Jonsered Chainsaws

[Cantdog]

Now this is good!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jonsereds-4...064946?hash=item41afd85672:g:vJ4AAOSw6WdXii8Y


I paid $249.99 retail in April 1977 for this saw....got a hat, file and grease gun and a pat on the back too!!

 

[Gustafarian]

Nice find! Oh and welcome to the forum. Quite a few owners of that saw here and hopefully, they will be able to help you with at least a tracing of a dawg. All the J'reds I use for work have been fitted with custom dawgs of my own design. I find their factory bucking dawgs to be inadequate for fallin'. I did buy a custom pair for the 910 off of Ebay that are decent.

Looks like something is going on that's funky with that one bar nut and the washer? Seems a shame and a waste to have that tiny bar on a saw of that potential.

Kevin

It was pretty much a one owner saw- the guy's I bought it dad's . I use my saws for cutting fallen trees for fire wood. We aren't allowed to fell trees here on public land. I tend to only use this one for cutting through the big stuff - and the safe stuff as it has a bit of pull and no chain brake. I have sourced some better nuts with a flange that seem to work fine. I would agree about the bar - it's an 18" with a .404 chain - looks like the original bar as well. I am having trouble finding something here for a bigger bar. All I can find is about a 25" that takes a .404. http://coonasawchain.com.au/shop/item/ek25-63. If anyone else has leads on larger bars I would like to know - but I think they only come in .308 - do you think that makes much difference?

 

[Gustafarian]

Recently acquired ownership (from a friend) of my 111S after sitting on my shelf for years....
here is the dawg pix Scale it down to fit the holes on the saw(which is 114.77mm) and you're good to go. This IS a 111S dawg. The scanner pix is over 100% yield. Your screen/printer may vary.

wow! Thanks, I am thinking about tracing it into CAD and get it lasercut out of Stainless Steel.

 

[beavis331]

Now this is good!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jonsereds-4...064946?hash=item41afd85672:g:vJ4AAOSw6WdXii8Y


I paid $249.99 retail in April 1977 for this saw....got a hat, file and grease gun and a pat on the back too!!

I would much rather have one to enjoy without worrying about damaging or scratching it. I'm not sure anyone is gonna pay that for a shelf queen.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Now this is good!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jonsereds-4...064946?hash=item41afd85672:g:vJ4AAOSw6WdXii8Y


I paid $249.99 retail in April 1977 for this saw....got a hat, file and grease gun and a pat on the back too!!

Holy cow, Robin...if that 49sp brings anywhere near that...you're gonna have to start selling your stash of them...lol! What the heck is going on with saws recently on the bay???

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

I would much rather have one to enjoy without worrying about damaging or scratching it. I'm not sure anyone is gonna pay that for a shelf queen.

I'm starting to wonder about the present saw market on eBay....seems a little of kilter lately for the buyer.

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

It was pretty much a one owner saw- the guy's I bought it dad's . I use my saws for cutting fallen trees for fire wood. We aren't allowed to fell trees here on public land. I tend to only use this one for cutting through the big stuff - and the safe stuff as it has a bit of pull and no chain brake. I have sourced some better nuts with a flange that seem to work fine. I would agree about the bar - it's an 18" with a .404 chain - looks like the original bar as well. I am having trouble finding something here for a bigger bar. All I can find is about a 25" that takes a .404. http://coonasawchain.com.au/shop/item/ek25-63. If anyone else has leads on larger bars I would like to know - but I think they only come in .308 - do you think that makes much difference?

The saw was set-up to run .404 chisel chain in most of NA, especially the PNW. Some even had spur drums which absolutely confounds me on a saw of that size. Your problem is gonna be the mount spacing which is 10mm and those bars haven't been made in quite some time. Sometimes, the large mount Husky bars will fit because they get sloppy with the machining. But you can't just buy a large mount Husky bar and expect it to work. Requires just a bit of milling on most. I did that with a Carlton bar once and it wasn't fun. Had to open up the rail a bit too.

