( I searched and read the threads!) Cheap chain grinder vs. files

[IchWarriorMkII]

So I think I've done my homework and read up on the opinons of electric grinders, many think a set of files will serve everyone just fine. In my case, I do a pretty light amount of cutting but its in very dirty wood. So in no time my chains get beyond dull, so they need some pretty good touching up to return to good form.

I've been sharpening on an Oregon grinder, but its burning the cutters a bit and most importantly Im just borrowing it. It works, but I'd like something of my own so I can keep the wheel dressed etc etc to practice on my sharpening skills and hopefully get at least a factory sharp on the chain... However my budget would put me into the Speed Master grind for about 150 dollars.

Would one of these grinders perform at an adequate level to suit a learning farmer in his quest to master chain sharpening? Or would the slow tried and true method offer better sharpening performance than a cheap grinder?

Im not really sure how much more 'performance' one gains in buying a more expensive chain grinder, but Im hoping its nothing a farmer would notice ...

 

[Urbicide]

What are you cutting and what type of chain are you using? I believe that a file will put a better edge on your chain than an abrasive stone. Many guys out there can put a good edge on their chains freehanded. Me, no such luck. All it takes is a litttle slip and I am back to square 1. I have become a fan of the Granberg File&Joint. Anyhow,on grinders, a popular opinion here is that they are nice to restore proper angles on the cutters or to sharpen a rocked-out chain. You have to be very careful so as not to burn the cutters (blue teeth). The faster the motor turns the more caution you need to observe. You will probably go through chains (wear them out) quicker if they are ground verses filed. If you have access to a chain grinder just buy a bunch of loops to hold you over until you can borrow the machine again. Take care.

 

[1953greg]

amen on urbicide's message. although i lean a little more to the electric side. i can spend a couple hours w/ the electric and have many chains ready for the wood. dont want to spend couple hours w/ a file in my hand. although the hand filing is essential and applied most often.

i use a electric, file guide, and free hand. which ever is necessary and/or convenient.

wood add if you want an electric sharpener stay away from the el cheapo's. look for something in the $150 area minimum new. bought mine from ebay's snssaws. excellent ebayer. highly recommended.

found this one on ebay. wood also be acceptable.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Oregon-electric...9QQihZ012QQcategoryZ85915QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

[314epw]

grinders

I agree with 1953 greg.The ebayer he mentioned is a great guy.Bought my Maxx from him.You can get 1 of these to your door for about $300.I know this is more then you wanted to spend.Now lets talk about cheap grinders (harbor freight?)As long as the machine will hold it's angles it will work.Proper angle is the key to a sharpened chain,by hand or by machine.The key to sharpening by machine is small bites.Everyone thinks you can true up a chain in one bite!Not true!Watch your sparks.You want a very small amount.When you hand file you don't see any sparks do you?Here's a tip for you.Before taking chain off for sharpening.run the saw to get bar oil on it.(good coating)Now sharpen the chain.When you see the oil start to bubble,lift up the wheel!Wait a couple of seconds,do it again.Remember small bites,watch the sparks.
Ed

 

[IchWarriorMkII]

The Speed Master grinder is availible through Bailey's, so I think it would be adequate in quality. Im not a big harbor freight guy... I can't buy tools THAT cheap with any expectations of them to work. Just a personal hang up of mine.

I believe I will buy a file set first, then purchase the grinder... if I ground the bar I can always borrow the grinder I have been to get my chain fixed. Thanks for the oil trick with the chain, by the way.

 

[bcmktg]

What are you cutting and what type of chain are you using? I believe that a file will put a better edge on your chain than an abrasive stone. Many guys out there can put a good edge on their chains freehanded. Me, no such luck. All it takes is a litttle slip and I am back to square 1. I have become a fan of the Granberg File&Joint. Anyhow,on grinders, a popular opinion here is that they are nice to restore proper angles on the cutters or to sharpen a rocked-out chain. You have to be very careful so as not to burn the cutters (blue teeth). The faster the motor turns the more caution you need to observe. You will probably go through chains (wear them out) quicker if they are ground verses filed. If you have access to a chain grinder just buy a bunch of loops to hold you over until you can borrow the machine again. Take care.

I agree with Urbicide wholeheartedly. However, I wouldn't mind having a grinder with an adjustable stop on it that would rest level on top of the cutter tooth. This would allow you to uniformly reduce the height of each raker tooth to match the cutter height as it shortens. I've been thinking of making one of those out of a cheap Harbor Freight grinder of some sort. Although I haven't been a member here for very long, I have definitely been sharpening my own chains for a lot of years. My Dad taught how many, many years ago and I still use his Granberg File N' Joint. I bought a new one off eBay that was supposed to be a "Stihl" and was shipping from Germany. It looked great in the pictures and was reasonably priced, but it turns out it was some junky POS made in Italy. It was the Yugo of filing jigs. It just would not hold the tooth firmly and would allow the tooth to wobble all over the place when you were trying to file a nice, clean edge. Back to the Granberg. It still works like a champ, but I think I am going to have to break down and get a new one because it is starting to show its age.... just like its owner.