IS vs 30-NCH Help Needed

[betterbuilt]

Yeah getting heat up to my second story isn't an issue. My issue is getting the heat from my stove room which is in an outer wing of the house pass the hallway/entrance way to another room across from the stove room and through that room to dining room/kitchen.

I've seen the wood stove heat powered fans. Those look pretty cool. I just saw a hand heat powered fan yesterday but I can't seem to find it again. I'm guessing the heat powered transom fan is a non option. I was hoping to power the transom fan from the naturally rising heat kicked off from the wood stove. I figure there's a bunch of heat just sitting up at ceiling level that's virtually wasted so I hoped that would be enough to get some fan blades moving and push the heat pass the entrance hallway and through the other transom. Hope that makes sense because I kind of confused myself writing that.

I have a ranch thats let's say 1600sqft. It's maybe 60 ish feet wide. There is one step down into my kitchen and another into the bedroom. There's like 17 windows that measure 71x41 so I have a huge amount of heat loss.
Anyhow this year I added a small New englander stove to the opposite side of the house. NC12 I think. It was free. Anyhow talking with a friend one day he sent me home with a inline fan and some pipe to see if this would work for me. He had this thing in his house right over a floor register next to his wood stove and he would use his furnace ducting to move hot air through his house. Obviously pushing the hot air from the ceiling down into the register. He said he took it out because it was impossible to sleep when the whole house was 80. It's just 6 inch ducting and an inline fan. I removed the fan and put a 12 volt fan so I could use it with my solar system. I will say the 12 volt fan is so much quieter then the 120 fan. This isn't working great in my house but I don't have any registers. I'm just using it to push the air down and into the next room. I'm just throwing this out there incase it might help in your situation.

 

[Ambull01]

I have a ranch thats let's say 1600sqft. It's maybe 60 ish feet wide. There is one step down into my kitchen and another into the bedroom. There's like 17 windows that measure 71x41 so I have a huge amount of heat loss. View attachment 400415
Anyhow this year I added a small New englander stove to the opposite side of the house. NC12 I think. It was free. Anyhow talking with a friend one day he sent me home with a inline fan and some pipe to see if this would work for me. View attachment 400416 He had this thing in his house right over a floor register next to his wood stove and he would use his furnace ducting to move hot air through his house. Obviously pushing the hot air from the ceiling down into the register. He said he took it out because it was impossible to sleep when the whole house was 80. It's just 6 inch ducting and an inline fan. I removed the fan and put a 12 volt fan so I could use it with my solar system. I will say the 12 volt fan is so much quieter then the 120 fan. This isn't working great in my house but I don't have any registers. I'm just using it to push the air down and into the next room. I'm just throwing this out there incase it might help in your situation.

Hmm, you mean using ducting like that to get the heated air from the stove room to the other room? I read about that option on the woodheat site I believe. That would probably be the best/most efficient option to tell you the truth. I don't know what they're called but if placed those square ducting from the stove room transom and connect that to the opposite room with a fan inserted into the beginning of the ducting I could probably get a lot of heat. Now if only heat sank instead of rising I could place some vents along the bottom of the duct work and run it all the way from family room, into dining room, then into kitchen. Put a vent in each room. Or I could still do that in a non fairy tale world by possibly putting in a vent on the sides of the duct work in each room so the heat can come out.

 

[betterbuilt]

Hmm, you mean using ducting like that to get the heated air from the stove room to the other room? I read about that option on the woodheat site I believe. That would probably be the best/most efficient option to tell you the truth. I don't know what they're called but if placed those square ducting from the stove room transom and connect that to the opposite room with a fan inserted into the beginning of the ducting I could probably get a lot of heat. Now if only heat sank instead of rising I could place some vents along the bottom of the duct work and run it all the way from family room, into dining room, then into kitchen. Put a vent in each room. Or I could still do that in a non fairy tale world by possibly putting in a vent on the sides of the duct work in each room so the heat can come out.

Each house has it's own variables. So is your ducting at the floor or by the ceiling? I think the trick is moving the air slow enough so you don't cool the air down to much. I will say when the stove is cranking this thing is working great. Another month and i'll break even on the installation of the new stove. That in itself is a good feeling.

 

[Ambull01]

Each house has it's own variables. So is your ducting at the floor or by the ceiling? I think the trick is moving the air slow enough so you don't cool the air down to much. I will say when the stove is cranking this thing is working great. Another month and i'll break even on the installation of the new stove. That in itself is a good feeling.

I don't have ducting right now. There used to be duct work that ran from the cellar/basement portion and went to the crawl space. I see vents when I crawl under my house and what looks to be asbestos wrapped duct work still down there. I'll have to clean it up this spring/summer.

Good point about the air cooling down. Although, take for instance a newer house with forced heat (not sure what the hell it's called lol). My former house had this and the fan would push heat out through the vents quick. So knowing this, if the fan get get the heat out fast I wonder if the speed will have a negligible affect on heat loss?

 

[betterbuilt]

Forced air is a whole different thing then moving warm air. I'd think eventually you'd be moving cooler air if you moved it to fast. Not that I really understand all this. I don't look at it as an instant fix, but when there is surplus hot air moving it around has to help. I'd still think slower would be better.

You could always add on of these..

