I goofed and got an 066 on ebay and....

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beelsr

ArboristSite Guru
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Goofed? Yeah, I bid $430 when I mean to bid $330. Imagine my surprise when I realized how much I spent to win... :eek: Owell, I think I did OK. You tell me though - this is my first 066....

SN: 1 47 356 xxx, MD 0004, poly flywheel, carb is a WJ69. But the P&C were replaced with a "New West" unit. Hologrammed "NEW WEST" sticker on top of the jug. On the clutch side, the following is cast on 4 lines: "V, 4H, 1122, NEW WEST" and on the flywheel side is cast on one line: "54ZN12 W2". Bore is 55mm, piston is 53mm and wrist pin is 11mm. Looks like the kits Bailey's sells.

Of course, the monkeylad who did the replacement re-used the old gasket - at least it was the plastic-clad metal but.... there's a 1/2" long leak on the exhaust side. Spinning the flywheel by hand shows lots of bubbles. Gee, maybe if they guy cleaned off some of the crap, he could have gotten a halfway crappy seal , instead of the totally crappy one.

P&C look fine through the muffler. But monkeyboy he left the exhaust gasket on the bench, or under the bench, or where ever he dropped it when putting on the new jug. Because it isn't on the saw.

Hmmm.... Check compression: 165 lbs. Turn the screws full rich, crank the idle up a couple turns and give it a couple pulls. Fires right up and tries to jump out of my hands. Them saws is loud without a muffler! Sounds a lot like a .50 cal in a helo... :)

Notice I didn't say I put mix in the saw. Third ebay saw, third ebay saw with mix in the tank... :angel:

It's got a couple mickey mouse problems - gas cap leaks (old style 2 piece separating), small crack on the rear handle (stainless screen and epoxy to the rescue), the spark plug wire is as short as it could be and still reach the Champion spark plug. And the bar and chain he included are junk.


Specific Questions:

P&C: Anyone have any info on these? Are these the ones Bailey's sells? What's the consensus on these? Shouldn't the bore be 54mm (Didn't use the calipers, used a ruler; will recheck the meas. tomorrow)?

Carb: I saw a thread (http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=26787) with some posts by Andy where he says this carb has a .64 main jet and that it's the same size as the pre-OHSA DP muffler so it can be richened up enough (post #5) but a few posts later (post #17) he says you want a .72 minimum main jet size as .66 is too small to crank up the RPMs. Or does this .72 mm only apply to the older carbs and the 69 is fine?

Muffler: I have a weird non-DP muffler. Never seen this style before. It has a louver on the side, next to the single port - no spark arresting screen though. Never seen this style before - the IPL shows them but not the application/country. What's the reason for the louver?

Air Filter: It's the Aussie HD filter (120 1601) with a felt wrap (141 0300). Still in decent shape but what's the recc. replacement? The regular HD one (120 1654)?

Bar Studs: I assume so but just to be sure.... Will the 441 "bigger shoulder" bar studs fit?
 
I'm sure "monkeylad" (excellent title, BTW) would have all the answers for you beelsr.... NOT!!

I like your strategy though, by "accidentally" bidding too much. I'm going to try that soon and see what :bowdown: "her indoors" says thereafter :laugh:
 
it's probably a stock NW PC and would be 54 MM

they only sent the BB cylinders to known builders due to fittament problems and they are 56mm,,, get yourself an exhaust gasket, go ahead and mod the muffler while you got it off,,, fix the minor stuff retune your carb and run it,,, if tha base gasket aint leakin the cylinder bolts are snug and it runs good,,,

Unless you just have to tear it apart and change the base gasket the cost about 4.00 at the dealer OEM,,, sounds like ya have a runner,,,,,,,,,,:givebeer: :givebeer: :givebeer:
 
Take a good look at the plating around the exhaust port of the cylinder. I've had two Far West in now that had peeled off... and trashed the piston etc.. The piston had a lot of casting junk and the pin was heavy.


Get a new OEM 0.5mm gasket.

Unless you are modding the saw, stay with the stock jet for the carb you have. Even with a mod, they are likely o.k. What changes is your "turns out" calibration, and it is possible on the later carbs to run out of reasonable adjustment.

The 441 stud will fit, but you will need to modify the cover holes to creats recesses on the inside.

Do a pressure and vac test... just to be sure...
 
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I'm sure "monkeylad" (excellent title, BTW) would have all the answers for you beelsr.... NOT!!

I like your strategy though, by "accidentally" bidding too much. I'm going to try that soon and see what :bowdown: "her indoors" says thereafter :laugh:

For me, the original monkeylads worked at car "stealer"ships.

My official definition was:

Derogatory term applied to mechanics who should have a different occupation, say as a landmine actuator quality control tester.

:cheers:
 
they only sent the BB cylinders to known builders due to fittament problems and they are 56mm,,, get yourself an exhaust gasket, go ahead and mod the muffler while you got it off,,, fix the minor stuff retune your carb and run it,,, if tha base gasket aint leakin the cylinder bolts are snug and it runs good,,,

Unless you just have to tear it apart and change the base gasket the cost about 4.00 at the dealer OEM,,, sounds like ya have a runner,,,,,,,,,,:givebeer: :givebeer: :givebeer:

Gotcha. Everything will be done while it's apart. It's already apart.

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Take a good look at the plating around the exhaust port of the cylinder. I've had two Far West in now that had peeled off... and trashed the piston etc.. The piston had a lot of casting junk and the pin was heavy.


