Did someone straight gas that?? Hole in intake boot?
Kevin
Kevin
Jonsered Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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Did some gasket making yesterday on an XF. Used Felpro 3011; worked out well.
Blackbruin
ArboristSite Operative
That link you sent those skf's will work?
Intake boot was perfect, as was pulse line. I think someone forgot to add oil in the fuel mix. It was mangled good.
You need to make sure that's the correct size and if so, I'd go with the SKF's, yes.
Someone here should speak up and confirm.
Kevin
Blackbruin
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah it measures 14x30x6 not 7 but i think 7 will work
Finally getting around to rebuilding this old beast.
Yeah, the OE seals are 6mm thick, but hard to find now. 7mm works just fine. Most of us have used 7mm in the past with perfect results.
Kevin
Piece of interesting history there, Scott!
Do you have to split the case or just using new crank seals?
Kevin
Kevin - I don't think I need to split the case, but I'll know for sure when I clean it up a bit more. I had a heck of a time yesterday splitting the case on a 111S, so I don't necessarily want to go through that again.
Having said that, how do y'all split cases? Once I get all the screws out, I generally start working it apart slowly using a razor blade then gradually larger tools (generally plastic) to slowly pry the case apart. I use ATF and Kroil on the areas that are reluctant to let go. Of course, I always wreck the gasket using this method, but I have a 3' x 3' sheet of Felpro 3011 and an exacto knife, so making a new one isn't a big deal.
As for replacing the seals, did you make a tool to pry the old ones out?
Scott
Scott - Lots of YouTube vids on splitting cases. Of course there are the factory tools and facsimiles to do it well. I recommend whatever doesn't damage anything and is doable. Using a freezer and a toaster oven is great for reassembly. Even in automotive work, when I was rebuilding my big NV4500 transmission, heating a bearing to 300F and then dropping it on a shaft proved incredibly successful.
As far as pulling crankcase seals here's a pic of what I've used in the past and what I'm going to start using;tool on left eventually broke but I like the design...just horrible quality steel. Tool on the right is the one that I'll probably use for a very long time. Some guys just screw in a sheet metal type screw into the seal and pull that way.
I'd be wary of any lateral(side to side) play in a crankshaft....however, there can be a small amount of push/pull play. Everyone argues about how much of that is permissible. It's usually the lateral play that takes out seals and is indicative of bearing failure.
Kevin
As far as pulling crankcase seals here's a pic of what I've used in the past and what I'm going to start using;tool on left eventually broke but I like the design...just horrible quality steel. Tool on the right is the one that I'll probably use for a very long time. Some guys just screw in a sheet metal type screw into the seal and pull that way.
I'd be wary of any lateral(side to side) play in a crankshaft....however, there can be a small amount of push/pull play. Everyone argues about how much of that is permissible. It's usually the lateral play that takes out seals and is indicative of bearing failure.
Kevin
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I'll check out the YouTube videos. Ordered one of the Lisle tools; should be here tomorrow. Thanks for the tip on that!
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Yep...what he said....
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I've done quite a few using various home grown methods. But none even comes close to the Husky crankshaft removal tool. I believe there are three sizes...at least two. Besides being the correct way of doing it the true beauty is, (if you have the right size or make a pad to hold the bearing in smaller saws) that when you push the crank out of the case half, splitting the cases it leaves the bearing in the case so you aren't then faced with the issue of getting the bearings off the crank.....which can also really suck...and really really suck even more if the crank has the oil pump drive can installed on the crank like all the older Jonsereds 49-52 series, 621-80-90 series and the 66-70E series. It is money well spent even if you only use it twice......takes minutes not hours....
I totally agree with that but am reserved about recommending the Husky splitters because of the cost. But probably if you split more than three cases, it starts to pay for itself in time saved. Certainly, anyone in a repair shop should have them.
Kevin
The real Husky tool is about $238 now(found better pricing, but everyone is out of stock). And there's this:
https://www.amazon.com/Crankcase-splitter-Husqvarna-ChainSaw-502-51-61-01/dp/B0725B7RS2
I have no idea if that clone is any good at all. If anyone's used it, this would be a good time to speak up!
Kevin
https://www.amazon.com/Crankcase-splitter-Husqvarna-ChainSaw-502-51-61-01/dp/B0725B7RS2
I have no idea if that clone is any good at all. If anyone's used it, this would be a good time to speak up!
Kevin
I have that one. Not a huge fan of it.
I also have a case splitting tool that I bought a few years ago and haven't unpackaged. I'll have to pull it out to see if it will work on the 110.
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Why pray tell? Does it not work on the much older saws you have acquired? I have found to be the bee knees on any saw made from 1968 on....but have never tried to work on the those old timers you have.
I bought it several years ago. As I recall, I don't think it worked on a Stihl 1106/1109 series (Contra/Lightning/070/090). On those, they generally came apart without too much trouble after you drive out the pins that align the case halves. On these saws, you can get to the pins from both sides.
I used it on some 1111 series saws (050/051/075/076) but I had to bend the tool a bit to get it to fit.
After that, I quit using it. I just split cases as described above - slow and tedious.
