Is it the bar or the chain?

[Man'N'Maul]

Hey everyone.

I've acquired an ms260 with a couple spare chains. Progressing through the first chain without any notable concern , I've gone to an brand I can't identify by markings.

Tangs match and I've dressed the bar (, to what I believe) to be squared with the dressing tool.

I've given a good once over of the chain for file and rakers with the depth gauge.

the problem I'm facing is through a cut of greater then 5-6inches it seems the cut wants to slice / curve out too one side.

Could the bar be twisted, not squared, chain filed incorrectly

 

[cookies]

if the bar's groove where the chain rides is worn the saw will cut in cursive, replace the bar AND chain

 

[Man'N'Maul]

It starts to go diagonal and then binds up on itself

 

[bigbadbob]

it may be sharprer on one side than the other,, or like he said bar is worn or wrong chain,

 

[dandan111]

Looks like chains not setting right on the bar? Make sure the bar grove
is clean then I’d try a different chain.

 

[J D]

Pic's... nice close well focused pic's of the chain from both sides & a few different angles. Pic of bar rails & markings on bar too.
The bar should be dressed square & have any burs removed but also needs to have the rails parallel (not splayed) & have the same guage groove as the chain drive links... if thats the case, the chain should run freely along the bar & not bind at any point while at the same time not having enough clearance to lean over significantly. A straight edge placed against the side if the bar is a good way to assess the amount of "lean" but this can be a bit subjective.
If bar rails are square most likely your chain has been rocked on one side & is sharpened unevenly

 

[fleethirte]

what kind of bar is it?

 

[Man'N'Maul]

Oem Stihl .

Took down an apple tree but got close to the dirt with stumping it; tip cleaned and spinning freely and after dressing the bar heavily with (attached photo)

It looks square and true for looking down the bar to something far away to show imbalance ( like staring down a billiards pool cue for your shot)

Will try with a different chain to see if something shows a different sign.

If there's a way to "fix" a bar I'm all for it.....

.....or fabricate..... I have like 12 homelite bars

 

[cookies]

The squeeze is not worth the juice, rails would need to be ground enough to remove the worn portion...thats a lot of grinding. peening or closing the rails is a band aid....going up a chain thickness could buy another chains use but still a band aid. I just buy a new bar and move on without any future issues. Being cheap with bars and chains puts you and those around you in danger. The first time I boke a chain running a garbage bar and chain it ejected the chain in 3 pieces. Two went into the ground near my right foot, the third went yards away through the woods, changed my shorts then ordered a new bar, 2 chains and sprocket. 100 bucks and it cut like a new saw. The second time the roller nose on a cheap bar seized up in a big cut, slung the chain out of the cut into a tree embedding the drivers as it wrapped around it... no more cheap funny name chinese bars after that, went 100% tsumura 4 years ago and all of the issues stopped. Just replace the tips when worn and move on!

 

[dandan111]

I have seen that guys file them then smooth with a flapper disc. Looks good but I’m not sure at what point it’s dangerous.

 

[Hermio]

if the bar's groove where the chain rides is worn the saw will cut in cursive, replace the bar AND chain

The bar can be swaged and ground as long as the groove depth clears the drive links. In my area, that service costs about half as much as a new bar, and it can usually be done 2-3 times.

 

[Hermio]

it may be sharprer on one side than the other,, or like he said bar is worn or wrong chain,

That is why I have the chain jointed about every 5-10 hand sharpenings. My skill is such that I think I have a bias towards one side of the chain when sharpening with a Pferd 2 in 1 jig.

 

[Hermio]

The squeeze is not worth the juice, rails would need to be ground enough to remove the worn portion...thats a lot of grinding. peening or closing the rails is a band aid....going up a chain thickness could buy another chains use but still a band aid. I just buy a new bar and move on without any future issues. Being cheap with bars and chains puts you and those around you in danger. The first time I boke a chain running a garbage bar and chain it ejected the chain in 3 pieces. Two went into the ground near my right foot, the third went yards away through the woods, changed my shorts then ordered a new bar, 2 chains and sprocket. 100 bucks and it cut like a new saw. The second time the roller nose on a cheap bar seized up in a big cut, slung the chain out of the cut into a tree embedding the drivers as it wrapped around it... no more cheap funny name chinese bars after that, went 100% tsumura 4 years ago and all of the issues stopped. Just replace the tips when worn and move on!

I have had good luck having a machine shop swage and grind the bar. It works as well as new.

 

[Hermio]

I have seen that guys file them then smooth with a flapper disc. Looks good but I’m not sure at what point it’s dangerous.

Too crude. No way to be sure the rails are parallel.

 

[irhunter]

Progressing through the first chain without any notable concern

the problem I'm facing is through a cut of greater then 5-6inches it seems the cut wants to slice / curve out too one side.

Since the bar was fine with the last chain...problem is likely the new chain.

Your problem can be caused by the right-side/left-side chain-filing variance.

We still need pics of the chain.


Roy