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How it looks and the problems it can cause like the chain getting tight. Also replace the chain when replacing the sprocket.
Gotcha. I've spun a couple, seems like they start chewing up the drive teeth on the chain before they go? I've always just knocked that edge down with a flat file and keep running them if they don't chew up too bad.
 
Learn how to sharpen the chain and make it habit to keep it sharp in your spare time so that it is always ready to go.

Make a dry storage wood shed to keep the rain/snow off of your wood, I still have not made my self do this one and find myself dragging out to pull the tarp over every time it rains.
my woodshed holds about 7 cord. I've divided it into halves. i burn about 2.5-3 cord a year here and southern Maryland. i have one side for now, the other for next year. also have refill cut last summer stacked outside waiting to go in the empty half....well, it will be soon.
 
On a lot of saws that I have the muffler removed I just insert a wooden handle from a small wire brush into the exhaust port. Works very well as a piston stop and doesn't harm the piston or cylinder.
I saw one that looked like someone used a steel rod in the exhaust port - not good.
 
On a lot of saws that I have the muffler removed I just insert a wooden handle from a small wire brush into the exhaust port. Works very well as a piston stop and doesn't harm the piston or cylinder.
I think that I like rope better as it evens out the force on the piston ring land. Too much concentrated force from a solid object (even wood) on the ring land may bend/crack it.
 
I think that I like rope better as it evens out the force on the piston ring land. Too much concentrated force from a solid object (even wood) on the ring land may bend/crack it.
Rope guy myself- just get the piston high enough so you don't get it stuck in a port- only did that once- and stuff in as much clean start chord as will fit- those silly screw into the plug hole should be banned imo
 
Just starting learn how to properly fell trees when I was beginning I did some sketchy stuff before I really learned. Watch some videos find the good ones learn and improve your abilities. 2nd I wish I had known how to tune a saw. I dealt with a improperly tuned saw the first 8 years of firewood cutting. Then when inlearned how to tune and got it running great I pushed it too far and leaned the mixture to far and blew it up tring to make a 40cc saw run like a 45. Learn to hand file a chain for at least field use. And lastly run from this site before you catch CAD its very contagious and will leave you with numerous too many chainsaws.
 
Just starting learn how to properly fell trees when I was beginning I did some sketchy stuff before I really learned. Watch some videos find the good ones learn and improve your abilities. 2nd I wish I had known how to tune a saw. I dealt with a improperly tuned saw the first 8 years of firewood cutting. Then when inlearned how to tune and got it running great I pushed it too far and leaned the mixture to far and blew it up tring to make a 40cc saw run like a 45. Learn to hand file a chain for at least field use. And lastly run from this site before you catch CAD its very contagious and will leave you with numerous too many chainsaws.
No need to do tree work to get wood.
 
If you want more power learn the chain first and master that. If you want more grunt advance the ignition timing to 30° BTDC. You'll figure it out pretty quickly. If your lazy like us old timers we check it with the degree wheel during inspection or taredown before the crank comes out. You can also use a standard igntion timing light with marks for zero TDC or degree marks so you don't need and inductive advace light with a dial. 029S is the best port timing numbers with the most wandering ignition timing advance I've ever found in those with a 46mm bore. Some are 23° some are 28° spec is 26° BTDC
And yeah on these tough old heavy low compression turds it matters.

Rage on.
Air inlet is your next update 😉
 
Stick with the 20" 050 b&c for ease of parts. It also has less kickback on the nose verses shorter lighter bars. Master it so your on a standard setup each time. You'll find that nasty flatspot they get on the tail. Just take the edges off there.
 
Check to see if your chain and bar are the same gauge. If it is not sometimes it will tighten up when it warms up and your engine will have trouble turning it. It's hard to tell by looking, you usually have to measure unless it is printed on the bar.
 
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