I just did the fuel and impulse lines on both an 024 and an 026. I got it done with a pair of pliers with finer jaws than those shown above, but just barely. Large hemostats would have been much better. The fuel lines were easy; the impulse on the 024, not too bad. But the impulse on the 026 was just barely possible with pliers and luck.
I found one! Almost..Part 2- ohhh26
- Thread starter dav2no1
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Well damn! I did just see another thread on here that said similar to what you said. I looked and thought it might work..has valve on hose end.
Someone in the other thread suggested this one. Think that thread was pretty old..like 2014.. is this still a good option or can anyone suggest other options?
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-5605-Del...FSXI/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_2_2?tag=forumyield-20
Try it before returning it. Mine didn't come with the valve core and I still have hopes for it once I get a core with the proper spring. My set is Harbor Freight p/n 62638.
Well crap..too late..took it back today. And that was the same model number
There are different valve cores for testing the compression on 2 cycles
Save your money. Internal inspection is what matters.
This one seems pretty cheap..saw others say it's a good one..
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20250-...isle+compression+tester&qid=1736878722&sr=8-1
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20250-...isle+compression+tester&qid=1736878722&sr=8-1
the point others have made repeatedly, if you're going to get a compression gauge for chainsaws, get one made for small 2 stroke engines, not cars. the Echo one I posted above is the one Johnny Walker uses and recommends. he seems to know what he's doing. supposedly, the valve springs in auto gauges is too strong for accurate readings on chainsaws. just what I've read over and over.
Someone else also made the point that as long as the piston is good and I'm doing vacuum and pressure check, that I don't really need to check compression. If the saw runs and idles, then should be good. I'm kinda leaning towards that theory and save some money for now. I'm not in business, I'm just tinkering.
You don`t really need a compression tester, a visual check of the piston and rings through the exhaust port will tell you whether the saw will run or not. If you really wanted to get the very utmost out of the engine or you want to sell it then everyone wants to know the compression.
I've used the comp tester I bought for cars/trucks many years ago on my saws. Seems to work fine on small engines/saws. Last saw was a well worn 026 that gave 150psi
It does have a schrader valve. I'll have check the brand, the schrader is near the gauge.
It does have a schrader valve. I'll have check the brand, the schrader is near the gauge.
Schrader valve with the white band around the seat is the correct one for small engines, I bought mine off the Snap ON truck when I worked at the dealership. The brand of the gauge hardly matters as long as the valve is at the very tip of the screw in adapter.
I'll check mine when I'm out in the barn. Pretty sure valve is near the gauge. Need to pull saws until gauge stops increasing.
Big problem with only a valve near the gauge is the hose becomes air space and would act just like dropping the piston down in the cylinder or like adding a spacer under the cylinder base. That extra air space is difficult to compress and move in a small engine ,hence a lower compression reading results. No matter how many times one pulls the engine over the extra capacity cannot be compressed. If the valve is at the very end where the adapter screws into the cylinder head very little extra space is introduced so the compression is higher. It works along the same lines where a pop up piston increases compression, less space above the piston.
Exactly. As long as the valve is in the fitting that screws into the plug hole, the only effect of the hose volume is an increase in the number of compression strokes required to get a stable reading.
