I need a lighter 45-50cc SAW...any recommendations?

[Wood Doctor]

Husky 353

Late last fall I serviced a Husky 353 that my friend had bought about five years ago. Now that is one heckuva sweet saw in the "under 60cc" class. Light, powerful, carries an 18" bar with ease, and cuts like a bandit.

Problem is, I'm not sure you can buy them anymore. I don't follow the Husky line that carefully, so I don't know what they replaced the 353 with. Regardless, I'm not sure that any chainsaw is much better for cutting firewood than a Husky 353.

HUSQVARNA 353 - Chainsaws

 

[Preston]

Ifin you should get a Stihl MS 250, do not, I repeat, do not get the easy start. The biggest pain I ever been talk into. It will get the temper a bit on the hot side.

 

[rburg]

The 353 was replaced by the 545. Some dealers may still have a 353 in stock. The redmax 5300 is the 353 in redmax colors.

 

[Whitespider]

I might just as well toss my 2¢ ante in the pot so I can play also...

I have little-to-no experience with Husqvarna chainsaws so I won't comment... negative or positive.

As far as Stihl, I don't care for the "MS" series of saws... if'n I went Stihl shoppin', I be looking for older used. In the 50(ish)cc class I'd be lookin' for an older 026 (about 10½ pounds). Later production 026 saws had restricted mufflers, did not have fully adjustable carburetors, and reduced power (the dreaded EPA crap)... (I think?) Stihl tried to counter it with some sort of design change that increased engine RPM (it didn't work 100%). Near as I can tell, the "change" happened right about the same time Stihl switched from riveted metal badges to adhesive backed decals... and it got worse about the same time they started attaching the "PRO" name on those saws with a decompression valve and adjustable oil pump. The "early" 026 was available in 2 models, 026 and 026w (heated handle)... the "Oil Quantity Control" was an extra option (by order).

Most sources will say the 026 weighs 10.6 pounds, has 3.2 HP, and a maximum RPM of 14,000.
My 026 is early (riveted metal badges), probably first or second year of U.S. introduction, my owners manual (printed in Germany) shows completely different specifications...

• Weight = 10.4 lbs.
• Power = 3.5 bHP.
• Maximum Engine Speed = 13,000 RPM.

I've tried tuning my saw to 14,000 RPM and it's way, way, way too lean... it won't even make decent power, so not all 026 saw's were created equal. By trial-and-error I've found 13,300 (± 50) RPM to be the "sweet" spot between RPM and power. I've run my saw side-by-side with a few other (later production) 026 saws, mine will out-perform them noticeably... it even "sounds" different, it's noticeably "crisper" in the exhaust note.

My 2¢... look for an older, riveted metal badged 026‼

 

[zogger]

maybe mail order could be an option

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/239060.htm#post4386511

 

[kyle23]

I have a Poulan PRO PP5020 20 in bar...really satisfied with the performance for the small amount of cutting I do, but due to some back/shoulder injuries, the 15 lbs is more than I like right now.
I'd like to get something close to the same power, but much lighter if possible.

I am far from a Guru on saws, but I know that there are several on this site who are literally "saw gods" overflowing with great advice or at least great sarcasm! lol
My local chainsaw billy-boys want to offer me a $100 trade in toward a new Echo CS 450P or 500P...what do you think about this?

I gave $145 plus tax new for the Poulan about 9-10 months ago.
Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks
Reggie

I would definitely have to recommend an echo 500p. My uncle has one with a 16 inch b&c and it RIPS. It surprised me how light it was also when I picked t up. It is also a very reliable saw that he has never had any problems with it.

 

[CTYank]

Reggie,
It's your money, but before you expatriate big chunks to Andreas & Co., you might want to look at VMInnovations (dot) com for really good buys on factory refurb Husqys. Like Husqy 435 for $199 f.o.b. your door, is a light 40 cc saw with plenty of power for your purposes.
Another member around here bought one, and has cut a mountain of wood, in spite of significant right arm injury.
Being a "strato" saw, you won't need to be carrying lots of mix around with you, either.

