Jonsered 625/630/670 etc questions port or not to port??

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I definitely would have used the 2050 more since I have not even run one tank of fuel through this 2094 since I got it. It makes a colourful shelf queen.
Pioneerguy600

Jerry, you have a PM... lol (kidding) I have a NEW 2050, if you'd like to trade back :D :clap: hell, I'd throw some $$ in too! lol

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Oh, and the bar cover! :clap:

The 2055 is a real hot rod saw when muff modded and a mild port job! I picked one up needing a piston. Now my 2054's all stay at home when I cut firewood. the 630super takes care of the big stuff and the 2055 does the cleanup. I've got a 670 thats needing a piston but I'm in no hurry, its probably too heavy for my 70 year old arms to operate anyway!

I have a good 670 piston (no rings though) If you'd like to sell/trade the saw, or I might part with the piston (as I have no use for it currently)...


Yeah I used to like Jerry but now I'm not so sure........taking advantage of that ol guy....

EXACTLY!!! lol


...If you can run the 630 you could run the 670 even better. Might even be less work!! Both great saws.

I'd agree...





ANYWAY! back on Topic, you ramblin' fools:chatter:...:D

Just cleaned the 625 today...WOW that saw is clean... I'll post some pics tomorrow...MAYBE just broken in.


I don't have a 670, (...replying to the comment of not wasting time with the 625, but to start with the 670)

I need to do SOMETHING with the muffler (missing the outlet for the muffler and the screen... should I weld it up and add some ports to the front edge? if so, what size pipe would make sense (and what should I use...)

The other thing I NEED is a Clutch/brake cover...

As far as needing a bar stud, Just remembered I have two 670 cases & tanks, so I can steal one from there... are the studs just pressed in?


The 670 parts units have no top end, carb, plastic, coil etc...just misc fasteners, choke lever, flywheel...if anyone needs anything (one unit has a good bottom end and oiler, the other has a SMOKED big end rod bearing. there's METAL coming out from the rod end! :dizzy:



Thanks guys!

J
 
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Wish I could help you with your questions but I never had any IPL`S or manuals on the Jonsereds, did not have to order up any parts just dug through the box and found what I needed. I did not have to change any bar studs either so no experience there. Where is Lee, AKA Plant Biologist or now PB. along with Spike they know these red and blacks inside out.
Pioneerguy600
 
Yeah I know what you mean though, everything I cut around here can be done with that 61/268 or 70E or 80. Much as I would like a real big I really don't have a need. Doesn't mean I dont have a want though!!!

A 2094 is only a big saw until you get one, then you want a bigger saw and as you get each saw bigger than the last they sort of top out at 137 cc, where to go from there is the question.
Pioneerguy600
 
GR40 that stud change is ez. The back of the studs have a square. That fits into a recess in the case (inside the oil tank). Just pound in the old stud and shake it out of the oil tank. Clean out the tank so the oil is mostly gone. Put some sealant onto the back of the new stud. You can either fish the new stud through the hole with a thin wire wrapped around the threads or use long pliers/hemostates to start it through the hole. Put a large nut (or two) on for a spacer and use the bar nut to pull it tight into the recess inside the tank (line it up). Wait for the sealant to dry a little and you are good to go.
If the hole is wobbly because it has been hogged out, use JB weld instead of sealant and it will be in there for a long time. Check carefully around the hole after you clean it. The front stud takes alot of abuse from guys that like to horse the bar/spikes into a log. Sometimes the stud comes out because the case is cracked. If it is I have a case for you. There you have it, stud replacement 101 for your Jons! Mike
 
GR40 that stud change is ez. The back of the studs have a square. That fits into a recess in the case (inside the oil tank). Just pound in the old stud and shake it out of the oil tank. Clean out the tank so the oil is mostly gone. Put some sealant onto the back of the new stud. You can either fish the new stud through the hole with a thin wire wrapped around the threads or use long pliers/hemostates to start it through the hole. Put a large nut (or two) on for a spacer and use the bar nut to pull it tight into the recess inside the tank (line it up). Wait for the sealant to dry a little and you are good to go.
If the hole is wobbly because it has been hogged out, use JB weld instead of sealant and it will be in there for a long time. Check carefully around the hole after you clean it. The front stud takes alot of abuse from guys that like to horse the bar/spikes into a log. Sometimes the stud comes out because the case is cracked. If it is I have a case for you. There you have it, stud replacement 101 for your Jons! Mike

Mike,

thanks for the knowledge! I was thinking the same on removing it when I looked at it (no oil in the tank)... almost couldn't believe it went into the tank with a BIG open hole. I figured they'd be threaded. I'm wondering if some fool snapped the stud, and attempted to drill it out, only to have them fall forward into the tank!! lol :D:D

hmmm...damn horses, lol

Judging by the rest of the saw, VERY little use, so we'll see.

I have a 670 case here, from the discussion, I would think it's close enough to be the same.

Check your mail, BTW.

J
 
Those 2055 and 2050's are CLEAN saws.

And back to the 625, it's a great saw until you run a 630. I prefer the 670, but there was a time when I wanted one so bad, it will always be the perfect saw to me.

And Jerry, you are going to send me to an early grave if you keep bringing up that 2094, let alone posting pictures of it!
 
Those 2055 and 2050's are CLEAN saws...

yes, thank you. I would like to be blessed with more, like Jerry's 2094, in which it would be happy here, I'd feed it husky mix, a little on the rich side, and some red syn bar lube (I forget the name now...) :D:D


And Jerry, you are going to send me to an early grave if you keep bringing up that 2094, let alone posting pictures of it!


