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there's alot more to insulating a basement than simply applying fibergalss over your walls.

many people have, in the past, hung sheets of plastic, then studs, then fiberglass and covered with drywall. the problem with doing that is moisture between the plastic and the block walls. i know of many people who have done it this way, only to find out they had black mold growing back there.

there are new suggestions on how to properly insulate a basement. if i can find the link(s) i'll post them. some areas even have new building codes on insulating/finishing basements just to avoid the mold/mildew problems.

the use of foam panels is recommended over fiberglass.

here's a great PDF file that explains why the old way is wrong:

http://www.eere.energy.gov/buildings/building_america/pdfs/db/35017.pdf
 
geez, uninsulated basements.... its like your living in the stone age on that side of pond :monkey:

anyhow, decent article...
BUT if i were to insulate my basement i think the easiest way would be to throw styrofoam on the outside of wall, then add 2x2 framing to the inside, 50mm of wool between 2x2's and then throw gyproc or particleboard on top of that....
 
geez, uninsulated basements.... its like your living in the stone age on that side of pond :monkey:

anyhow, decent article...
QUOTE]

lol...you'd be surprised how many homes do not have insulated basements.

i was at a newer home...maybe 5 years old or less, and the owner wanted the basement finished. i was there to give an estimate. the builder just hung wrapped insulation half way down the wall. it looked like a huge pillow hanging there.

i told the people they're wasting their money if they don't change that and do it right.

basements are tricky to insulate and not get mold or mildew.
 
I saw on a home show (Holmes on Homes?) where they put studs on the walls with 1/2" spaces between the studs and block, then sprayed in/on blue expanding foam.


The foam prevented moisture invading and made a water tite seal to prevent leaks.


It was fairly cheap too.


.
 
I did mine some 20 years ago - Powernailed 1x3's to the concrete, used roofing nails to put 1" styrofoam [that pink stuff] to them. Made quite a difference. With the wood boiler down there, it's pretty nice. In the summer, I run a dehumidifier about 1 day a week from July - Sept. otherwise my tools got rusty. One thing about any of this insulation, per code it has to be covered. paneling, sheetrock, whatever. I used a fire-retardant paint the bldg. inspector approved.
 
A little tip for every one thinking of insulating there basement make sure you or who ever you hire uses pressure treated lumber when they frame out your basement or have wood touching cement. That blue foam insulation is also a very very good idea unlike your typical pink fiberglass it has a higher insulating value than any other type of insulation something even better is getting a pro in to spray your walls with foam. If foam insulation is sprayed in against your cement walls and studs it will create a air tight barrier that is very moisture resistant, insect proof, and fire retardant. One word of caution according to the spray foam insulation counsel any one using fiberglass insulation is not truly stopping air infiltration and it is also prone to insect and animal infestation not to mention it is not all that fire retardant.
 
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A little tip for every one thinking of insulating there basement make sure you or who ever you hire uses pressure treated lumber when they frame out your basement or have wood touching cement. That blue foam insulation is also a very very good idea unlike your typical pink fiberglass it has a higher insulating value than any other type of insulation something even better is getting a pro in to spray your walls with foam. If foam insulation is sprayed in against your cement walls and studs it will create a air tight barrier that is very moisture resistant, insect proof, and fire retardant. One word of caution according to the spray foam insulation counsel any one using fiberglass insulation is not truly stopping air infiltration and it is also prone to insect and animal infestation not to mention it is not all that fire retardant.

amen.

but, that spray foam is really expensive....unless i'm pricing the wrong stuff.
 
Insulation is great but dont forget about heat loss due to wall penetrations. When I was building my current house, I had energy star specifications in mind. I sealed all the wall penetrations I found and had the insulation inspected by a qualified energry star contractor. Everything was up to his expectations until we had the blower door test done after construction was completed.
I forget the actual numbers on the test but the results were 3 times the approved limit to meet the energy star requirements. The largest offender was the attic access door. I had a set of pull down stairs with batt insulation over the top of the door when closed. I thought it was pretty good. However, the amount of air being drawn through that room from the hatch would probably blow out a 35 year olds birthday cake. A simple hatch cover was built with 2" PS sheets to seal the door.
We also found penetrations from the plumber that we both had initially missed. Luckily, these could be fixed through access panels in the tub surround and crawl spaces.
The last major offender was all the "insulation contact AIR TIGHT" recessed lights I had put in. They were no where near air tight. I had to build drywall boxes around the ones on the second floor and then seal the boxes with foam to prevent air loss.

After making these changes the overall temp in the house remained more constant with little temp fluctuations from room to room. I was surprised how noticable it was.
 
:clap: Great job I hope you collected your EPA refund on all of that work I know your energy bills have re payed you for all of that hard work.
 
It might be but there are ways to get air in there with PVC pipes and so forth. If I am not mistaken most of your newer homes that are "air tight" have a fresh air intake for the HVAC system but if your concerned about getting fresh air in during the winter just crack open a window in the basement.
 
If the basement is small, well insulated and very air tight, is there going to be a problem getting replacement air?

that's a problem with many new homes: they are sealed too air tight. they do have air exchangers for that problem. however, any existing home might be almost impossible to get air tight because of the construction.

the exhaust fan in the doorway to draw air out of the home is the best way to determine where your home leaks are. outlets and switch boxes are a big culprit for leaking air, as are pipe and wire penetrations and celing light boxes.

you can get pre-cut foam that go behind wall plates that cover switches and outlets. they work really well. spray foam does an excellent job at sealing wires and pipes.
 
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