 

[X-S-FLA]

Holy Crap Batman! When we got hit by Wilma, I used a low-flow solar pump and 200' of goodyear garden hose to produce hot water. The neighbors were lined up for some hot water! Then, after-the-fact, I built what you see above (used 1/2" copper tubing tho) for the cloudy days so I could heat water. I ran that rig into the house and back-fed the 50 gal hot water tank; simple re-circ. It worked amazingly well. Glad to see I'm not the only wierdo geek on the planet
Bravo "Betterbuilt"
mike

 

[betterbuilt]

Holy Crap Batman! When we got hit by Wilma, I used a low-flow solar pump and 200' of goodyear garden hose to produce hot water. The neighbors were lined up for some hot water! Then, after-the-fact, I built what you see above (used 1/2" copper tubing tho) for the cloudy days so I could heat water. I ran that rig into the house and back-fed the 50 gal hot water tank; simple re-circ. It worked amazingly well. Glad to see I'm not the only wierdo geek on the planet
Bravo "Betterbuilt"
mike

I can't take credit for that. Just found the image while searching earlier. It was list as a wood fired pool heater.

 

[Ambull01]

Forced air is a whole different thing then moving warm air. I'd think eventually you'd be moving cooler air if you moved it to fast. Not that I really understand all this. I don't look at it as an instant fix, but when there is surplus hot air moving it around has to help. I'd still think slower would be better.

You could always add on of these.View attachment 400447.

How is it different? I don't think it will cool off a whole lot in my situation since the distance isn't that great. WTH do I know though lol.

That's awesome! lol. Someone had too much time to experiment. I would like to do something like that with my future wood stove. Wrap that copper around the wood stove to heat my water.

 

[betterbuilt]

Holy Crap Batman! When we got hit by Wilma, I used a low-flow solar pump and 200' of goodyear garden hose to produce hot water. The neighbors were lined up for some hot water! Then, after-the-fact, I built what you see above (used 1/2" copper tubing tho) for the cloudy days so I could heat water. I ran that rig into the house and back-fed the 50 gal hot water tank; simple re-circ. It worked amazingly well. Glad to see I'm not the only wierdo geek on the planet
Bravo "Betterbuilt"
mike

So you had one of these outside and it made your hot water just from the sun. Was it in a box or just outside?

 

[Ambull01]

I can't take credit for that. Just found the image while searching earlier. It was list as a wood fired pool heater.

wood fired pool heater lmao!

 

[betterbuilt]

How is it different? I don't think it will cool off a whole lot in my situation since the distance isn't that great. WTH do I know though lol.

Trial and error would be the best way to find out.

 

[X-S-FLA]

When the storm passed, I removed my windows shutters/panels. Put a few of 'em on the back lawn, coiled up the hose on the panels, hooked up the El-Sol pump to my battery bank, and let 'er rip. I had 137* water in short order. Once that was done and working, I pulled the hose into the house, connected to the drain outlet at the bottom of the tank. To continue that circuit, I tapped the hot-water spigot on the nearby clothes washer. Turned on the pump and whaaala! Hot frickin' water was circulating; the boss was happy again...of course, she had to deal with the H2O smelling like a garden hose but; oh well

 

[X-S-FLA]

The next iteration was to use some copper tubing I had coiled up laying around ($$$). So, I fitted some adapters, drilled some holes in the grill, piped it all up, and fired up the grill. The solar system powered the circ pump and the grill provided the heat. And when I say heat, it was scalding; even with the grill on low. It didn't take long to get the water tank up to temp. So, basically, it's the fall-back system should we have no power and cloudy days. Either way, I'm able to make hot H2O off-grid.

 

[Oldman47]

I seem to have caused confusion instead of clarity. Sorry for that. As someone said, the actual heat transfer from the stove body to the air is by conduction. That is absolutely correct. By transferring that heat to a restricted volume of air that air gets hotter than it would without the shield passages being present. That means that coming out the top of the shield area that air is hotter and moving faster than it would be so that when it hits room air it tends to mix better and transfer the heat to the room better. Without the shield the same conduction is your major heat transfer method but you have nothing much to promote good air circulation for the convective part of the heat transfer to take place. The difference in how well the air flows through that shielding path is the real advantage to a shielded stove.
Radiation is a very inefficient heat transfer method. If it wasn't, the 5800ºK, around 5500ºC, temperature of the sun would roast us all. Radiation relies on 2 factors. One is the temperature difference between the items heating and being heated and the other is the square of the distance between those objects. Without getting into complicated mathematics, suffice it to say that even when objects are fairly close to each other the radiation heat transfer is small compared to conduction or convection unless you are working in a vacuum. If you are 2 feet from a stove, the radiation heat transfer has already dropped to only 1/4 as much as at 1 foot due to the square effect. At 3 feet it is down to 1/9 the rate and so on.

 

[X-S-FLA]

an excellent explanation sir. bravo!

 

[betterbuilt]

So I finally got a chance to see and operate a Masonary stove. At first I wasn't so impressed. After firing 2 twice a day, for a few days I was impressed. loading it with 5-6 pieces of wood each time, I began to see how little wood it consumed. I bet I use 2 to three times that in a day. What impressed me the most was after not firing for 16 hours or so, it was still radiating 120-140 degree temps. I'll be building one this year hopefully.