I agree.... ugh :rolleyes:

J
 
A 2094 is only a big saw until you get one, then you want a bigger saw and as you get each saw bigger than the last they sort of top out at 137 cc, where to go from there is the question.
Pioneerguy600

Yeah, everything is like that isn't it? I guess it's the "human condition" to want bigger, better, faster just because it's there, not because you need it or require it. Just....Just because LOL!!!!!:cheers:
 
Those 2055 and 2050's are CLEAN saws.

And back to the 625, it's a great saw until you run a 630. I prefer the 670, but there was a time when I wanted one so bad, it will always be the perfect saw to me.

And Jerry, you are going to send me to an early grave if you keep bringing up that 2094, let alone posting pictures of it!

Sorry for the picts but it`s the only saw that is always clean. LOL
Pioneerguy600
 
Yeah, everything is like that isn't it? I guess it's the "human condition" to want bigger, better, faster just because it's there, not because you need it or require it. Just....Just because LOL!!!!!:cheers:

I was tempted to port the 2094 but I got into doing up 7 Husqvarna 394 XP`s instead, they were a little more used and tattered looking so I did not mind porting them as they will have the P ran out of them. Just couldn`t bring myself to putting that saw through what the huskies will see.
Pioneerguy600
 
I was tempted to port the 2094 but I got into doing up 7 Husqvarna 394 XP`s instead, they were a little more used and tattered looking so I did not mind porting them as they will have the P ran out of them. Just couldn`t bring myself to putting that saw through what the huskies will see.
Pioneerguy600

Yep A ported work saw will never be any better than when new. Then it's to the woods and the real work begins. Doesn't matter what they look like just how dependable and fast they are. That 2094 will never be any better looking than it is in those pics. Every time it's used there'll be another little scratch or skuff. Better to keep it the way it is and let it's ugly brothers pull the load. Very nice looking saw. Course I'm partial to Red!!
 
All Jreds are junk :monkey:

With that said, my hybrid 672 makes me smile alot. 45$ in it, and it runs pretty well, just needs a tune.

Sure is ugly though. Jred case, gas tank and top cover. Husky recoil, clutch cover, and carb, p/c.
 
All Jreds are junk :monkey:

With that said, my hybrid 672 makes me smile alot. 45$ in it, and it runs pretty well, just needs a tune.

Sure is ugly though. Jred case, gas tank and top cover. Husky recoil, clutch cover, and carb, p/c.

Hmmmmm, sounds like something I'd like to do...
 
Have we found out if that 625 has open or closed ports yet? What is going on with the muffler?
Pioneerguy600

Don't know about the muffler but yes several posts back I said the 625 is 61cc open port and the 630 is 61cc closed port. Sharpen up ol boy!! LOLOLOL!! The 630 is the best one to put time into porting. They take well to it!! Mines a Super II which means it's a single ring, the Super and straight 630 is two ring.
 
Don't know about the muffler but yes several posts back I said the 625 is 61cc open port and the 630 is 61cc closed port. Sharpen up ol boy!! LOLOLOL!! The 630 is the best one to put time into porting. They take well to it!! Mines a Super II which means it's a single ring, the Super and straight 630 is two ring.

I was actually poking the OP to see if he has pulled the cylinder yet, one never knows what is in there until its either pulled or some borescoping is done. Even a muffler mod would improve the performance of the saw somewhat.
Pioneerguy600
 
I was actually poking the OP to see if he has pulled the cylinder yet, one never knows what is in there until its either pulled or some borescoping is done. Even a muffler mod would improve the performance of the saw somewhat.
Pioneerguy600

10-4 Jerry you are right. However as I said before (unless this 625 has been cross-pollenated with some kind of Husky) the 625 and 670 have external impulse lines and the 630 in internal like a Husky. Easy to tell what's what with the air filter off. But as you said until the cyl is pulled it is hard to know for sure.
Also agree there are things to be done to help out the 625, but if you have both and can choose the 630 or 670 closed port is a better choice to invest time in modifying. IMHO.
 
Have we found out if that 625 has open or closed ports yet? What is going on with the muffler?
Pioneerguy600

Muffler will be modded tomorrow. ( how in the h*ll do I get the two halves part? heat and pry??) I did buy a H 55 closed port that the muffler fell in two pieces...lol

pulling the cyl this afternoon.

Don't know about the muffler but yes several posts back I said the 625 is 61cc open port and the 630 is 61cc closed port. Sharpen up ol boy!! LOLOLOL!! The 630 is the best one to put time into porting. They take well to it!! Mines a Super II which means it's a single ring, the Super and straight 630 is two ring.

so is a one ring better? I thought 2 rings would be better?

I was actually poking the OP to see if he has pulled the cylinder yet, one never knows what is in there until its either pulled or some borescoping is done. Even a muffler mod would improve the performance of the saw somewhat.
Pioneerguy600

ouch!

10-4 Jerry you are right. However as I said before (unless this 625 has been cross-pollenated with some kind of Husky) the 625 and 670 have external impulse lines and the 630 in internal like a Husky. Easy to tell what's what with the air filter off. But as you said until the cyl is pulled it is hard to know for sure.
Also agree there are things to be done to help out the 625, but if you have both and can choose the 630 or 670 closed port is a better choice to invest time in modifying. IMHO.

I'd be excited to see it was a 670. but a measurement works....

J
 

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