I found one! Almost..

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I would carefully remove the built-up carbon from the exhaust port. don't get it in the cylinder.

Yes I installed my new block off plate and cleaned all around there. Dad was into electronics..I found out years ago the old TV adjustment tools work great for tight places. There are a bunch laying around. Has flat blades on both sides, with one smaller blade.
20241225_174459.jpg
And dad had a whole drawer of old school medical Q Tips...the bag is so old it is stapled at the top of each bag. His friend used to be a surgeon, so I also have a bunch of cool forceps in different lengths..someone mentioned using some to install the impulse line..perfect because I have a variety.

20241225_174732.jpg

20241225_175239.jpg
 
I went through one of these earlier this year that a dingleberry tried to repair but instead they roached the piston. the things I did to get it zippy again.
new fuel hose, impulse hose, fuel filter, carb kit, spark plug, starter pawls, piston and rings
more zip--- thinner base gasket and added a couple 3/8 holes in the muffler outlet then put a 16" bar on it. This made it act like a different saw.
 
I went through one of these earlier this year that a dingleberry tried to repair but instead they roached the piston. the things I did to get it zippy again.
new fuel hose, impulse hose, fuel filter, carb kit, spark plug, starter pawls, piston and rings
more zip--- thinner base gasket and added a couple 3/8 holes in the muffler outlet then put a 16" bar on it. This made it act like a different saw.

This is my first saw..so NOT trying to be a dingleberry😁! I do have a new fuel hose & filter, new impulse line, carb kit, bar oil cap, gas cap, spark plug, exhaust gasket and chain.

In the future I may go back to a 18" bar. Current plan is to replace the gaskets and hoses. Will attempt pressure & leak test tomorrow..hoping crank seals are good. Saw has sat a long time. Saw does have good compression and piston looks good.

Looking at proper way to easily remove carb linkage. That'll be tomorrow lesson. Looks like I can unbolt it and then remove? After that I'll see how hard it is to replace the impulse and fuel lines. Then do pressure/vacuum tests.
 
Thanks guys! I did check the bearing. It's rock solid with no movement..so shaft and bearing are good.

I was more curious if there was an upgraded bearing I should be using? But this one seems fine for now. I have some good white lithium grease I was thinking of using here
 
Thanks guys! I did check the bearing. It's rock solid with no movement..so shaft and bearing are good.

I was more curious if there was an upgraded bearing I should be using? But this one seems fine for now. I have some good white lithium grease I was thinking of using here
Do not use white lithium grease it clots and hardens over time and I have seen many instances where bearings have seized and damaged other parts. A clear light grease or even engine oil works great for all my saws.
 
Ok did a vacumn and pressure test..both good! I performed the test with the old impulse line. Since it passed I assume the impulse line is good for now. Eventually I will replace it and rebuild the carb.
20241226_122630.jpg
20241226_122601.jpg
The Deadman switch and throttle line are a little finicky. It took me a few minutes to understand how it went back together. I did not put the bar back on yet. I put some fuel in it and went through the proper starting procedures. It took a minute, but fired up and ran.

I will need to figure out how to adjust the saw properly. The idle was a little low, but it revved up and sounded great. Obviously I did a muffler mod and I replaced the spark plug with the proper plug (wsr6f) that is a little hotter plug than the ws7f that was in it. (At least that's what I read.)
20241226_123311.jpg


So after a very brief warmup I turned it off and played frisbee with the dogs...they were mad I was ignoring them all day playing with the saw. When I returned there was a small puddle of oil on the floor. I did not fill up the oil(didnt have bar on), so it was whatever was in the saw. Not sure if it's s a normal amount or if I have another problem?

So question is..I had a single dog and screw out at the bottom. Do these screws out cause extra oil? Tomorrow I'm going to flip the bar and install the new chain and fill it with bar oil. I think it's probably a normal amount of bar oil once the chain and bar are back on.

20241226_153154.jpg
 
Ok did a vacumn and pressure test..both good! I performed the test with the old impulse line. Since it passed I assume the impulse line is good for now. Eventually I will replace it and rebuild the carb.
View attachment 1229131
View attachment 1229132
The Deadman switch and throttle line are a little finicky. It took me a few minutes to understand how it went back together. I did not put the bar back on yet. I put some fuel in it and went through the proper starting procedures. It took a minute, but fired up and ran.

I will need to figure out how to adjust the saw properly. The idle was a little low, but it revved up and sounded great. Obviously I did a muffler mod and I replaced the spark plug with the proper plug (wsr6f) that is a little hotter plug than the ws7f that was in it. (At least that's what I read.)
View attachment 1229129


So after a very brief warmup I turned it off and played frisbee with the dogs...they were mad I was ignoring them all day playing with the saw. When I returned there was a small puddle of oil on the floor. I did not fill up the oil(didnt have bar on), so it was whatever was in the saw. Not sure if it's s a normal amount or if I have another problem?

So question is..I had a single dog and screw out at the bottom. Do these screws out cause extra oil? Tomorrow I'm going to flip the bar and install the new chain and fill it with bar oil. I think it's probably a normal amount of bar oil once the chain and bar are back on.

View attachment 1229130
If the oil is dripping down between the bar studs that is normal after having the engine running, this model of saw pumps oil whenever the engine is turning over. If the oil is drooling out from behind the clutch then there is likely a leak from the rubber line connecting the oil pump to the bar pad, or even the oil pump itself, occasionally the connection pump to oil line from the tank.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top