Get a new OEM 0.5mm gasket.

Unless you are modding the saw, stay with the stock jet for the carb you have. Even with a mod, they are likely o.k. What changes is your "turns out" calibration, and it is possible on the later carbs to run out of reasonable adjustment.

The 441 stud will fit, but you will need to modify the cover holes to creats recesses on the inside.

Do a pressure and vac test... just to be sure...

OK... Will give it the extra hairy eyeball treatment later today when I get back to the garage.

10-4 on the sprocket cover - had to do it to the 046 so have the procedure down pat.

Need to find my mity-vac still. But, yeah, going to check that before I put it back together. I guess I should have pulled the flywheel & clutch before the cylinder but kind of got into the tear down back-azzwards... :bang: Time to make me one of the special stihl blocks of wood to lock the piston, eh? ;)

What about the air filter? {tap tap tap}
 
Take a good look at the plating around the exhaust port of the cylinder. I've had two Far West in now that had peeled off... and trashed the piston etc.. The piston had a lot of casting junk and the pin was heavy.

Plating looks good. Edges all nice, nothing peeling and no cracks. Piston has some casting flash but the pin doesn't "seem" heavy. No frame of reference though. It's 43.20 grams. Piston & rings weigh in at 235 grams.

I think I'll fire up the dremel and smooth off the flashing and casting blems from the P&C. Not going to go port crazy, just smooth for better flow. Other than the cylinder wall, it's kinda junky.

One more question: is there a substitute for the Elastosil paste to mount the carb box? I'd guess that any Permatex rtv would work. Or do you really need it?
 
sorry dude, mybad!!!!

did not realize you had it torn down,,, should have figured it out when you said he reused the old gasket,,, yeah Andy's right get yourself a new gasket and look close @ the plating if it's all good I would run it jmo,,,,,, and would still mod the muffler or get a factory dual port front cover and retune the carb that way you'll at least get you money out of it,,,,But I would be on the look out for a good used OEM 066 P/C,,, I found a cherry one for my middle bro last year for 125.00 the rings were even still nice,,,, came off of a fairly new saw that got the crankcase runover & busted by a rather Large Caterpillar skidder but the P/C was great,,, :rockn: :rockn:

a stock oem wrist pin is much lighter BTW and if you have access to one would be better but if not what you have will work!!!!!!!
 
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Plating looks good. Edges all nice, nothing peeling and no cracks. Piston has some casting flash but the pin doesn't "seem" heavy. No frame of reference though. It's 43.20 grams. Piston & rings weigh in at 235 grams.

I think I'll fire up the dremel and smooth off the flashing and casting blems from the P&C. Not going to go port crazy, just smooth for better flow. Other than the cylinder wall, it's kinda junky.

One more question: is there a substitute for the Elastosil paste to mount the carb box? I'd guess that any Permatex rtv would work. Or do you really need it?



Paste to mount the carb box? Why did you take it off the tank? Just use a decent rtv.. after degreasing.


The pin in the OEM is tapered - thin at the edges, thick in the middle. The aftermarket pins are just the same thick walled tube all the way through.
 
did not realize you had it torn down,,, should have figured it out when you said he reused the old gasket,,, yeah Andy's right get yourself a new gasket and look close @ the plating if it's all good I would run it jmo,,,,,, and would still mod the muffler or get a factory dual port front cover and retune the carb that way you'll at least get you money out of it,,,,But I would be on the look out for a good used OEM 066 P/C,,, I found a cherry one for my middle bro last year for 125.00 the rings were even still nice,,,, came off of a fairly new saw that got the crankcase runover & busted by a rather Large Caterpillar skidder but the P/C was great,,, :rockn: :rockn:

a stock oem wrist pin is much lighter BTW and if you have access to one would be better but if not what you have will work!!!!!!!

No problem. I saw the gasket was whacked pre-teardown. Pulled out the borescope and it looked OK from all angles. When I pulled the jug, though, I was expecting crank bearing damage and a blued big end on the rod, crappy looking piston, etc... But the crank was tight and when the guy replaced the jug, he didn't clean a single bit of crap off the saw, so I walked across the garage and figured I'd just clean it up a little. Ended up tearing it down while bent over the washer. {sigh}

Already looking for an OEM set. $250 seems a bit much for one from the flea. I may need to get the backhoe out and drive it by my dealer... :biggrinbounce2:
 
Paste to mount the carb box? Why did you take it off the tank? Just use a decent rtv.. after degreasing.

The pin in the OEM is tapered - thin at the edges, thick in the middle. The aftermarket pins are just the same thick walled tube all the way through.

Because I wanted to clean the crap off the backside and in between the tank and crankcase. This saw wasn't orange and white. It was brown and brown. I've seen some dirty stuff in my days but this was the dirtiest thing ever. The tank and crankcase were fused together by the crap in between that was caked and compressed by the vibe into a solid mass. The flywheel was completely covered in adhered sawdust - I literally had to scrape stuff off it to see if it was metal or poly. Under the brake cover was so completely stuff with crap, I'm surprised there was room for movement of the parts. Every casting recess was completely filled with crap.

No 10-15 minutes, couple squirts with Castrol and the garden hose here - your oil pump thread picture was quite godliness next to this pig. I've torn down million-mile diesel engines that were cleaner....

Amazing these things run as dirty as they are.....
 

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