introduce myself

[clearance]

Its ok Kev, no big deal.

 

[DonnyO]

Its ok Kev, no big deal.

I took it as a compliment! Whatsamatta clearance? You don't like Rosie?

 

[nytreeman]

welcome,great site

As far as knots, all you need to know for now is the bowline, the tautline and the figure 8. Thats it for climbing at the basic level, always worked for me, thousands of times.

I totally agree with Clearance keep it simple as you can 90% of the trees I climb thats all the knots I need I climb on 1/2" sampson stable braid w 2 over 2 under taughtline,can get tight but massage the knot a little and it works fine.

 

[diltree]

I use to climb on a taught line .......the blakes is way better, and you start incorporating the micro pulley; things move way smoother if you catch my drift

 

[safeT1st]

wading through

Thanks for the input on thest subjects.Ordered gear 10 days ago,has not arrived.Climbing line is Arbormaster 16 strd. 1/2",rigging is5/8" Arbor-Plex 12 strd. While awaiting its arrival I am studying and learning knots.So many choices and opinions. You experienced people could probably narrow it down,knowing the type of rope,as to which knots will be most efficient. I read that material for Prusiks and VT's etc should not exceed 1/2 dia. of standing line. Any opinions on size and type of line for Prusiks and other friction knots with above listed lines? Also not quite clear on the Taut- Line hitch,my book details 3 styles.Magnus and Rolling and Taut-Line Hitches.These are friction knots,right? Different styles for different applications?When you speak of 2 over,2 under, is this the # of turns and their location in regards to working end ?The knots I know well areverhand,slipped overhand, cow and timber hitch, bowline,running,on a bight,dbl fisherman,Prusik,fig. 8,fig. 8 loop,fig. 8 threaded and what my friend calls Magic fig. 8. Its a looped 8 but instead of passing bight through last loop to form 8 you fold bight through last loop and pass single bight backwards over entire knot,results in fig. 8 with 2 loops and 3 turns around standing and working lines.Sheetbend,SB looped,catspaw,handcuff and fireman's chair,clove and half hitch. ( see next post)

 

[safeT1st]

wading through cont.

Also am able to splice 3 strand,eye and back (dogs c#&k),crown knot always gives me trouble though.Does any one recommend using friction savers ? Is it possible to attach one fairly high up a spar from the ground ? I would like to be able to ascend a tall spar-like tree without the spurs occasionally as continous sparring will damage the tree.I really appreciate the great info you all share and find myself spending too much time browsing these threads as it is so interesting,great crew here! If anyone could address my queries I would be grateful. safeT1st.P.S. is it possible to lengthen posting window,I am not computer savy.

 

[clearance]

Your book should have a picture of a tautline, there are images of it on the net, probably on this site. In B.C. lifelines have to be spliced by a WCB certified splicer. SafeT, you have to walk befroe you run, my advice still is to keep it simple. The Tree Climbers Companion says, on page 84, "the French prussic (vt and mt) is an unforgiving knot that has shortcomings with potentially fatal consequences".

 

[beowulf343]

I'm impressed-you know more knots than i do!

Taughtline 2/2 or 2/1--pretty much everyone starts it with two wraps around the line. It's when you cross over the tops of the bottom two wraps and start the top wraps that you can do either 1 or 2. Big guys usually use 2 upper wraps but it does tend to bind up harder than a single top wrap.

If you are tying a blakes or taughline, 1/2" on 1/2" will work fine. You get into the more complex friction hitches and you will want a thinner split tail. Been using 10mm beeline with a martin hitch on my 1/2" xtc lately without a problem.

Friction savers can be put into the tree any height you can set your throwline. Set your throwline over a branch, untie your bag and thread end on throwline through small ring and retie the bag back onto the throwline. run the end of your climbing line through the big ring and pull enough through so that the rope will be doubled the height you are setting the friction saver. Pull your throwline back up the tree dragging the friction saver and your climbing line with it. Pull it over the brach, lower your throwbag back to the ground, untie the throwbag and tie the end of your throwline to the end of your climbing line. Pull your throwline through the small ring thus dragging your climbing line through it and back to the ground. Hard to explain but i think the tree climber's companion has some pictures. Good luck.

 

[nytreeman]

try this site http://www.animatedknots.com/ lots of knots and step by step pics very cool

 

[nytreeman]

I use to climb on a taught line .......the blakes is way better, and you start incorporating the micro pulley; things move way smoother if you catch my drift

I've used the blakes and it does work a little easier esp if the rope gets all pine sap ,but I can tie a tautline with one hand and the blakes does get the tail under the last hitch pretty hot if you descend fast which i do admit I like to do:yoyo:

 

[safeT1st]

excellent link

try this site http://www.animatedknots.com/ lots of knots and step by step pics very cool

Very cool indeed! The one handed bowline is pretty darn good. thank you.

 

[safeT1st]

100 %

Your book should have a picture of a tautline, there are images of it on the net, probably on this site. In B.C. lifelines have to be spliced by a WCB certified splicer. SafeT, you have to walk befroe you run, my advice still is to keep it simple. The Tree Climbers Companion says, on page 84, "the French prussic (vt and mt) is an unforgiving knot that has shortcomings with potentially fatal consequences".

Fully agree with you about walking first, in my case crawl.Once I get the TC's Companion I will study it well.The knots I listed are more than I will ever need but all my life i have tried to tie ropes properly,inborn passion I guess.Trying to be well versed in all options so I can choose well what works for me instead of copying exactly what some fellow does in a video.Have spent time with spurs but lifelines,SRT and DRT are new to me.Once my gear arrives and I become familiar with its use and function I think all the unnecessary ideas and thoughts will fade and I will be able to test your knowledge with more intelligent questions. Thanks

 

[safeT1st]

beowulf343

The big difference between you and me is that you know the knots you need and where to use them.I,on the other hand am more of a hobbyist who knows how to tie some but to use them effectively is yet to come.Kind of eager to experience the feeling of knowing my own rope work is true and will protect me from serious falls. Thanks for clarifying the taut-line hitch and your explanation of friction saver rigging. I failed to emphasize installing a friction saver on a spar without using branches or spiking up.Can't think how it could be done but if it can, one of you fellas will know.

 

[beowulf343]

Whoops, sorry safet1st, misunderstood your question.

A simple friction saver will not work on a stem with no branches or anything to catch on. You will need an adjustable friction saver-a friction saver with and adjustable prussic that allows you to snug it up to the stem. Whether it can be installed from the ground, i don't know, i usually just use it to desend the stem when i'm done limbing. Will be interested to see if it is possible.