I've about had it with pull ropes

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I very seldom break a recoil rope or handle but;
I've got a neighbor that can break recoil assemblies, clutch dogs, ropes, handles.
He just does not know any different. He is also not mechanically inclined and strong as two oxen, but half as smart.
I would not be surprised if he sheared a flywheel key on a chainsaw.
He asked me to look at his 2 cycle operated jackhammer. He had yanked it so hard that the recoil nut sheared the crankshaft threads. It was China made but still yet. The recoil assembly was not on the flywheel side.
He just grabs the rope and instead of pulling at first, he starts yanking and jerking IMMEDIATELY.
If a engine happens to be slightly hydro locked or has any resistance at all to getting cranked something is going to get broke.
This guy would make tool rental places suffer great pains.
 
Put Good vibrations D handles on my gas engines to be easier to start. The break within 5 starts or less so I went back to the Stihl Elastostart. Lasted 2 pulls. I've had hundreds of Stihl saws since 1972 and I am almost ready to try another brand. Not what they used to be. I'm getting old, not stronger yet the parts are getting weaker and made for tiny little school girls. I'm 5'6, 150 pounds. How do you big brutes get anything to last an hour now days? View attachment 1149372View attachment 1149373View attachment 1149374
What saw is this a problem with?
 
I have a 660 with the decomp blocked off, and it used to hurt my fingers sometimes when trying to start it, so I got a D-handle from a 460 Rescue, then rigged it with a coil spring for a homebrew "Elastostart." Seems to work well.

D-Handle-Elastostart.jpg


Not sure how you're breaking ropes and handles all the time...are you pulling the slack out of the rope and engaging the starter pawl dogs first before yanking the bejesus out of it? (I find it also helps if you pull the rope until the piston is on the compression stroke first...if you just pull the rope slow with it on choke for a few revolutions, then all you have to do is yank the rope a foot or less to pop it past TDC and it will often start...don't really need to pull the rope all the way out to the stop...)
 
Got to use stihl D ring handles made for fire depts for demo saws with rescue handles. They dont break. Buy OEM stihl for 5-7 bucks. Only D ring I suggest, used, and install for folks today still.

Need a big knot with washer inside if you dont have big knot to stop from pulling through.



sdhan.jpgs034ssssss.jpgs390l.jpgs084d.jpgp3300dring.jpgCH3120.JPG
 
If you can't drop a saw, you can't cut wood. It is the "MAN'S" way!
Even so, it needs to be done correctly.
Get it up to compression with the dogs engaged, then pull.
Just yanking puts a whole lot more stress on the starter from the flywheel key to the handle.
I have tried other brands of rope. The Stihl rope outlasts most of them. It must be the correct diameter and length.
The mechanism must have enough spring tension to pull it back in completely and the rope bushing cannot be worn through.
Fixed a lot of issues by cleaning or replacing the rewind spring.
Even works on the MS250!

Let the tomatoes fly.
 
I used to drop start when I was younger. Been on one form or another of chemo since 2006 which has kept me alive but too weak to handle drop starting. The 440, 660, 084 and garden tiller all got d handles a few years ago. Tiller broke 1 of the good vibration brand. I decided to to the $30 stihl elasto start because the 440 and 660 would pop the comp release 1st hit on choke, then if I didn't remember to punch it again, kick back and yank the crap out of my fingers and forearm next pull. Oddly, I obtained a chinese knock off elasto start pull rope and it has worked fine for 2 days. Dozens of stihl dealers here but all say they have to order the D handle plus I have to pay UPS shipping. Service has really gone to crap since Crader bought the Texas warehouse years ago. Most of the time I am cleaning up downed trees on the farm and have anywhere from 20" (sometimes) to 36", even 48" (sometimes) bar with full chisel so not only dangerous but too bar heavy with long bars to drop start. As to the worn eyelet: I never have worn one out and the tree trimmers usually buy my saws before I get much wear on them. Never break the rope, just the cheap weak handles. All ropes are factory length. I don't have a problem with too short of a rope. Hitting the end of a short rope will piss a guy off in a second.
 
Hahaha putting D handle start handles on your saw is all I need to know your a goon of epic proportions. Keep breaking your saw cords we all know it’s a stihl problem and not a YOU problem. 🤦
 
Signinwoodwack, where did you find a 46cc 440? Best as I remember they are 50 cc and when new I put the overbore 460 cylinder and piston on them being the 440 is shorter and lighter so I think that boot it up to about 52-54cc. The next smallest saw I have is an MS200 rear handle and I think it is about 35cc. A d handle on that would be overkill and the handle would be bigger than the saw.
 
Hahaha putting D handle start handles on your saw is all I need to know your a goon of epic proportions. Keep breaking your saw cords we all know it’s a stihl problem and not a YOU problem. 🤦
Wife asked why ever posted anything here because every time ever in the past it devolved to insults and people trying to be an @$$. At least the blue rope and self made elasto start with the stihl handle were helpful comments. As stated Mr. Name Caller, the rope does not break, it is the handle that comes part of the assembly. Since you have difficulty comprehending the script, please look at the pictures.
 
Hahaha putting D handle start handles on your saw is all I need to know your a goon of epic proportions. Keep breaking your saw cords we all know it’s a stihl problem and not a YOU problem. 🤦
Seriously? Run along child, the adults are talking. D handles on saws are very common, bet your local fire department has them on all their saws

Some people's kids, I swear......
 
For real. Soon as I saw. D style handle I knew this guy is doing some wrong. You don’t just break starter pull handles in a few pulls. Nobody does. The only thing wrong here is the OPERATOR or the mechanic who put his pull rope on.
 
Doubt there is a mechanic issue. I have repaired saws for tree trimmers and farmers in the area for 20 years as it one thing easy to do when I can't work otherwise and even when the economy sucks the repeat business they give me is great. I stock more Stihl parts than any dealer in the area but I do work exclusively on Stihl in the 044-MS461, and the 066 to MS661 range saws with an occasional MS200 or MS880 and they all know I have every part they might need. Tree trimmer about 60 miles from me tells me they break a lot of handles too.
 
Signinwoodwack, where did you find a 46cc 440? Best as I remember they are 50 cc and when new I put the overbore 460 cylinder and piston on them being the 440 is shorter and lighter so I think that boot it up to about 52-54cc. The next smallest saw I have is an MS200 rear handle and I think it is about 35cc. A d handle on that would be overkill and the handle would be bigger than the saw.
The Senix in question is 46cc
440/460 Stihl or Husky? Slight difference:p
 
I would find that D handle getting in my way. Lots. Even the regular handle gets in my way occasionally when limbing. Well, when moving around when limbing.

I've never seen a D handle on a lumberjack's saw. Ever.

I really dig that spring idea on the handle tho.👍
 
If you can't drop a saw, you can't cut wood. It is the "MAN'S" way!
Even so, it needs to be done correctly.
Get it up to compression with the dogs engaged, then pull.
Just yanking puts a whole lot more stress on the starter from the flywheel key to the handle.
I have tried other brands of rope. The Stihl rope outlasts most of them. It must be the correct diameter and length.
The mechanism must have enough spring tension to pull it back in completely and the rope bushing cannot be worn through.
Fixed a lot of issues by cleaning or replacing the rewind spring.
Even works on the MS250!

Let the tomatoes fly.
I would be interested to hear which lubricant (if any) you find most satisfactory on a cleaned starter spring ?
 
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