Jerky Pull Cord

[Cpcook]

Hey all,
I just bought a 250 ms Stihl from my local Ace. After fueling it up and putting the chain oil in I went to start it and the pull cord was extremely jerky. After trying to start a few more time I feared that I had flooded so I took off the spark plug and after doing that it seemed to pull fine. But when I put the spark plug back on it once again became extremely jerky and it was impossible to get a clean pull out of it. What can I do to fix this?

 

[cookies]

pull start it like you mean it or return it for a different model

 

[HansFranz]

Have you ever started a chainsaw before? Not sure what you mean by "jerky." As in "compression" like starting a lawnmower or outboard?

 

[sundance]

@HansFranz ,ever started a MS250? If you'd tried you would most likely know exactly what he's talking about.

This is a very common complaint with them. I've never seen a solution. Lots of "you have to really pull it" responses. I can't "really pull" mine. Maybe someone can....
and, yes I have a number of other saws and no issues starting them.

 

[HansFranz]

Huh. Interesting. I wonder why. A friend of mine has a Stihl somewhere in that size range but I never noticed anything unusual about his...

 

[sundance]

Huh. Interesting. I wonder why. A friend of mine has a Stihl somewhere in that size range but I never noticed anything unusual about his...

Common thought seems to be that the "pulley" is too small for the engine size coupled with high compression. Lots of threads on here about issues with starting this series saw.

 

[stihltech]

Hardest starting (pull) saw we have. Pull slowly up to compression and then pull "like you really mean it". Not a saw for those who cannot pull oner a saw well. Or get the start assist C model.
That being said it is still one of our best consumer saws due to weight and power. IMHO.

 

[HansFranz]

Hardest starting (pull) saw we have.

So, harder than (for example) a 660 with the decomp blocked off?

There's always this option:

...but it might look a little funny on a 250...

 

[mountainlake]

Piss poor design on the recoil system. Make sure you have as much rope as you can on the recoil. Steve

 

[Okie]

You just bought it NEW and it's jerky pull.

Why don't you get it back to them FAST.

That is a common complaint for that saw model and you will have to live with it from now on if you do not return and trade it in on a different model. Do not buy into the theory that it will get better as it run in. Only thing that might get better is your shoulder and arm muscles if you do not rip a ligament first.

All kinds of complaints like yours scattered around on the internet about that model.

I have a pile of Stihls and my like new MS250 is the only one of the pile I usually do not reach for due to your complaint. I slowly bring mine up to the compression then pull through, then immediately come back again. I have to get mean and aggressive with the MS250 and the pull rope feels like it could just break sometimes.
Mine takes several hard pulls when cold and not used used for couple weeks.

 

[sundance]

So, harder than (for example) a 660 with the decomp blocked off?

There's always this option:

...but it might look a little funny on a 250...

Tried it, didn't help much. Did look a bit funny.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Hey all,
I just bought a 250 ms Stihl from my local Ace. After fueling it up and putting the chain oil in I went to start it and the pull cord was extremely jerky. After trying to start a few more time I feared that I had flooded so I took off the spark plug and after doing that it seemed to pull fine. But when I put the spark plug back on it once again became extremely jerky and it was impossible to get a clean pull out of it. What can I do to fix this?

We get lots of these complaints here about the MS250, 025, etc. being hard to pull. Maybe that's why Stihl five years ago brought out the EZ start device that gives you a spring assist. My 251c has it, and it works. I bought mine from its late owner whose widow sold it to me. It's the only saw I have with a mechanical assist like that. Most bigger saws assist you with a decompression valve instead.

 

[ChuckMI]

So, harder than (for example) a 660 with the decomp blocked off?

There's always this option:

...but it might look a little funny on a 250...

I have something like that on my 250. Yes, it looks funny, but it works.

 

[Alleycat]

I disagree with most of the replys here. I have an MS 270 that strted doing the same thing after sitting up for a couple of months. I have to stick a board through the handle and step on it in order to pull the rope at all. With the rewind cover off and the spark plug in place, I can roll the saw over by turning the flywheel with a few fingers gripping it. The problem has to be something binding in the rewind system. Especially since the problem just started after several years of normal operation. I am going to take the rewind apart today and see if I notice any obvious wear that may be causing the problem.

 

[cookies]

I have seen several reasons for this, this guys saw is new and needs several hours of use to break in before the engine will turn over easier. Failures I have figured out and repaired that cause hard to pull over starting include
worn starter pulley, worn starter shaft, starter rope too short or incorrect diameter, dirty or damaged starter clock spring, internally leaking carb, carb L set too rich, oil gummed piston rings, incorrect spark plug, improper coil gap, failed/failing ignition coil advance circuit, carbon build up.

 

[Kenskip1]

Could this be a timing issue? Try this stunt. With the ignition switch in the OFF position give it a few pulls. Is it easier to pull?