others "rev" it every few seconds does not mean they know what they are doing. IT MEANS their saw is not tuned to idle properly and they DO NOT know how to adjust the idle/tune the saw. You should not have to "rev" the saw until the moment before the saw touches wood to keep it running.
You don't chop a tree up unless you have an AXE, are you swinging the saw like an AXE at the wood? A light touch to the wood and the chain should pull itself through the wood. If your saw is leaving sawdust in the lawn the chain is dull and needs touched up, it should be throwing nice flakes if the chain is sharp and take a light touch to the wood to get the flakes flying.
Find someone who knows how to adjust the carb to help you. Then the click you hear when the inertia chain brake sets will not stop the saw from running but will stop the chain from spinning. Only then can we discuss how two 6mm holes properly placed in the muffler will improve the way the saw runs.
If you are set on fixxing the saw and not returning it, get someone that knows how to tune the saw show you how it is done.
If all else fails, READ THE MANUAL!

 

[bassman]

just my 2 cents here

now i have been down the i am just gonna use it once or twice a year road and own some entry level stuff also .
what i find with entry level is that they leave out quality controll and just sell you a saw.
you may have a bad unit and also being in canadian tire land i take full advantage of there return policy.
i also have done the old use it for the long weekend and hit the tuesday return line thing.
i say take it back and get another saw .
if you still want to learn how to fix small engines try a pawn shop saw as you sound like spending 500 on a good saw is out.
i got 6 saws at my local pawn shop for 50 bucks.
all but one was fixable.
i learned alot and really pissed of my local small engine guy.
we are good now and he even keeps his old stuff for me to buy.
but back to your saw..... go get a new one .

good luck

shayne

 

[Cut4fun]

I looked at the saw he was talking about at wallyworld today. I see why he couldnt find the half throttle button to start ir with. There was none that I could find. Dont care for the design of the choke, and on/off button all working together either. Like the way it was, separate buttons doing their own thing. Not combined duties. Hope all saws are not doing this.