 

[tld400]

I love my 435 husky saw. It is lite and has plenty of power with the 16" bar. I don't use my 257 husky since I bought the 435.

 

[ReggieT]

Late last fall I serviced a Husky 353 that my friend had bought about five years ago. Now that is one heckuva sweet saw in the "under 60cc" class. Light, powerful, carries an 18" bar with ease, and cuts like a bandit.

Problem is, I'm not sure you can buy them anymore. I don't follow the Husky line that carefully, so I don't know what they replaced the 353 with. Regardless, I'm not sure that any chainsaw is much better for cutting firewood than a Husky 353.

HUSQVARNA 353 - Chainsaws

Ok...thanks I looked at the Husky link! Pretty impressive saw around 11 lbs correct?
Plenty of power. rpm's and guts looks like...I belive I'm narrowing it between the Echo 450-500 series or 353- 435 Husky...maybe MS 250....lol:bang:

 

[ReggieT]

maybe mail order could be an option

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/239060.htm#post4386511

Hmm...That might be a nice little Saturday get-away...hmmm!:msp_biggrin:
Thanks

 

[ReggieT]

I might just as well toss my 2¢ ante in the pot so I can play also...

I have little-to-no experience with Husqvarna chainsaws so I won't comment... negative or positive.

As far as Stihl, I don't care for the "MS" series of saws... if'n I went Stihl shoppin', I be looking for older used. In the 50(ish)cc class I'd be lookin' for an older 026 (about 10½ pounds). Later production 026 saws had restricted mufflers, did not have fully adjustable carburetors, and reduced power (the dreaded EPA crap)... (I think?) Stihl tried to counter it with some sort of design change that increased engine RPM (it didn't work 100%). Near as I can tell, the "change" happened right about the same time Stihl switched from riveted metal badges to adhesive backed decals... and it got worse about the same time they started attaching the "PRO" name on those saws with a decompression valve and adjustable oil pump. The "early" 026 was available in 2 models, 026 and 026w (heated handle)... the "Oil Quantity Control" was an extra option (by order).

Most sources will say the 026 weighs 10.6 pounds, has 3.2 HP, and a maximum RPM of 14,000.
My 026 is early (riveted metal badges), probably first or second year of U.S. introduction, my owners manual (printed in Germany) shows completely different specifications...

• Weight = 10.4 lbs.
• Power = 3.5 bHP.
• Maximum Engine Speed = 13,000 RPM.

I've tried tuning my saw to 14,000 RPM and it's way, way, way too lean... it won't even make decent power, so not all 026 saw's were created equal. By trial-and-error I've found 13,300 (± 50) RPM to be the "sweet" spot between RPM and power. I've run my saw side-by-side with a few other (later production) 026 saws, mine will out-perform them noticeably... it even "sounds" different, it's noticeably "crisper" in the exhaust note.

My 2¢... look for an older, riveted metal badged 026‼

Gotcha! Thanks a ton!

 

[ReggieT]

Ifin you should get a Stihl MS 250, do not, I repeat, do not get the easy start. The biggest pain I ever been talk into. It will get the temper a bit on the hot side.

Kinda liking what I'm a reading, seeing, and feeling on the MS 250...looks like the perfect match.:cool2:

 

[Cheesecutter]

I'll come at this from a different angle. Although more expensive, a bigger saw will get your wood cut in a fraction of the time. I would say about half as much time. Not much difference in 4 inch diameter or less, noticeably faster in small stuff 5-10 inch and way faster on 10-24 inch. My experience happens to be with a Husky 372 xp and Jonsered 2171. Both weigh about 13 lbs and just fly through wood. I even limb with mine because its handy. Not trying to confuse you, just tossing out another option. I know I'm less tired and sore using a 72cc saw for 1 or 2 hours compared to running my 026 or 2159 for 3-5 hours. I picked them up for $300 each. Maybe see if you could run one a while too see how it feels.

