Jonsered 625/630/670 etc questions port or not to port??

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you dont get the muffler in half. they are a 1 piece muffler. just open up the outlet,(remove the flap) and install the deflector. you may also want to install another deflector on the left side and make it a duel port. good luck Rick!
 
Muffler will be modded tomorrow. ( how in the h*ll do I get the two halves part? heat and pry??) I did buy a H 55 closed port that the muffler fell in two pieces...lol

pulling the cyl this afternoon.



so is a one ring better? I thought 2 rings would be better?



ouch!



I'd be excited to see it was a 670. but a measurement works....

J

Single ring is faster so they say. Less friction, less weight. Better for modding. But as a general rule I prefer 2 rings over one myself in your average stock saw.
Those muflers are pretty hollow stock, use the rooster's advice!! That works well with two deflectors.

P.S. I usually drill 2-3 half inch holes in the baffle through the exhaust inlet too!!
 
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My two rough old "work" J-reds. I really enjoy them both & they get a lot of real use. That 2094 has so much compression, its hard on the pull start. Some day I want to switch it over to the new barrel with the compression release....


For now its, Mildly ported....Modded the muffler by closing off the origional outlet and put in two tubes. The thing is hard to pull over but starts first or second pull...idles nice and has instant throttle response and is really, really strong. Much stronger than either my 820 or 920.

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820 has a Golf Piston rebuild with modded muffler. Runs really well. Easy to start, and idles nice...doesn't get hot after a cut like I did to hog out that beam. Great all around work saw.

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Got it back together.

opened up the muffler with a few holes in the inner baffle, and opened up the outlet. made a deflector with an old piece of a trashed 55 muffler. looks good/

havin an issue with the carb...seems like it's pushing a TON of fuel.

I have the screws set just a hair over 1 turn. was hard to restart, seems like too much fuel. ( I can see it backing up into the carb 90...)

atleast, that's what it seemed.

I'll check again.



What should the screws be set at??

J
 
Got it back together.

opened up the muffler with a few holes in the inner baffle, and opened up the outlet. made a deflector with an old piece of a trashed 55 muffler. looks good/

havin an issue with the carb...seems like it's pushing a TON of fuel.

I have the screws set just a hair over 1 turn. was hard to restart, seems like too much fuel. ( I can see it backing up into the carb 90...)

atleast, that's what it seemed.

I'll check again.

What should I be setting the screws to??


ANYONE have a clutch cover for this saw???? help.


THANKS!!

J
 
Mine is mix and matched with a Husky clutch cover :D

Just saying... I know you said it was minty, but that could be a solution if you want to run it.
 
Mine is mix and matched with a Husky clutch cover :D

Just saying... I know you said it was minty, but that could be a solution if you want to run it.

hmm...

I was told by one person the 600-series j-red shares cases with the Husky 272, etc...sound right? the covers are physically different correct? as I could paint it, etc...



I'm having issues with the carb delivering too much fuel...any thoughts ( I hope someone didn't mess up the carb by overtightening the screws....UGH.)

anything out of the ordinary here??:

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Is there supposed to be a restrictor in the impulse line?




here's some more:
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here's some of the 630Super.

bought this for, well, cheap. Guy said his brother left it in his truck box in the rain, and maybe the muffler was filled with water cause it didn't sound right, and wouldn't rev up. But would start.

It pulled over 170psi. I had no idea it was in this shape till it was cleaned...it was a mess.

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Here's the custom deflector I made for the 625, as it was missing:


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The reason the 630 super would not throttle up:

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screen was over 85% clogged!!!
 
J, most everything swaps over. But I am pretty sure you can not mix and match the cases and tanks. Have to be either/or.

And I am not sure if the Husky cover would fit on a 625 either. But my 672:)
has a 272 clutch cover, but needs some work on the chain brake.

Saws look good!
 
Yep the exhaust screen is the first place I look if the saw is having trouble coming up to speed. If your carb is delivering to much fuel it is probably the metering valve in the carb not seating properly. Which is probably best solved with a new carb kit and a good cleaning. One other reason could be a wimpy metering lever spring this will also cause the valve to not seat tightly enough. This is rare but a guy on here had this happen and had a hard time finding the problem. So just passing this info along.
Nice looking 625 and good score if the only problem was the screen!!!
 
Oh I forgot!! The clutch cover from a 61, 66,266,268,272 will fit the 600 series Jreds But it looks different as it extends back more and covers the mounting bolts and lower part of the top handle. The Jred one stops just before the handle. My 630 came to me with a Husky cover and brake that was broken on the rear so I cut it off clean with sawdust deflector and painted it red. Not sure if the Husky one HAS to be cut off to fit the Jred or not. Mine was just ragged so I cleaned it up a bit. It works great. Good luck.
 
Yep the exhaust screen is the first place I look if the saw is having trouble coming up to speed. If your carb is delivering to much fuel it is probably the metering valve in the carb not seating properly. Which is probably best solved with a new carb kit and a good cleaning. One other reason could be a wimpy metering lever spring this will also cause the valve to not seat tightly enough. This is rare but a guy on here had this happen and had a hard time finding the problem. So just passing this info along.
Nice looking 625 and good score if the only problem was the screen!!!

hmm... stupid me. I took the carb apart, and NEVER cleaned down the metering hole, or the valve. probably varnished up.

