WoodDean
ArboristSite Guru
Yes they did Robin!!!! And I put them to good use, thanks again! New rings and gaskets are installed.
Jonsered Chainsaws
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WoodDean
ArboristSite Guru
I love NOS chainsaw parts. Here's the shroud and sticker. Lowes had the Allen bolts.
WoodDean
ArboristSite Guru
Right side.
WoodDean
ArboristSite Guru
Left.
WoodDean
ArboristSite Guru
I was able to get it to run for a little, but it died like it was out of gas. I think the felt needs some time to absorb gas. SOB is HARD to pull . . . . . .
Anyone know why these in the top cover? What would have been mounted there? It looks factory installed.
Anyone know why these in the top cover? What would have been mounted there? It looks factory installed.
Ummmmm.................... Is the primary winding on the coil exposed to the elements like that?
It be the first coil I've ever seen that is not enclosed or encapsulated.
Yeah coil sits like that under the flywheel. My 80 went for 13yrs without an adjustment, so it's a decent system. Points are in a felt sealed box. Coil is shellacked or varnished.There's a very cool way to waterproof a coil if you're interested.
Kevin
Kevin
There's supposed to be a black plastic, hand guard up on the top. I have one, but never use it....looks clunky and unprofessional...been then so does a chain brake, to me.
I think you have more than the felt filter getting soaked, going on there. Not trying to buy you trouble, but it sounds like gas starvation....probably not the filter if it's new. OTOH, if it's the OE filter...it could be plugged with varnish you didn't get all out. I'm just thinking of things out loud....you didn't try to adjust that point plate itself did you? Because if you did, you probably put the saw out of time.
You need to give up on 'er and sell me the saw.
Kevin
WoodDean
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks Kevin, the hand guard now makes sense. It's definitely starvation. I used the original filter, which was probably a stupid thing, I'll put a new one on tomorrow.
I did lift the cover off the points to make sure everything was in place, set the gap at .020 and covered it up.
I think I'm going to work with it at least one more day before I sell it . . . . . . .
I did lift the cover off the points to make sure everything was in place, set the gap at .020 and covered it up.
I think I'm going to work with it at least one more day before I sell it . . . . . . .
Thanks Kevin, the hand guard now makes sense. It's definitely starvation. I used the original filter, which was probably a stupid thing, I'll put a new one on tomorrow.
I did lift the cover off the points to make sure everything was in place, set the gap at .020 and covered it up.
Give me one more day with it . . . . . . .
Yeah, I was gonna suggest to pork one of those 'white wonder' filters they sell for all our saws now. It's fine to adjust the points to spec by loosening the point adj screw etc....I was talking about the big plate the assembly sits on with the two bolts....nay nay on adjusting the gap with that plate. So it's probably not that anyway....I'm hoping it's just the filter.
If those OE filters ever sat so long in stale gas they got varnished....I think the only thing to clear them would be soaking in lacquer thinner.
Kevin
WoodDean
ArboristSite Guru
I'm fairly sure I have one of those filters. I cant wait to get it up to full rpm.
Speaking of which, I should probably be following some procedure to seat those rings shouldn't I?
I've read where folks will perform a "warm up and cool down" cycle about three or four times before opening the throttle up and getting into wood.
Anyone have an opinion or experience? Is it different for the bigger saws?
Speaking of which, I should probably be following some procedure to seat those rings shouldn't I?
I've read where folks will perform a "warm up and cool down" cycle about three or four times before opening the throttle up and getting into wood.
Anyone have an opinion or experience? Is it different for the bigger saws?
We asked the 'experts' back in the day and they said to just run the dogsh*t out of them for break in. I think cycling like you said couldn't hurt anything. Considering a lot of tuners just throw rings in without cross-hatch honing the cylinders slightly, it must not be a big deal. And especially when they say the compression gets better as you work it a bit....
Kevin
Kevin
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
Carl, it looks like your(?) 670 Super has the West Coast package, full wrap and K&N filter. I notice that it has the earlier chainbrake with the metal knee-joint. When you go to test the saw under load, keep an eye on the CB, they can seem perfectly tight but slip into the engaged position under load. Many people have had no issues with the knee-joints, I've had three Jreds with bad knee-joints. Someone here was going to do some tinkering with them, I sent him a crapped out knee-joint CB, but I don't recall him posting any results.
With all the snow, it will be a couple days before I can get to Sears for a 5mm 'T' handle wrench. Weather the cylinder will clean up is the question.
35 deg. in the garage. Not saw tinkering today....................................
35 deg. in the garage. Not saw tinkering today....................................
Cylinder will probably clean up with some polishing or very light honing. Bailey's has a vid on using their hones and youtube has a vid of a guy just polishing jugs with his own bits & methods.
Kevin
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That's not the spark coil...it's actually a magneto/generator coil that provides the power for the spark coil which is waterproof and encased in black plastic as you imagine......the spark coil is separate and mounts under the top cover and is not timed by the flywheel but by the points. This ign system is common to the models 60, 601, 62, 621, 751, 80, 81, 801 and 90 and maybe a few others.
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Thanks Kevin, the hand guard now makes sense. It's definitely starvation. I used the original filter, which was probably a stupid thing, I'll put a new one on tomorrow.
I did lift the cover off the points to make sure everything was in place, set the gap at .020 and covered it up.
I think I'm going to work with it at least one more day before I sell it . . . . . . .
Your 90 is looking good Dean!! The point gap should be 0.014"-0.016" according to the book. I always set mine to 0.016"...point gap/dwell affects spark timing.....to close retards timing ...to far open advances timing...
Sorry it's not running good yet.....hope a filter replacement cures it....if not make sure your metering lever is set/adjusted correctly and that the nub on the diaphragm is engaged in the slot in the metering lever.....
Break in is not a big deal.....I generally do a couple warm up/cool downs and recheck screws especially muffler and cyl bolts for tightness....rings will take care of themselves and seat/wear in while in use.
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Driver...That's a nice looking "West Coast" 670 Super.....and yep that's the piston you'll be needing...hope that cyl cleans up for you....I am always looking for that saw model.....not many left around in good shape.....here's a couple pics of it's little brother, a 630 "West Coast" that I got from Idaho or Utah can't remember....
WoodDean
ArboristSite Guru
Hey Robin, a bit more positive results today but still not running smoothly. Starting isn't a problem, usually fires on the first or second pull but keeping it running is difficult. Runs ok with the choke pulled halfway out. When I push the choke in, the engine surges for a bit then dies. When I work the throttle it slowly dies like it's starved. I've kept it running for maybe a minute if I keep the choke at halfway. If I attempt to move it either direction it dies.
Seems carb related to me. I'm going to check the metering level and the diaphragm again.
On the above carb. deal: Setting the metering lever level with chamber floor don't always work. I've had similar issues with one I raised it 1/64-1/32 above and the problem cleared up. May just have been a shorter than normal needle.
