Gabriel1982
Addicted to ArboristSite
6 swipes on each chain tooth is not that much if the chain is really dull...Thank you!! I have been watching Bucking Billy Ray and Guilty of Treeson on Youtube, learning to sharpen chains (I have round for cutters, and flat for rakers) I have to rewatch Guilty of Treeson where he explains all the different kinds of chains and parts of the chain.
I will search for the Carb Kit and get one. So far when doing the rakers, I only do 6 swipes with a flat file. Probably out of fear that I will take too much off and make the chain ultra grabby
I've been following the rule of every 2 tanks of gas, sharpen chains!!
I do 2-3 swipes at the correct angle more often than just leave it until its clearly dull and ain't cutting well at all...
And it says so in the manual: more often chain sharppening is better for chain longevity ,fuel consumption and the operator! The chainsaw must cut well without putting much pressure on the bar. If you have to do the work instead of the chainsaw then something is wrong!
I often check how high is that depth marker tooth with these tools. And it was too high first time I filled the chain. Was wondering why it cuts that hard/long. After a quick file and check of the chain plus adjusting the depth of cutting with the tools I got with the chainsaw, it's a different chainsaw cuts so good I scared the neighbours. Goes through logs like they're made of cheese ,and I had a few of hard wood type! Piece of cake for the Makita and the Oregon chain! Love it so far!
P.s. the flat file is of "not so good" quality as you can see on both sides where I filled those depth "tooths"... The Oregon chain is tougher/harder then the file... Have to buy a better one ,I think...
P.s. the chain is a .325 type! Forgot to mention that!