 

[ReggieT]

I'll come at this from a different angle. Although more expensive, a bigger saw will get your wood cut in a fraction of the time. I would say about half as much time. Not much difference in 4 inch diameter or less, noticeably faster in small stuff 5-10 inch and way faster on 10-24 inch. My experience happens to be with a Husky 372 xp and Jonsered 2171. Both weigh about 13 lbs and just fly through wood. I even limb with mine because its handy. Not trying to confuse you, just tossing out another option. I know I'm less tired and sore using a 72cc saw for 1 or 2 hours compared to running my 026 or 2159 for 3-5 hours. I picked them up for $300 each. Maybe see if you could run one a while too see how it feels.

Amen! A very intelligent and compelling angle this is!
Appreciate it!

 

[Preston]

As some of you know I was hesitant on getting the MS250. I didn't think it would cut quite like it does. But just everybody advised me, keep it sharp and let er' rip. That is a cutting little saw. So much better to handle that the 034AV I have.

 

[Whitespider]

...a bigger saw will get your wood cut in a fraction of the time. I would say about half as much time.

That's interesting, because that ain't close to what I've experienced... and why I got rid of my bigger, heavier saws several years ago. The only time I realized any significant time savings was in wood over 20-inches diameter... because the larger (70-80 cc) saw could pull a bar over 20-inches. I also found myself setting the larger saw down more often, and pouring more fuel in it, more often. It eventually got to the point where the larger saws almost never got used (maybe once a year)... I could work longer with less fatigue, thereby getting more done, using the smaller, lighter saw.

 

[Wood Doctor]

That's interesting, because that ain't close to what I've experienced... and why I got rid of my bigger, heavier saws several years ago. The only time I realized any significant time savings was in wood over 20-inches diameter... because the larger (70-80 cc) saw could pull a bar over 20-inches. I also found myself setting the larger saw down more often, and pouring more fuel in it, more often. It eventually got to the point where the larger saws almost never got used (maybe once a year)... I could work longer with less fatigue, thereby getting more done, using the smaller, lighter saw.

Working longer with less fatigue is also what I do. Loggers would not agree with either you or me. Unfortunately, they have a case. Try cutting this log with a 70cc saw or less using even a 24" bar:



I also say that if you are cutting only firewood, stick to the smallest saw that can get the job done, and don't pull out a big logger saw. You will come out way ahead by NOT wrestling with a beast. On the other hand, some of the best firewood that I have lying on the ground today is buried inside 48" dia. chunks of red elm that are 8' to 10' long. Now what?

 

[stihl023/5]

Go with the 500 Echo my neighbor has one and it rips. I want one but the wife knows how many I have.

 

[Cheesecutter]

I had a Mac PM610, a Craftsman 55cc, a 3.7 Craftsman, an old Mac 380a, and a couple Poulan limbing saws. I picked up an 026 and a J-red 2159 to replace all of them. They made a nice combo, but there wasn't enough cc spread between them, and I really wasn't happy with their performance in 12 inch plus wood. I will say they are gas sippers, lightweight, low vibration, and outstanding limb and small firewood saws. That said, I had a chance to run a 372 and quickly got spoiled by the power/weight ratio so I picked up my 2171 and will never look back. I mainly cut 8"-20" wood so my experience may not be the same for everyone.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Go with the 500 Echo my neighbor has one and it rips. I want one but the wife knows how many I have.

I just reconditioned and repaired a vintage Echo CS-500 EVL chainsaw. It has to be one of the best saws that was ever made. A little heavy perhaps, but this saw is as tough as nails. The owner told me that he wanted to buy a new saw and asked me to recommend one. I said. "Forget it, Mac. Nothing for less than $500 can beat it today."

Dang it, before I restored that saw, I should have bought it from him for $300 cash, I think he would have taken my money.