Jonsered Chainsaws
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WoodDean
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ok, tried the washer trick, same spark. Swapped the rewind coils, same spark. So I figured it's got to be in the points plate.
Might be the condenser. Seems I get a spark at the beginning of the pull, then toward the end of the pull-stroke as it's rotating faster there isn't a spark.
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OK......worth a shot.......sorry that wasn't it.....now, did you file and gap the points properly when you had it apart??
WoodDean
ArboristSite Guru
no, no ,no . . . . don't apologize. Every hint and clue is a step closer. I come here for the help from the experts who've been inside more of these saws than I'll ever be.
Here are two ways to test condensers;
The proper way to test condensers/ capacitors is with a capacitance meter. You can type in the words capacitance meter in either YAHOO, or GOOGLE, and several companies that make and sell them should show up.
A capacitance meter measures mfd micro ferads. The mfd's are the ability to store energy until it is released. Simply having a condensor that is'nt shorted out is not enough.... To high of a capacitance will cause one side of your points to pit, and the other side to peak up whereas the points don't get a good flat contact. to low of a capacitance causes the same effect in the opposite surfaces. You can buy condensers of specific mfd capacitance for the application needed. For instance a Maytag 92 uses a condenser of about .20mfd's the solid state capacitors work also, but there has been some discussion as to them holding up under vibration, and heat. I know they work well in some applications. If you can't afford a capacitance meter, most automotive electric shops will have one, and some parts stores. probably not the chain auto stores. Now I'll probably have 87 experts tell me I am wrong, but that's my story and I'm sticking to it. I does matter what the mfd capacitance for what application is or is required. other wise you will just burn up the points ....pitting, peaking etc.
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I do a functional check on capacitors , or condensers if you like , using a simple analog volt meter, the old kind with a meter that has a needle. Basically, set the meter to the olms setting and measure the resistance. For a good capacitor, the needle should jump towards zero then move towards infinity as you make contact with it. Then switch the meter leads and do it again. This time the needle should jump about twice as far. The first time you are putting a charge of 1.5 volts on the capacitor. When you reverse the leads, you are reversing the charge so the needle will jump further. One end of the capacitor must be disconnected from the circuit. If the meter has some selection, choose a high resistence range.
If the needle stops at a resistance value other than infinity, it is leaking the charge and is bad.
Kevin
The proper way to test condensers/ capacitors is with a capacitance meter. You can type in the words capacitance meter in either YAHOO, or GOOGLE, and several companies that make and sell them should show up.
A capacitance meter measures mfd micro ferads. The mfd's are the ability to store energy until it is released. Simply having a condensor that is'nt shorted out is not enough.... To high of a capacitance will cause one side of your points to pit, and the other side to peak up whereas the points don't get a good flat contact. to low of a capacitance causes the same effect in the opposite surfaces. You can buy condensers of specific mfd capacitance for the application needed. For instance a Maytag 92 uses a condenser of about .20mfd's the solid state capacitors work also, but there has been some discussion as to them holding up under vibration, and heat. I know they work well in some applications. If you can't afford a capacitance meter, most automotive electric shops will have one, and some parts stores. probably not the chain auto stores. Now I'll probably have 87 experts tell me I am wrong, but that's my story and I'm sticking to it. I does matter what the mfd capacitance for what application is or is required. other wise you will just burn up the points ....pitting, peaking etc.
________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
I do a functional check on capacitors , or condensers if you like , using a simple analog volt meter, the old kind with a meter that has a needle. Basically, set the meter to the olms setting and measure the resistance. For a good capacitor, the needle should jump towards zero then move towards infinity as you make contact with it. Then switch the meter leads and do it again. This time the needle should jump about twice as far. The first time you are putting a charge of 1.5 volts on the capacitor. When you reverse the leads, you are reversing the charge so the needle will jump further. One end of the capacitor must be disconnected from the circuit. If the meter has some selection, choose a high resistence range.
