The "whirring" sound could have been somthing simple as well. Like a chain that was too tight.
If the chain has been over stretched the sound of the drive links slapping the font/back of the sprocket will also make a whirring sound.
The "whirring" sound could have been somthing simple as well. Like a chain that was too tight.
Drive spur is chewed ta hell from running the chain too tight/loose, and bound up busting the chain.
Swap out the spur, clean the trash out of the bar groove, put on a new chain and go cut something.
That noise will go away.
Stay safe!
Dingeryote
Hi guys. It's the right chain for it, the saw's model number is listed on the back of the package.
Geesh you guys respond faster than any other forum I've been on.
First off I meant to post in the chainsaw forum sorry bout that. Secondly thanks for the responses.
Daninvan - ok I will buy a file and guide, any specific brand or will even the cheap home depot brand do? Those are good pics thanks, I'll do a thorough cleaning and inspect everything tomorrow.
BobL - Like I said, I'm very new...the sprocket is the piece that's on the end of the bar and guides that end of the chain around right? How often does it need to be changed? I haven't changed it yet. It's a new saw I've only put about probably 3-5 hours of cutting into it interchanging between 3 different chains.
CPO - Yeah I've watched a few videos, I just need to get the tools so I can start practicing.
issaccarlson - How often do you need to clean these holes and where are they located? You just push the crud out with a twig or something?
I will post some pics tomorrow and get the gauge/pitch for you mtngun. TY again everyone.
Could be better that you posted over here. You say the phrase "$99 Poulan and Home Depot" on the other forum and you might get your pee pee slapped pretty good.
The first time I posted something those guys didn't like (ie please stay on topic and stop with the "STEEHL" - "HUSKIEE" shouting matches) I got more than my pee pee slapped. Anyway - they're actually a pretty harmless bunch if you stare em down and have a big salt shaker in your hand.
Hi I'm a new member and I have a couple things to share and some questions.
I'm just a tree noob with my little Poulan 18" $99 saw . . . The other day I was cutting with a fairly new chain, and all of the sudden the chain snapped. I. . . It's a Power Care from Home Depot.
2. Is it normal to go through an entire tank of bar and chain lube in 20 min to a half hour of fairly continuous cutting?
3. Also I was sharpening a chain with my dremel freehand . . .
Welcome to A.S.!
There are quality differences between saws. However, the chain is the most important part. Sharp chain on a small or inexpensive saw will cut better than a dull chain on a big or expensive saw.
You should absolutely take the chain back to Home Depot. This is a safety issue they need to know about. Since it is their exclusive brand they will replace it. Ask for a manager if you get any flak.
That said, you may be surprised that will get a better quality chain for about the same price at other hardware/home stores (Oregon brand) or at a saw shop (Oregon or STIHL brand). If you are buying a few things you might also want to check out some of the chains sold by A.S. sponsors (usually not worth the additional shipping costs for just one chain).
While at the saw shop, look into better saws for down the road - they might have some used or reconditioned models that are affordable.
Not unusual. Depends on the saw, the size of the tank, and what you are cutting. Newer saws and smaller saws use less fuel. What is important to remember is that the fuel and bar oil tanks are usually balanced: any time you add fuel, make sure to re-fill the bar oil tank.
There are lots of ways to sharpen a chain. It's not that complicated, but can be confusing if you try to follow all the different ways at once. Choose one and take your time to develop some skill at it. It is usually helpful to start with some type of guide instead of freehand, and to have someone show you. There are file guides and Dremel guides.
Be careful about the stuff on YouTube - some of it is just bad. This one from STIHL is pretty good for filing:
http://stihldealer.net/videolibrary/OnePlayer.aspx?v=3&vt=3&vb=0&id=3
Philbert
That said, you may be surprised that will get a better quality chain for about the same price at other hardware/home stores (Oregon brand) or at a saw shop (Oregon or STIHL brand). While at the saw shop, look into better saws for down the road - they might have some used or reconditioned models that are affordable.Philbert
Yes there is a hardware store down the street that sells Husqvarna tools. I go in there once in awhile and always look at the saws, . . . How do I know if the chain will fit my saw, what should I look for?
As far as the chain being too tight, I'm not sure if it was or wasn't. I followed some tutorial I watched that said to tighten it until you can just barely pull the chain out from the bar groove when using moderate force.
Hah, that's some nice wood Kicker, what kind is it? I want to post some pics of this wood that I recently split so you guys can identify it.
Is it ok to store freshly cut, green, bug-free, rot-free wood inside a heated garage? I figure if it's in a heated(60º+) dry garage it will season it in, say, half a year as opposed to a year.
Not exchanging air can result in mould and fungus growing on the wood.
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