Installing the 260 Cylinder/Piston Kit

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mking7

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Well, the cylinder/piston kit arrived today. So tonight or tomorrow I will be putting the ms260 Pro back together. Any tips? Never done one. Came apart easy enough but it usually comes apart a lot easier than it goes together.

Any tips are welcome. I've been reading some old threads and one key I picked up was that the arrow points toward the exhaust side of the cylinder. Things like that are great. Don't want to ruin my new parts.

Thanks!
 
Make sure the opening in the circlips points either straight up or straight down. Wear safety glasses when putting them on and be prepared for them to go flying the first couple times you try. Advice have a towel over the area or something to keep that little circlip from flying off and getting lost.
 
I managed to reinstall the bucket and piston on my old Pull-on using advice from this site, so if I can do it I'm sure you'll be fine. I ordered a couple of extra circlips but did not need them. (I may have been lucky). I also used a wire tie to hold the ring in place as I pushed the jug down onto the piston. It worked well for me but I noticed a post recently where somebody got frustrated doing it that way. It may be harder to do when you have to deal with 2 rings.....

Be sure to post back and let us know how it went. Fixing chain saws is addicting, BTW. :)
 
Make sure the opening in the circlips points either straight up or straight down. Wear safety glasses when putting them on and be prepared for them to go flying the first couple times you try. Advice have a towel over the area or something to keep that little circlip from flying off and getting lost.

what did you use to install the clips with? I have some small snap ring pliers but there aren't any holes to insert them into on the circlips that I noticed. I'm going to pull them out of the bag and make sure
 
Well I got it put together but I have a couple questions. I was told the saw had had straight gas through it so I was assuming the carb was set okay but decided I better start from scratch just in case. There are three punch outs and the two outboard slots are marked H and L....here's the kicker, the punch outs are still in those slots (not sure they are punch outs but it's plastic) and there is one screw in the middle slot. What gives?

Also, I put a tecomec cylinder kit on it and the fly wheel rubs a bit on a piece of the casting that juts out a bit more than the factory one did. Can I pull the flywheel off and put a washer under it or something or should I pull the flywheel and try to take the casting down a bit with a dremel?

Thanks for the help fellas.
 
what did you use to install the clips with?



I just use a small screwdriver for the circlips. I know there are better ways, but I put one side in the slot and then use a small screwdriver or needle nose pliers to push the other side in.

Tom
 
Well I got it put together but I have a couple questions. I was told the saw had had straight gas through it so I was assuming the carb was set okay but decided I better start from scratch just in case. There are three punch outs and the two outboard slots are marked H and L....here's the kicker, the punch outs are still in those slots (not sure they are punch outs but it's plastic) and there is one screw in the middle slot. What gives?

Also, I put a tecomec cylinder kit on it and the fly wheel rubs a bit on a piece of the casting that juts out a bit more than the factory one did. Can I pull the flywheel off and put a washer under it or something or should I pull the flywheel and try to take the casting down a bit with a dremel?

Thanks for the help fellas.

Nevermind the part about the carb adjustment. I downloaded an owners manual and see that my model has a L adjustment only. So, OK. But what to do about the rubbing of the flywheel???????
 
Flywheel

Dont remove any material from the flywheel, the balance would be affected. Remove it from the casting.
 
Dont remove any material from the flywheel, the balance would be affected. Remove it from the casting.

Right. I was going to either remove a bit from the casting or put a spacer on the fly wheel but I think removing the casting material is the best option so I guess I 'll just do that.....
 
You can't put a washer behind the flywheel. The flywheel fits against the crankshaft and is held on by that friction. You would have to remove the casting material.

Tom
 
Why are you doing all of this without a service manual? Answers to all your question and more are in the manual... and I'm sure it's on this site somewere as an attachment.
 
There are three punch outs and the two outboard slots are marked H and L....here's the kicker, the punch outs are still in those slots (not sure they are punch outs but it's plastic) and there is one screw in the middle slot. What gives?

.

Sounds like you have a single screw carb. The access hole is for the L screw. In this case there is no H screw.
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I went ahead and pulled the cylinder back off to dremel the casting. Cranked right up and runs good. I need to sharpen the chain and/or get a new one. But the saw runs like a top. I bought it busted and fixed it so I have that satisfaction. Probably wouldn't make a profit if I sold it but it was fun and I got another saw out of it. :)

I had bought one of these for my uncle a year or so ago so now I have one. I will be curious how it feels once it's broken in and the chain is sharp.

Either way, thanks guys!
 
Look on Ebay or at Baileys and find out what piston/cylinders are cheap...then by the saw to fix. I redid my 290 for about 65 bucks for the piston/cylinder. Now I want to redo it with a 390 piston/cylinder!
Congrats on getting it going....fells good huh?
 

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