Intermittant sprocket problem

[avalancher]

I was cutting today with my 372, and for no apparent reason the saw began to bog. Checked to make sure I was not clogged with chips, did a bit of noodling to start out with. Nothing.
Back to the woodpile, the bogging continued, acted like it had a loss of power, but engine wise it sounded fine. A quick turn of the chain indicated the problem.
Heres the problem. The sprocket nose binds only when warm.Pumped it full of grease again, but the problem persisted. After it cools, its fine.Turns freely.
This bar is only two months old, and I have kept it well greased. An examination didnt show up anything stuck in it like a chip or anything, even under a good magnifying glass.
Any ideas?Are the bearings really shot already?
Never had a bar go out this quick.

 

[CentaurG2]

What kind of bar are you running, Oregon, stihl, windsor other?? Grease or no grease really should not make much of a difference as long as you are consistent. If the bar tip is replaceable, it should not cost too much to fix. I have cut a lot of wood but have never had a sprocket tip freeze up.

 

[avalancher]

What kind of bar are you running, Oregon, stihl, windsor other?? Grease or no grease really should not make much of a difference as long as you are consistent. If the bar tip is replaceable, it should not cost too much to fix. I have cut a lot of wood but have never had a sprocket tip freeze up.

Its an Oregon bar, 24 inch. I did a quick check on the new bar tip, not a whole lot cheaper,especially since I am going to have to throw a few bucks at the local shop to rivet the thing in place. I dont have anything that will pull a rivet that big.

 

[CentaurG2]

Oregon usually makes good bars. To replace the sprocket, I think you just drill out the old rivets and pound in the new ones. Try soaking the bar tip overnight in some solvent (paint thinner) to see if it can loosen up any compacted material. After a good soak, run the bar without grease on the saw to see if it still gives you the same problems. Huskys oil well so the sprocket should get enough lube from the bar oil. Try posting this problem down in chainsaw to see if anyone else has some ideas. Good luck.

 

[avalancher]

Oregon usually makes good bars. To replace the sprocket, I think you just drill out the old rivets and pound in the new ones. Try soaking the bar tip overnight in some solvent (paint thinner) to see if it can loosen up any compacted material. After a good soak, run the bar without grease on the saw to see if it still gives you the same problems. Huskys oil well so the sprocket should get enough lube from the bar oil. Try posting this problem down in chainsaw to see if anyone else has some ideas. Good luck.

You dont have to have any type of rivet gun to drive the new rivets?
Pardon my ignorance, I have had a sprocket fail before the bar was shot anyway.

 

[Philbert]

You dont have to have any type of rivet gun to drive the new rivets?

Just posted this in another thread. Shows you how to do it (scroll down to the type of bar you have).

http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/ms_manual/ms_08.pdf

Are you sure that the tip is not bent a little bit, that causes it to pinch together when warm? Maybe check the size of the slot all the way around the tip and see if it need to be pried open a hair.

Philbert