I don't know what your market is downunder, but best case scenario is to find a decent used bar that was originally the J'reds 10mm mount style. Second choice would be the large mount Husky which is supposed to be 9.5mm. The saw was also made to power up with a .063 gauge bar. I guess it could have been set-up with that bar pictured, but there were no shortage of smaller saws that would outrun it in small timber, not mention lugging around all that extra heft in smaller scale. I notice it doesn't have the full-wrap handle...you never see one around here(PNW) without one. If you're fallin' big scale without a full-wrap, you're working against yourself. Doesn't sound like you can even do that downunder anymore in a lot of places.

Don't put too much credence on chain brakes, as I've never had a saw with one yet.....it was mostly an option in the older saws at first. I think they are good thing for the occasional wood cutter and firewood gatherer, but if you're a pro they are a nuisance.

Kevin

 

[Gustafarian]

The saw was set-up to run .404 chisel chain in most of NA, especially the PNW. Some even had spur drums which absolutely confounds me on a saw of that size. Your problem is gonna be the mount spacing which is 10mm and those bars haven't been made in quite some time. Sometimes, the large mount Husky bars will fit because they get sloppy with the machining. But you can't just buy a large mount Husky bar and expect it to work. Requires just a bit of milling on most. I did that with a Carlton bar once and it wasn't fun. Had to open up the rail a bit too.

I don't know what your market is downunder, but best case scenario is to find a decent used bar that was originally the J'reds 10mm mount style. Second choice would be the large mount Husky which is supposed to be 9.5mm. The saw was also made to power up with a .063 gauge bar. I guess it could have been set-up with that bar pictured, but there were no shortage of smaller saws that would outrun it in small timber, not mention lugging around all that extra heft in smaller scale. I notice it doesn't have the full-wrap handle...you never see one around here(PNW) without one. If you're fallin' big scale without a full-wrap, you're working against yourself. Doesn't sound like you can even do that downunder anymore in a lot of places.

Don't put too much credence on chain brakes, as I've never had a saw with one yet.....it was mostly an option in the older saws at first. I think they are good thing for the occasional wood cutter and firewood gatherer, but if you're a pro they are a nuisance.

Kevin

Thanks for the advice, I only really use it out of a vehicle so I don't have to carry it around too much, but I hear you about hauling it around - weighs heaps, and doing any cutting above the waste is murder! I just tend to rest it on the log and let gravity do the work. I bought it cos it was cheap ($90.00 US) and a bit of fun. I went on the Oregan site and the bar mount index had it as a D196 of which there are a few around, but like I said not much in the .404. I also hear you about the chain brakes - basically don't put yourself in that situation that would need it in the first place.

Angus

 

[Real1shepherd]

I never was around the 111S in the woods, so I'm not sure what was available in bars at the time.

Supposedly the 111S was around when I was loggin', but the J'reds were usually bought outa Portland, OR....local dealerships being very sparse.

You can't beat some form of chisel chain for fast cutting in soft woods. No doubt some ran 38" bars in 3/8 chain with it. Easy enough to put a 3/8 rim sprocket on a floating clutch drum. I lasted one day with 3/8 chain on a Husky 2100 and then switched back to .404 chisel.

Man, you stole that saw! If that's an average price for a 111S downunder, the shelf collectors will start showing up in droves. It's a Holy Grail saw here with junkers fetching $400.

Kevin

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

 

[Gustafarian]

Ha ha, I live in the country and the guy just didn't need it any more. Like I said, it was his dad's and I think he figured it was old and unsafe and just wanted to get rid of it. There was one on ebay recently, worse condition for $300 AUD. So, yeah, a bargain. Most of the timber I cut is for firewood so it's pretty hard and often dry so the saws have good work out. A lot of it I can't split unless I cut the round less the 1 foot. The .404 seems to spit nice big chips and make decent work of a log, so I would like to keep it that size.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Ha ha, I live in the country and the guy just didn't need it any more. Like I said, it was his dad's and I think he figured it was old and unsafe and just wanted to get rid of it. There was one on ebay recently, worse condition for $300 AUD. So, yeah, a bargain. Most of the timber I cut is for firewood so it's pretty hard and often dry so the saws have good work out. A lot of it I can't split unless I cut the round less the 1 foot. The .404 seems to spit nice big chips and make decent work of a log, so I would like to keep it that size.

