Be careful. Those two might start breeding....................
Lol, I wish.
Be careful. Those two might start breeding....................
Thanks. This was a one owner saw that hasn't seen a lot of use.
Low hrs saws are the best to find. Even if the paint gets knocked off from moving around, the low hr factor is unbeatable. Enjoy!
Kevin
Yes they are......that 49 is one of the later models with the Teflon (?) coated top handle....these scratch up pretty easily compared to the older plastic coated handles.......and clutch covers always take a beating with a half wrap when fueling/adding bar oil etc. I've always found the most reliable way to quickly judge the amount of use on these old Jonsereds is how much wear on the paint on the trigger handle where a fella's hand fits to operate it. Barring the info from a one owner saw that is. Of course you have to look at the whole saw as the trigger handle could well have been replaced.....and by that I mean it could have been replaced with a new pretty one or perhaps a more worn used one. You get used to using and looking at certain saws and you can come pretty darn close judging how well or bad a saw has been treated and how much use it has one it.
Agree and then once owning them.......it's sort of a 'feeling' that things are original and/or low hr. It's like a combination of visual wear pluses that just seems to cement the fact that it is indeed, low hr. Like you said, if you have a perfect trigger handle, but the rest of the saw shows more wear...then you know the handle was replaced etc.
Before there were chainsaw 'collectors', these were just saws that represented utility. Whether or not the owner used OE parts was entirely up to him and usually driven by price and availability. It wasn't like everyone had a saw shrine in their garage and they worshiped it every night. Now, I'm not so sure....lol.
Kevin
You got that right Kevin.......it was always "Run what Ya Brung and fix it with whatever you had around". Back before there were a lot of metric fasteners readily available folks did what I always hated.......if they lost or stripped out a top cover or recoil cover bolt they'd just screw in whatever std bolt could be forced in the old hole. Man that always pizzed me off......'course I most always had euro junk for wheels so I was used to having to scrounge up fasteners.......seen quite a few 621s and 80s with 1/4'" screws cranked into them. I have a whole container that has 4 and 5MM screw in inserts in it. They not cheap......like $8 bux a pop...but I already had the bits and taps......nice to put the correct bolts back.......then when you take it apart it is like Jonsereds meant it to be......two/three allen wrenches and scrench take the whole saw apart...on a stump or tailgate....
Hey there Jonsered fans!
I’ve got an ‘84 630 with stripped out threads in the head for the muffler studs and am trying to decide on the best course of action...
The saw runs great, you’d never know it was 35 years old- and had a career in the woods before I got it.
I guess my options are:
If I replace the top end I’m tempted to go with a big bore kit but will the stock 630 carburetor keep up?
- Helicoil and repair the threads
- Replace the jug and piston
Let me know if any pics might help. Thanks for the input!
@woods works was kind enough to send me pics of a Tilton ipl of the Pro 35/Redline saw. Converted it to pdf. Thank YouTrying to track down a Jonsereds Pro 35 chainsaw ipl. Please send me a copy.
Ray,the pro 35 you reffered to may be the husky 35 equivalentTrying to track down a Jonsereds Pro 35 chainsaw ipl. Please send me a copy.
They don't look the same. It is supposedly an Efco 935dxRay,the pro 35 you reffered to may be the husky 35 equivalent
made by (trail industries)if that helps
Keith