Correct as usual, King Jonsereds.
Jonsered Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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Wow guys,thanks for IDing those saws! I found out late last night that the 2nd saw was a 910E.The other saw that I was told was a 70 & turned out to be a 621 kinda surprised me.
Now I wonder if anyone can help me out with parts on the 910E?I need the metal part that attaches to the rear of the carb for the air filter to screw into,the air filter,air filter cover,& air filter "basket".
Now I wonder if anyone can help me out with parts on the 910E?I need the metal part that attaches to the rear of the carb for the air filter to screw into,the air filter,air filter cover,& air filter "basket".
That's not a bad thing, I hear the 621 is a fantastic saw. It's on my bucket list for sure.
I'll let ya know how it cuts this fall.I'd like to get a new air filter for it.The current filter has a small gash in it.I suppose I could get by with some tape on it.
I pulled the points out of the 49SP that I got from my local saw shop & cleaned them up & put 'em back in & had good spark.Unfortunately there's very little compression.I can see why too.The schmuck that owned the saw should be horsewhipped for how he treated that saw.Never pulled the recoil off to clean anything & overheated it with all the crud on the cyl.fins & all over the points box,etc.I'll pull the saw down this winter & see if I can save anything.It's making a clanking noise when I pull it over,the bottom end may be toast too.
I'm looking around for a set of crank seals for the other 49SP.That saw runs great,but as soon as I tip it to the right or forward it starts to wind out.I don't know much about the J'reds,is it common for the crank seals to go bad on them?
I'm looking around for a set of crank seals for the other 49SP.That saw runs great,but as soon as I tip it to the right or forward it starts to wind out.I don't know much about the J'reds,is it common for the crank seals to go bad on them?
Yes, you need a worm drive cog that matches the rim spline & the pitch on the non-adjustable oil pump (sorry don't have a part number).
It'd be a good time to upgrade the pump, the adjustable one from a 350/357/359/2150/2159 bolts right in & then use the standard rim drive clutch drum & oiler drive for the bigger saws
I started tearing down the 49SP.The piston is scored pretty bad,no bringing it back to life.The cylinder looks OK for now,of course I'm only seeing the intake side.What size are the cylinder bolts?I suppose ya need a special socket to fit in that tight hole?
I finished up on the 49SP today.I took the flywheel off & then pulled the cylinder.The cylinder is still good,but the piston is toast.I think someone straight gassed it,along with being completely filthy.The bottom end looks good too,no radial play with the conn rod on the crank.I think a new piston & ring will do the trick.
Has anyone had any dealings with aftermarket Jonsered piston kits?I'm excluding the kits sold by LRB as I think they're total garbage,this is based on my experience with Homelite piston kits & a fellow member here on AS who had the same (actually worse ) experience with a Mac piston kit from LRB.
I found an OEM Jonsered piston kit on chainsawr,but I'm not paying $80 for one.
I found an OEM Jonsered piston kit on chainsawr,but I'm not paying $80 for one.
JimmyG
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi all, I just picked up a 2065 turbo and an 820, Both appear in good running condition. Bear in mind, although I am handy, I am an amateur at this, NO experience breaking down and reviving old saws. So far filters, fluids, plugs have been replaced, first thing (ex. for 820 air filter, cant find one). I have taken the 2065 out and she is wow , good to go for now. The 820 has not left the shop yet and it seems to have an oiler issue, that is, it seems to be seeping on the bench. Anyone know of common issues and their remedies with these oilers or old saw oilers generally?
Seperately, I could use a longer bar on the 820, 24" or so? Should I replace the rim sprocket while I am at it?
Finally, as I reconcile myself to this new "hobby", does anyone have any suggestions for any books on saw restoration, repair, maintenance?
Thanks all.
Seperately, I could use a longer bar on the 820, 24" or so? Should I replace the rim sprocket while I am at it?
Finally, as I reconcile myself to this new "hobby", does anyone have any suggestions for any books on saw restoration, repair, maintenance?
Thanks all.
Did you try Chainsawr for your air filter?I think I saw one available when I was looking for one for my 910E.
https://store.chainsawr.com/collect...ered-910-920-820-830-chainsaw-air-filter-half
I had a big disappointment with my first piston & cylinder replacement on another brand.Of course no one helps me,so I'm pretty much on my own.
So after that fiasco I decided to polish up my newly acquired 621.I sprayed it down with Simple Green & wiped off all the baked on oil & dirt.The saw was well taken care of & I don't think it really ever saw much work.The top cover was so dirty I had no idea it was silver,Lol.It had a repair tag on it from the saw shop I bought it from for $25,but the tag was full of oil & I couldn't read the repair order.I must've had the saw laying on it's side for 45 min.& when I was finished I decided to see if it'd start.It fired right up,& that saw lay dormant for a number of yrs.It helped that it was put away with no fuel in the tank.
So after that fiasco I decided to polish up my newly acquired 621.I sprayed it down with Simple Green & wiped off all the baked on oil & dirt.The saw was well taken care of & I don't think it really ever saw much work.The top cover was so dirty I had no idea it was silver,Lol.It had a repair tag on it from the saw shop I bought it from for $25,but the tag was full of oil & I couldn't read the repair order.I must've had the saw laying on it's side for 45 min.& when I was finished I decided to see if it'd start.It fired right up,& that saw lay dormant for a number of yrs.It helped that it was put away with no fuel in the tank.