The one caveat I know about the saw is the leaking gas tank; rear handle is screwed to the gas tank and so if the saw is thrown around roughly, the tank can crack & leak.

Should be an Oregon D024 mount...10mm

Kevin

 

[Cantdog]

Gawd......this thread is stagnant......So.......pioneerguy600 (Jerry from Nova Scotia)) came down here today to pick up a bunch of boat stuffs that had been shipped to me for him due to customs and shipping expence etc. He came bearing a gift.......by the tag, a 1986 670...but...being the inquisitive type I am as soon as he left I tore it apart. Jerry said he built it from a box of parts........my question to the Jonsereds gurus ......this saw has a solid isolation block intake with an internal impulse corridor rather than a rubber boot intake and an external impulse line. Is this real????......Did they make these for a short time? Or is this a 670 converted to a 268XP......I have not pulled the cyl but it is a 50MM Mahle. Any thoughts??? (I'm leaning toward Eric on this one)......LOL!!!

 

[taplinhill]

I've never seen a 670 built that way, or any proof that they might have been, but it doesn't mean the weren't. Although some will disagree with me 1986 was the first year of 670 production, so if there were going to be a difference like that, 1986 would be the year for it. The 670 IPL's are good about showing the differences with the serial number change points, so I would GUESS that it's a Husqvarna cylinder.

 

[Cantdog]

I've never seen a 670 built that way, or any proof that they might have been, but it doesn't mean the weren't. Although some will disagree with me 1986 was the first year of 670 production, so if there were going to be a difference like that, 1986 would be the year for it. The 670 IPL's are good about showing the differences with the serial number change points, so I would GUESS that it's a Husqvarna cylinder.

Well, that's what I thought too.....but wasn't positive. In fact at first I thought is was a 630 top end on a 670 case but on closer inspection I could see the "50" on the cyl base in stead of "48" if it had been a 630. The case also showed where the plastic carb/boot retainer had been bolted down at one time. Jerry said he built it from a box of parts that had a couple cyls in it and he chose the best one. It has a later 237 carb on it so the idle adjust is hidden......not a problem but not original to the early 670 case.

 

[Cantdog]

So.....I'm still puzzling on this 670.......the cyl casting number is 50 NZ 13.......I am working on a Husky 266SE right now.....it's number is 50 NZ11......my 268 XPs (2) are both 50NZ14........the transfer bulges look very similar this saw and the 266......the 268XP has much larger transfers.....so large in fact there had to be a machining to the outer surface so the flywheel would have proper clearance. I will have to dig out an actual 670 cyl and check he numbers and size of the transfers on those tomorrow.

 

[fossil]

Any chance it's a 266XP cylinder? I have a 266XP. If you tell me where the numbers can be found on the cylinder I'll have a look.

 

[Cantdog]

Any chance it's a 266XP cylinder? I have a 266XP. If you tell me where the numbers can be found on the cylinder I'll have a look.

The casting numbers are on the cyl base behind the flywheel along the side where it bolts down to the case......will start with 50...as in 50MM bore.

 

[fossil]

It says 50N Z13 and then W8.

I guess you do have a 266 XP cylinder which is supposed to be one of the real killers (or so I've been told).

 

[Cantdog]

It says 50N Z13 and then W8.

I guess you do have a 266 XP cylinder which is supposed to be one of the real killers (or so I've been told).

A-HA Thanks Tim. They are good runners but not as hot as the 268XP cyls which I believe are about the same as the 670 SuperII or Champ cyls. I will check into this later today and report back with the 670 #s and stats. The later 268XP cyls were simply a more developed (porting wise) version of the 266 cyls.

 

[Cantdog]

A-HA Thanks Tim. They are good runners but not as hot as the 268XP cyls which I believe are about the same as the 670 SuperII or Champ cyls. I will check into this later today and report back with the 670 #s and stats. The later 268XP cyls were simply a more developed (porting wise) version of the 266 cyls.

So.....I looked over a 670 cyl at the shop and compared it to the 266 cyl (50NZ11) and also a 268XP cyl (50ZN 14) and found the 670 nearly eactly the same in term os transfer shapes and sizes as the 268XP.....both being larger than the 266 in these areas. The # on my 670 cyl. is 50ZN15..