Ignition Coil Or Gas Issue, I think

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Replace the fuel lines too
Could be as simple as a fuel line with a crack or pinhole in it
I put a vacuum on the fuel line and it held. the line looked really good. I do have an extra fuel line so I might just change it out. Today I am going to focus on pressure testing the saw body, sealing off the carb and muffler. I got to rule that out as the cause for no back pressure to the carb. There is not enough suck to move fuel into the carb while it is running. I do have a leak somewhere that I got to find. At this point I can not let that saw "win" Might end up with a total rebuild which could equal the cost of a new saw but I will learn a lot and it will keep my out of the bars.
 
I put a vacuum on the fuel line and it held. the line looked really good. I do have an extra fuel line so I might just change it out. Today I am going to focus on pressure testing the saw body, sealing off the carb and muffler. I got to rule that out as the cause for no back pressure to the carb. There is not enough suck to move fuel into the carb while it is running. I do have a leak somewhere that I got to find. At this point I can not let that saw "win" Might end up with a total rebuild which could equal the cost of a new saw but I will learn a lot and it will keep my out of the bars.
Vac test the impulse port or line and see if it shakes the needle back and forth while pulling it over .
 
You should not see any activity in the purge bulb once the engine starts. Are you sure it is hooked up right? It is supposed to suck fuel out of the carb and dump it back into the tank. If there is any confusion about the purge, just eliminate it by pulling the purge line off the carb, plug the end of the line with a piece of nail and then push it back on the carb fitting. It's only there to make starting quicker and has no affect on how the engine runs.
Today I pressure tested the saw's body. Blocked the carb side and the muffler side. The pressure is holding at 10 psi for over an hour now. That is good news. Right now all signs point to the impulse lines and connections. Will wait for my new part and then update.

Tony
 
This is the carb flange to cylinder connection. That small tube is the impulse tube. It must free of any blockage from one end to the other. Also check for any pin holes or cracks. Pressure and vacuum testing this tube is the best way.
 

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This is the carb flange to cylinder connection. That small tube is the impulse tube. It must free of any blockage from one end to the other. Also check for any pin holes or cracks. Pressure and vacuum testing this tube is the best way.
This is the carb flange to cylinder connection. That small tube is the impulse tube. It must free of any blockage from one end to the other. Also check for any pin holes or cracks. Pressure and vacuum testing this tube is the best way.
I order the part that you attached in your reply. I have check my existing unit and I find no leaks when I put a vacuum on that small hose. I think the carb connection to the line is weak and/or the surface to surface connection on the other end of the line is not "seating" well enough to support a vacuum so no fuel is being sucked into the carb. Hopefully, the new part will eliminate either or both those problems and the saw stays running. If not I am really challenged as to what is causing my problem.

Thank you for responding to my posts, I need all the help I can get.
Tony
 
Not sure what you are thinking is supposed to be happening here. Back pressure to a carb???
You are not looking for constant pressure back to the carburetor
what you want is a pulse signal - when the piston moves up It sucks a vacuum on the impulse tube and when the piston moves down it pushes of pressure wave into the tube
This back-and-forth pressure causes the rubber diaphragm in the carburetor to pump fuel which is what keeps your saw running
 
You are not looking for constant pressure back to the carburetor
what you want is a pulse signal - when the piston moves up It sucks a vacuum on the impulse tube and when the piston moves down it pushes of pressure wave into the tube
This back-and-forth pressure causes the rubber diaphragm in the carburetor to pump fuel which is what keeps your saw running
Yup just put a vac tester on it and it should flutter back and forth.
 
You are not looking for constant pressure back to the carburetor
what you want is a pulse signal - when the piston moves up It sucks a vacuum on the impulse tube and when the piston moves down it pushes of pressure wave into the tube
This back-and-forth pressure causes the rubber diaphragm in the carburetor to pump fuel which is what keeps your saw running
I agree, will check for that movement with gauge and let you know. Thank you
 
Yup just put a vac tester on it and it should flutter back and forth.
Yup just put a vac tester on it and it should flutter back and forth.
I still need to hock up a vac tester and see if I get back and forth movement. Tomorrow I am going fishing but I got the rest of the week to check that out. I will let you know what I find out. Thank you, Tony
 
I hope I made a break through. I have no spark at high RPMs. I do have a constant spark at low RPMs. I order a new OEM coil which I hope solves my very frustrating problem. I ran to the ground every gas related component on my saw and nothing. I pulled the pull cord off, connected a trouble light to the spark plug, ran the saw with a drill, and got spark at low RPMs but not at high RPMs. Sure hope a new coil solves my problem. We shall see.

Again, thank you for all your help, Tony
 
Received and installed the new coil. The saw started right up and remained running. Just need to adjust the carb. I am confident I, we, got my problem solved. The free saw was still a great deal and now I have a few extra parts that in the end were not the issue or bad. I did have a bad coil which I tossed.

Thank you and everyone who waded to help solve my saw issue. Learned a lot and had fun doing it.

Tony
 
Thanks for getting back to us with the solution, too often we never know if any of our advice helped. That's strange behavior for a coil so kind of put it on the "not likely" list, but with the electronic package in modern coils, strange things do happen. Good on you for sticking with it.
 

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