I got most of the parts needed to put the 910E back together today,the part that attaches to the rear of the carb for the filter cover to screw on to,the air filter cover,& the AV mounts.I got all installed but one AV mount that I didn't need after all.The AV mount on the rear handle was broken & replacing that was quite a challenge,but I got it done.I couldn't understand why the front handle wobbled so badfly even though the AV mounts were still good.I wiggled the handle & watached it at all the key points & found the reason why was the grommets that attach the arm from the rear to the front handle were shot.I ended up putting another washer on to stiffen it up more.Now it's fairly solid.
I went to put the bar & chain back on & couldn't figure out why the chain would lock up when I tightened it.A little more investigation revealed the rim sprocket needs to be replaced in a bad way.
Would it be out of the question to put a 24 in. bar & chain on this beast?
I went to put the bar & chain back on & couldn't figure out why the chain would lock up when I tightened it.A little more investigation revealed the rim sprocket needs to be replaced in a bad way.
Would it be out of the question to put a 24 in. bar & chain on this beast?
I would think it would handle a 24" no problem.
McCullochKid
ArboristSite Operative
I had a moment of excitement with the 630 today. I want to get one of those K&N filters for it, but they're a bit expensive. So I decided that I want to try fueling it up and see if the thing will idle on its own for a moment, and check if there are any big obvious problems like worn out crank seals.
Looking inside the fuel tank, I noticed that there appeared to be an almost new looking fuel filter in there, and the existing fuel lines didn't seem too bad, so I put a little fuel in there. After doing that, I reset the H/L needles and turned them out 1 L and 1 1/8 H just to see what will happen.
Switch on, choke out, and a few pulls later it fired once. Pushed choke back in, and two pulls later it took off, and at that point it became apparent that this saw has an out of control lean problem. No problem, just turn the switch off.
...Except the switch wouldn't turn it off.
This was one of those moments of brief panic like a runaway diesel, where you're certain that the saw in your hands is going to burn itself out at any second.
I'm thankful that I decided to try this brief test without an air filter on, because after a moment I decided to try choking the saw out by completely sealing off the intake with my hand, which immediately worked.
Today I learned 3 things about my $10 630 find.
1: Carb will pull fuel and start things properly on its own
2: On/Off switch is faulty
3: Major air leak
Are there any things besides the usual suspects of crank seals/lines on this series of saw that could cause a big air leak?
On the topic of air leaks, got any recommendations for a pressure/vacuum test kit? I've been meaning to get one for a long time now, since I suspect several of the saws I've picked up have crank seals that are starting to go bad.
Looking inside the fuel tank, I noticed that there appeared to be an almost new looking fuel filter in there, and the existing fuel lines didn't seem too bad, so I put a little fuel in there. After doing that, I reset the H/L needles and turned them out 1 L and 1 1/8 H just to see what will happen.
Switch on, choke out, and a few pulls later it fired once. Pushed choke back in, and two pulls later it took off, and at that point it became apparent that this saw has an out of control lean problem. No problem, just turn the switch off.
...Except the switch wouldn't turn it off.
This was one of those moments of brief panic like a runaway diesel, where you're certain that the saw in your hands is going to burn itself out at any second.
I'm thankful that I decided to try this brief test without an air filter on, because after a moment I decided to try choking the saw out by completely sealing off the intake with my hand, which immediately worked.
Today I learned 3 things about my $10 630 find.
1: Carb will pull fuel and start things properly on its own
2: On/Off switch is faulty
3: Major air leak
Are there any things besides the usual suspects of crank seals/lines on this series of saw that could cause a big air leak?
On the topic of air leaks, got any recommendations for a pressure/vacuum test kit? I've been meaning to get one for a long time now, since I suspect several of the saws I've picked up have crank seals that are starting to go bad.
Here's what I use: https://www.ebay.com/itm/223614542401?epid=1268590329&hash=item3410772241:g:lWQAAOSw~ANfgS4BI had a moment of excitement with the 630 today. I want to get one of those K&N filters for it, but they're a bit expensive. So I decided that I want to try fueling it up and see if the thing will idle on its own for a moment, and check if there are any big obvious problems like worn out crank seals.
Looking inside the fuel tank, I noticed that there appeared to be an almost new looking fuel filter in there, and the existing fuel lines didn't seem too bad, so I put a little fuel in there. After doing that, I reset the H/L needles and turned them out 1 L and 1 1/8 H just to see what will happen.
Switch on, choke out, and a few pulls later it fired once. Pushed choke back in, and two pulls later it took off, and at that point it became apparent that this saw has an out of control lean problem. No problem, just turn the switch off.
...Except the switch wouldn't turn it off.
This was one of those moments of brief panic like a runaway diesel, where you're certain that the saw in your hands is going to burn itself out at any second.
I'm thankful that I decided to try this brief test without an air filter on, because after a moment I decided to try choking the saw out by completely sealing off the intake with my hand, which immediately worked.
Today I learned 3 things about my $10 630 find.
1: Carb will pull fuel and start things properly on its own
2: On/Off switch is faulty
3: Major air leak
Are there any things besides the usual suspects of crank seals/lines on this series of saw that could cause a big air leak?
On the topic of air leaks, got any recommendations for a pressure/vacuum test kit? I've been meaning to get one for a long time now, since I suspect several of the saws I've picked up have crank seals that are starting to go bad.
The 630 may have a impulse line you should check.
Does anyone know the aftermarket seal (if there is one) for a 49SP?Thanks!
It is in this thread somewhere. I think they were using 15mm I.D./ 30mm O.D./7mm thick but I am not 100% certain.
