I snapped a chain

[s37d]

Hi I'm a new member and I have a couple things to share and some questions. I've never cut a tree down all I do is find big trees that have fallen and cut them into 16" lengths for my wood stove. I'm just a tree noob with my little Poulan 18" $99 saw so don't make fun of me too much. Actually the saw looks just like this smilie:
:greenchainsaw:

1. The other day I was cutting with a fairly new chain, and all of the sudden the chain snapped. It didn't ricochet back or anything but just snapped at the joint...destroyed. I don't remember being stuck or anything, so I'm wondering what causes/caused this? Does it happen once in awhile even to you pros? Should I contact the manufacturer and see if I can get a replacement? It's a Power Care from Home Depot so I assume it's a Home Depot-exclusive brand, and probably china-made junk.

1. My chain makes a whizzing sound when it turns, so loud that I can hear it whizz when I run the saw. It didn't make this sound when I first got it so I'm wondering what's causing it?

2. Is it normal to go through an entire tank of bar and chain lube in 20 min to a half hour of fairly continuous cutting?

3. Also I was sharpening a chain with my dremel freehand with the correct size sharpening bit(5/32), but it didn't get it real sharp. I am wondering if it's even possible to get it super sharp with a dremel or if I should just go with a manual file kit instead. Is it worth learning to sharpen yourself and if you learn do you still have to bring it to a professional sharpener ever? Also any recommendations on file kit brands would be great, thanks.

 

[isaaccarlson]

I sharpen with a file and it gets SHARP.

Have you ever pinched your bar/chain? Ever bent the chain when it was not on the saw? Did you cut into a tie strap with the dremel? I think it was damaged/defective....I have personally never seen a poulan break a chain.

The wizzing sound is probably worn/damaged components or something in your bar rails.

 

[isaaccarlson]

can you post some pics?

they help A LOT.

 

[CPO]

Is there bar oil getting the entire way around? Run the saw (with your new chain on) with the tip near not touching somthing clean you should see oil being flung off the tip and making a mist/splatter pattern on the object. that will tell you if your saw is putting good oil out.

Yes you should use a tank of oil roughly the same as a tank of gas. You should be filling both every time.

Please do not try and free hand chain sharpening with a dremel you can make the chain much worse than it already is and you can make it cut crooked as heck. Most saw shops charg a few bucks to sharpen chains. I have spares I take with me cutting so I just swap the chain and then sharpen all the dull ones when I get back home.

 

[s37d]

The wizzing sound is probably worn/damaged components or something in your bar rails.

What is the best way to clean the bar rails? Also I've heard of destroyed bars...what constitutes a destroyed bar and how does it get destroyed? Yes I pinched the bar chain before, no never bent the chain when it wasn't on the saw, no I didn't cut into any tie straps.

CPO - I will check this tomorrow, but last I used the saw I think I remember some mist coming out the tip. In regards to sharpening, you don't sharpen them yourself? How do the professional sharpeners do it?

Boy chain saws use a lot of bar oil...stuff isn't super cheap either. Isn't there a more cost-effective alternative?

 

[Daninvan]

Hi 37,

You've posted to the milling forum, although it sounds like you are not milling, you're just bucking up logs for firewood? If that's the case you might get more useful responses in the chainsawing forum.

However, we are a friendly bunch here and I am sure you'll get all kinds of suggestions.

I use canola oil rather than bar oil. I know other folks do too, others don't like it. Some like use use discarded motor oil. It can be a religious issue!

Buy a file and a cheap guide and learn how to sharpen by hand. It won't take long to get the hang of it. Then you can discard the guide and go freehand. You'll be surprised at what a difference a sharp chain makes!

On the broken chain (speaking from recent experience!) make sure that there are no burrs on your bar. They will pinch the chain and cause problems. You can see/feel them easily when the chain is off. Take a look at the 2nd and 3rd pages of this thread. http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=118412

Good luck!

Dan

 

[BobL]

1. The other day I was cutting with a fairly new chain, and all of the sudden the chain snapped. It didn't ricochet back or anything but just snapped at the joint...destroyed. I don't remember being stuck or anything, so I'm wondering what causes/caused this?

Lots or reasons, mostly related to poor chain and bar maintenance.

Does it happen once in awhile even to you pros?

yes

Should I contact the manufacturer and see if I can get a replacement? It's a Power Care from Home Depot so I assume it's a Home Depot-exclusive brand, and probably china-made junk.

You can try, but don't be surprised if they find a clause that gets them out out doing anything.

1. My chain makes a whizzing sound when it turns, so loud that I can hear it whizz when I run the saw. It didn't make this sound when I first got it so I'm wondering what's causing it?

You say new chains, did you change your sprocket as well? I would suspect your sprocket is well past its use by date.

2. Is it normal to go through an entire tank of bar and chain lube in 20 min to a half hour of fairly continuous cutting?

Yes

Also I was sharpening a chain with my dremel freehand with the correct size sharpening bit(5/32), but it didn't get it real sharp. I am wondering if it's even possible to get it super sharp with a dremel or if I should just go with a manual file kit instead. Is it worth learning to sharpen yourself and if you learn do you still have to bring it to a professional sharpener ever? Also any recommendations on file kit brands would be great, thanks.

