Jonsered 621

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eyolf

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OK, I'm a sucker, and just recieved another <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2076805749">saw</a> from an Ebay seller. I believed it to be a 621 (unclear from auction) and still do. Without a decal or some part numbers, I have problems, and Jonsered made several other "silver top" models.

Saw starts and runs very well, compression shows at 110# with my guage, but my nearly-new 2149 and Husky 395 will only register 120 on the guage, so I'm confident the cylinder seals well. No obvious signs of leaking seals, wd40 also finds none. Oiler works well, so other than cosmetics I have an excellent saw.

I've never owned a 621, but am impressed with the performance. Saw came with 8-tooth rim sprocket; installed a newly filed Carlton round-filed chisel and attacked the frozen oak log I tested the Homies on last week. Saw has cojones, and what's more, seems to have the grunt to pull that 8-tooth sprocket. I am amazed at the mid-range torque; engine seems to still pull down to perhaps (estimate) 5000 rpm.

This leads to my question. Is it possible to identify the saw as a 621 or other model by any external features? It seems to have too much power for a 3.4 cu in saw.

Eagerly awaiting replies.
 
Can't help with the ID-ing much, other than it looks bigger than a 621. Is that bar a 20" (23" minus~3" for saw body) that came with it? Love those silvertops...

How did the deal go with that seller? I bought a DVD player from them a while ago. It was advertised as broken, but the description was way off target and pretty misleading. Much worse than described. By the time I got back from vacation etc. it was too late for a refund.
 
No problems at all with seller; extremely quick ship. Pretty obvious that recent owner knew little about chain saws, but not enough to hurt anything bad. Maybe on the weekend I will dismantle the saw and measure bore and stroke.
 
I just had an idea. Find a part number on something like the cylinder or maybe the clutch cover. Email George Blake and see what it fits.
 
The amount (lack of) compression leads me to believe it's a 621 as they started awfully easy when broke in . It can't be an 80 (which is also a silver top) , as it would let you know when you pulled its' string , but I can't figger out why/how it can pull an 8 tooth sprocket so well .. How long is the bar ,,,,,,,,,,weigh it.
 
Whistler

I believe we determined that his compression gauge was reading low a few months ago. He tested several pieces of equipment, old and new, and even the best were only reading 120-125. So 110 on his gauge might be equal to 130 or so on a different gauge.
 
Thanks, gatkeper. I found a couple of differences: muffler is different (has a removeable plate above the regular mounting screws (to decarbonize?) and the switch mounts in the rewind side of the case 1/2, not the top cover.

Husky: if you want to see what else is on the site, delete the back part of the address in the "location:" bar and hit enter; you'll surf to the root page, and many times can locate stuff that way. I went there and it looks like there are a few models not accounted for.

I know my saw is not a 60E or 70E, but it could possibly be a 60, 601, 80 or 75/751. We'll see this weekend. I have local resources, too. If all else fails, I will borrow a digital camera (I'm too cheap to buy one as good as I want, will not waste my $$ on a low-end one!)
 
Eyolf, what price range are you looking for in a camera? I have a bunch of not cheap, but high quality smaller cameras. All 1.3MP, Fuji, Olympus, HP, Polaroid, and Casio. The photos are great for anything but large-size printouts. $75-110 depending on the camera.
 
I don't even know , really, what I'm looking for. The only digi camera I have experience with is the Sony Mavicas we use at work; we use them for mpeg movies as well as stills to communicate things to our customers and for recordkeeping (pictures tell a thousand words).

I like them for their use of floppys; any computer with a drive works and you can open a picture up in paintbrush if you want to, but overall photo quality isn't that great for the price.

I really should do some research again to see what's out there.
 
last entry:

Well, bore is at 1.77, stroke at 1.377, converted to MM, that makes 35x45, so it has to be either a 601 or 621.

Can still see machine marks on the piston, and there's no scratches visible inside. The silver paint on the cap is awful (pretty normal for some of the other silver-caps I've seen), and the dang thing needs a thorough cleaning. Some places I look for signs of wear on small-engine stuff are inside rewind/clutch assy, clutch, sprocket, carbon in muffler, wear patterns on handles and grips etc.

Everything looks pretty good on this saw. I needed an excuse to stop by the power shop any way, and now I can say I "need" a new air filter, spark plug and one or two anti-vibe mounts.
 
All silvertops are flaking these days. It looks like Jonsey didn't use a decent/any primer. If I could get new stickers for mine, I'd respray the top with a nice etching primer.
 

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