Inboard Or Outboard Sprockets

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Amos

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Hello,

Started a beginners chainsaw class a few weeks ago which I passed without problem (very proud of myself at the minute!!!:D) and every time was using a husky 372xp. Very good saw to use and easy to do the very basic maintenance (take bar and chain off, clean and put back on). Also had husky 359s there but it looked a lot harder to get the bar and chain off and on to them as you had to get the chain around what I believe to be the clutch mechanism. Tomorrow the place where I did the course is having like a practice day where people who have passed the course (this latest course or past courses) can go and spend the day in a special area of the bush putting what they have learned into practice. There are a couple of saws there that are bigger than the 372xp…..the 288xp, the 385xp and the 395xp. I am hankering for a go on those bigger saws but don’t know how they are set up in relation to taking the bar and chain off and putting it back on. So my question is, do the 288xp, the 385xp or 395xp have inboard or outboard mounted sprockets?

P.S. Didn’t think to ask when I was there as I was too busy thinking about passing!!! :blush:
 
To my knowledge (very limited) the 385 and 395 are in board, dont know anything about the 288 but i would wagger a guess that it is out board.
 
I have a question about replacing the sprocket on a 009. I recently got the manual from stihl, they send them to you free, in case anyone didn’t already know that. Anyway, it shows a special tool that goes in place of the spark plug that blocks the piston and crank from turning so that you can unscrew the strange mechanism from the crank and replace the sprocket. Since I don’t like to have the local looser, dealer do what I can myself and really hate buying special tools that I use once every couple of years, has anyone figured out another way to do it?:blob2:
 
Dennis came to the rescue on this one for me. Feed a piece of clothesline rope (the white, 1/4" stuff) or similar into the sparkplug hole until you can't get any more into it. This will keep the piston from moving and not mar things up inside. It works great.
 
Inboard sprockets don't pose much of a problem. You just have to put the chain on after the bar, starting behind the clutch. Most of the older saws are that way and that's what I've been used to.
 
Yep, nylon rope that works.

You can also have one of those piston stoppers made by taking a plug to the local welding shop and explaining to him what you want to do, of course, assuming average or above I.Q. on the shop mans part.

Here is one I sometimes do, but you should never try: Leave the plug in, turn the ignition off, put the impact and socket on it, throw a towel over things and give the impact a brief spurt (correct rotation of course). I could never recommend you try this. I've been know to step over the sanity line on occasion.
 
A few notes on the rope trick: Use cotton rope if you can find some. If any fibers of rope get left behind in the saw at least cotton will burn as opposed to melting. Also make sure you are stuffing rope into any internal ports. And finally , be sure to leave some rope sticking out of the spark plug hole so you can get it all out.
 
Originally posted by John in MA
Inboard sprockets don't pose much of a problem. You just have to put the chain on after the bar, starting behind the clutch. .......

Heck, I didn't know there was a DIFFERENT way to do it, regardless if inboard or outboard sprocket. :cool:
 
With the outboard sprocket saws I've seen, you can leave the chain on the bar. Just get it around the sprocket and put the bar on the saw. The inboard types I have require you to remove it from the bar and work it around.

I thought everyone used an impact wrench for stubborn clutches?
 

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