I was worried someone ruined the carb body by seating the needles too much.

Jay
 
Ah....that's better.

Took the carb out yesterday, and went through it again...must have been a dirty seat. or metering valve..

THANK YOU EVERYONE!!! Saw runs great, idles good, throttles up INSTANTLY. bar will be on tomorrow for a test cut. i gotta get some new logs...:chainsaw:

being that i have the 630 to play with, i was going to put the 625 up for offer...

i was going to donate my nice chainbrake from my 630 to the 625 for this purpose, but i'm reluctant, as they seem to be hard to obtain...been watching EVILbay for 2.5 weeks...

thoughts on value of the 625?

thanks guys!!!!!
 
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Good God what a nice trade, DANG I'm jealous....:msp_sneaky:

The 2094 I got in trade for the 2050, not touched,just the way I got it.

The older gentleman that I traded with told me that this is the original bar and chain that the dealer put on the saw the day he bought it new. It does not have a decomp and he did not have the strength to start it, he needed a smaller easier starting saw, so that`s what I traded him.
Pioneerguy600
 
Differences

The 625 is the same thing basically as the Husky 61. Some differences but a 48MM, 61cc open port motor. Some gains by porting but still open port. Probably best left stock. The 630 is the same cc but with closed port cyl and windowed piston. Way better choice to port IMHO. I have (as you can see in my sig) a 630 Super II that I ported to about 58% and that runs real strong, turns 14,400 easy, 4 stroking hard. Very nice saw to use. I don't have a complete 670 but they are as you said, 50MM bore 67cc and are about the same as the Husky 268XP. Again Husky and Jred set things up a bit different but are about the same in the end. Again as you see (in my sig) I have a 61/268XP conversion that I ported to 63% and added a 670 (250A Tilly) carb which was a little tricky but doable and this saw is much more powerful than my 630, as it should be. I think you would be happy with porting the 630 or the 670 but I would probably not bother porting the 625. If it's in as good shape as you say it will cut good as is and will last for yrs with normal care.:cheers:
I just got a super 2 ad could not find anything on it. 14 400rpm thank you. I've been trying to tune it but I was afraid of over revving it. Is there anything else particular to tuning this saw?
 
I just got a super 2 ad could not find anything on it. 14 400rpm thank you. I've been trying to tune it but I was afraid of over revving it. Is there anything else particular to tuning this saw?
14,400 is for my ported saw....13,000 is max WOT no load for a stock 630. Mine runs decent when tuned to 13,000 but burns a ton of fuel.....it runs better when tuned to 14,400 and the economy is more in line whith a stock 630. Generally most folks will tune 500 below max WOT on a stock saw. You won't over rev your stock saw RPM wise tuned to 14,400 but that is to lean and you will risk burning it up when under load. Stock I'd tune it to 12,500 -13,000 to remain safe.
 
14,400 is for my ported saw....13,000 is max WOT no load for a stock 630. Mine runs decent when tuned to 13,000 but burns a ton of fuel.....it runs better when tuned to 14,400 and the economy is more in line whith a stock 630. Generally most folks will tune 500 below max WOT on a stock saw. You won't over rev your stock saw RPM wise tuned to 14,400 but that is to lean and you will risk burning it up when under load. Stock I'd tune it to 12,500 -13,000 to remain safe.
Good information, thanks. So if I'm understanding then it isn't the speed itself that damages a saw but what brought it to that speed? This is my first saw tbh. Sounds crazy but I needed a firewood saw and it was a great deal and in excellent condition. I I just need to learn how to keep it that way.
 
Good information, thanks. So if I'm understanding then it isn't the speed itself that damages a saw but what brought it to that speed? This is my first saw tbh. Sounds crazy but I needed a firewood saw and it was a great deal and in excellent condition. I I just need to learn how to keep it that way.
If you are new and don't know how to tune by ear I suggest buying a tach. Fastack is a decent brand......cheap insurance. Adjust the "H" to achieve the desided rpm......clockwise is lean and it will speed up....counterclockwise is rich and will slow it down.
 
If you are new and don't know how to tune by ear I suggest buying a tach. Fastack is a decent brand......cheap insurance. Adjust the "H" to achieve the desided rpm......clockwise is lean and it will speed up....counterclockwise is rich and will slow it down.
Came in a few days ago lol. Following the owners manual I left it at H 1¼ until now when I can check. I'm trying to listen for that 4 stroking at wot but I wanted to wait. Based on how it goes and the readings from the tachh, my temp gun and how the plug looks then I'll be confident that it's running fine until I get used to the sound. And from all I've read it sounds like I should be using a more oil rich mix so I'll have to adjust for that too. And the 20" bar should slow the rpms slightly from the stock configuration. I think I'm soaking it all in well, she really is a beauty
Thanks
 

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