Whether you use a dremel or a file you should be able to get it sharp.
It is worth learning to do it yourself then you can do it BEFORE it gets blunt ie after every tank or two of mix.
Check out this thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=109475

 

[CPO]

I sharpen my chains but I have one of the expensive chain sharpeners costs about $200. your new chain should say what size file to use 5/32, 3/8 etc.

I would use google and watch some youtube videos on the subject. (a picture is worth 1000 words)

 

[isaaccarlson]

I use a BIG safety pin and run it down both sides of the bar

POINT FIRST to dislodge any crud. Most of the guys on here sharpen at home. I do. I am not going to shell out $$$ to keep my chains sharp. it costs enough just to buy them in the first place. I only go through about 1/2 tank of oil to a tank of gas, but I still fill both at the same time. You should chech your bar for cracks and bends and also make sure the roller tip turns freely without any grabbing or slop. Make sure you clean out your oil holes in your bar too....or you will burn it up. If your teeth start to turn brown you need to clean the bar because it is not getting oil. How long have you been using your saw? Is the sprocket worn? Also hold your chain sideways and let it sag....if it bends more than 90° it is worn.

 

[BobL]

On the broken chain (speaking from recent experience!) make sure that there are no burrs on your bar. They will pinch the chain and cause problems. You can see/feel them easily when the chain is off.

A burred chain can also jam in the drive sprocket.

Post a close up picture of some chain cutters like this and we will try to diagnose the problem.

 

[mtngun]

my little Poulan 18" $99 saw ..... and all of the sudden the chain snapped.

Your Poulan must have pretty impressive power to snap chains at will.

My chain makes a whizzing sound when it turns, so loud that I can hear it whizz when I run the saw. It didn't make this sound when I first got it so I'm wondering what's causing it?

What gage and pitch was the chain that broke ?

What gage and pitch is the bar ? This should be stamped on the bar.

What I am getting at is, did the gage & pitch of the chain match the gage & pitch of the bar ? If you were running a 0.325" chain on a 3/8 bar, or a 3/8 chain on a .325" bar, that might cause the chain to fatigue and eventually break.

To further complicate matters, there are several different kinds of 3/8 chain, but we won't confuse you with that information now.

Chances are it was just an crappy offshore chain.

It takes a while to learn to sharpen chains, no matter which sharpening method you use. Plus, the low-kickback style chains sold at big box stores don't cut all that great even when they are sharp.

 

[isaaccarlson]

looks like you need to turn your oiler up BobL.....LOL

A burred chain can also jam in the drive sprocket.

Post a close up picture of some chain cutters like this and we will try to diagnose the problem.

.

 

[s37d]

Geesh you guys respond faster than any other forum I've been on.

First off I meant to post in the chainsaw forum sorry bout that. Secondly thanks for the responses.

Daninvan - ok I will buy a file and guide, any specific brand or will even the cheap home depot brand do? Those are good pics thanks, I'll do a thorough cleaning and inspect everything tomorrow.

BobL - Like I said, I'm very new...the sprocket is the piece that's on the end of the bar and guides that end of the chain around right? How often does it need to be changed? I haven't changed it yet. It's a new saw I've only put about probably 3-5 hours of cutting into it interchanging between 3 different chains.

CPO - Yeah I've watched a few videos, I just need to get the tools so I can start practicing.

issaccarlson - How often do you need to clean these holes and where are they located? You just push the crud out with a twig or something?

I will post some pics tomorrow and get the gauge/pitch for you mtngun. TY again everyone.

 

[dingeryote]

Drive spur is chewed ta hell from running the chain too tight/loose, and bound up busting the chain.

Swap out the spur, clean the trash out of the bar groove, put on a new chain and go cut something.

That noise will go away.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[isaaccarlson]

s37d... call me...I am still up...

it will be faster than this is.

 

[isaaccarlson]

oil hole location/sprocket wear

View attachment 128008

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View attachment 128010

 

[isaaccarlson]

I use the big safety pin to clean out the rails and the oiler holes.

I like to run it down both rails and then clean the oil hole(s). The sprocket in your bar tip is not replaceable....but your drive sprocket is. If it is worn more than 1/16 inch change it.

 

[mtngun]

the sprocket is the piece that's on the end of the bar and guides that end of the chain around right? How often does it need to be changed? I haven't changed it yet. It's a new saw I've only put about probably 3-5 hours of cutting into it interchanging between 3 different chains.

The bar sprocket hardly ever wears out.

The drive sprocket -- the sprocket that is on the saw and drives the chain -- does wear and will need to be replaced every so often. The "official" recommendation is to change the drive sprocket after you have worn out 2 chains.

However, I never replaced the drive sprocket on my Poulan, because the Poulan wore out before the drive sprocket did. :hmm3grin2orange:

Seriously, with only 3-5 hours run time, your drive sprocket should be fine. Just make sure the chain specs match the bar specs.

 

[CPO]

The "whirring" sound could have been somthing simple as well. Like a chain that was too tight.

 

[BobL]

looks like you need to turn your oiler up BobL.....LOL.

You like that one - not the worst negative hook or side plate angle I have seen but close.