If the needle stops at a resistance value other than infinity, it is leaking the charge and is bad.
Kevin
WoodDean
ArboristSite Guru
Thanks Kev, I was doing a search here but didn't find much, let me try again. IIRC, you may have posted that tip during my 90 problems.
WoodDean
ArboristSite Guru
Looks like we posted at the same time, thanks.
WoodDean
ArboristSite Guru
I gapped only and didn't file as it looked like the points were making a flush connection. I'll make that correction now that I have the flywheel off.
Question: If the timing is not set correctly what are the symptoms?
Yeah, I was having trouble finding it too. Then I just put in 'condenser' and my screen name. Although every time I mentioned 'condenser' a dialog came up, soon I saw the original.
Timing can be definite lack of power and hard/impossible to start...depends how far off it is.
Kevin
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Do that because if this saw has sat any length of time there is most likely oxidization on the contact surfaces causing very high resistance in the points....(bad inconsistent spark) even though they may look to be in good condition. Don't get ahead of yourself in the diagnostics....eliminate the basics first.....good connections and good clean properly gapped points...make sure everything you can fix for free is in good order...if it is then look further...don't over look disconnecting the kill switch too.....these are all potential problem areas......my guess is points.....but that is just a guess....take the guess work out of it....
briantutt
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Agreed this was the exact problem on my husky L65. Cleaned up points and it started right up.
Brian
I would drag a file across the points. I work on a lot of old tractors and have seen where they look nice and clean but won't work right until you just touch them with a file. It's like they get a film on them from sitting.
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Wow Eric your 910 took off slow but really got going near the end!!!! Sweet......love to watch that happen....'cept when I'm bidding!!!!!!!! Congrats!!!!
I've run into this problem a lot with small engines that have to sit outside for just the winter season, albeit stored under decent tarps. The points surfaces will oxidize and even give a no start scenario. I used to use a points file, but find the rough grit, solid paper sandcloth that plumbers use is best. I do one side at a time and drag a piece through the gap with my fingers keeping the points closed.....then do the other side the same way. On Kohler points, 400 grit won't do it if they are heavily oxidized....that's why I went to sandcloth for all points. Often one pass on each point surface is all you will need.
Kevin
Kevin
Oh hell yeah...that's great Eric, congrats! You should be pleased coming out of firewood season into a 'soft' price season for saws. Somebody really wanted that 910, or maybe that model is finally getting its due.
Kevin
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Speaking of Ebay.......I bought a misc parts bag from a 520 the other day...was advertised as "Cleaned and Inspected". The only thing I wanted/needed was a upper AV mount for the top handle.....the rest was pretty much nuts and misc. bolts......six bucks BIN with $6.45 shipping from Washington State. I have a 535 here I'm fixing for a client and it needs this mount replaced. It gets here and the rubber is separated from the metal backer.....hmmmm.....do I just eat this or hassle the guy over $6......so I contacted him and politely explained that the mount was junk and that it was listed as "Cleaned and Inspected" so I didn't mind the price if it was in good shape.....he didn't get back to me personally but promptly refunded the entire $12.45 and said not to return the items......pretty stand up guy...didn't ask for a pic or anything though I mentioned that I would do that if he wanted to see it....all good.....but....I still need this mount.....
Good story....had this happen with stand-up sellers as well. The reality is that the honest sellers won't fight you over damaged parts, the shysters will. It really serves no purpose to send a damaged part back, but a lot of sellers want to see pics etc and I can understand that.
Glad it turned out for ya, but yeah, still need the mount..lol!
Kevin
I can't believe how high that 910E went, but I'm quite happy about it.
You don't see that every day with ebay sellers... That bag wouldn't happen to have the rear handle av rubber in it would it. A friend of mine dropped off his dad's saw to "fix" and it's missing a bunch of stuff
, that rear mount being one of them. Tried to explain it's only a 520, and might not be worth messing with.....just got a blank stare.
