Jonsered Chainsaws

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Here are some pics of the cleaned up 621 & the completed 910E.The 910E got a new 8 pin rim today along with a freshly greased clutch drum bearing.I did a little shopping on Feebay & found a new clutch drum with an 8 pin rim for $15.The 910E however continues to be a money pit.I need 2 AV grommets for it,part # 504125024.The only place I found them of course was Feebay for $14 each,ridiculous!
 

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I was at Grainger today looking for the grommets I need & wouldn't ya know it they didn't have the ones in stock that I needed.I'll go back on Thurs.when they'll be in & then I can compare to see if they're right.I also inquired about crank seals.They said the best thing is to bring the old seal in to do a comparison,even though I told them the measurements.

As for crank seals on the 49SP,I worked my tush off trying to get the FW side seal out.I finally got it out,but I could see the ball bearings were really dry.I think this proves my theory that the saw was straight gassed to be correct.I went to pull the clutch off to get the other seal out & I can't get the clutch spider off the shaft.I tried getting the clutch to come off in one piece,but that didn't work.The clutch shoes popped off with the spring leaving the spider behind.What direction does the clutch come off?There are no arrows on the clutch or the shaft.
 
I was at Grainger today looking for the grommets I need & wouldn't ya know it they didn't have the ones in stock that I needed.I'll go back on Thurs.when they'll be in & then I can compare to see if they're right.I also inquired about crank seals.They said the best thing is to bring the old seal in to do a comparison,even though I told them the measurements.

As for crank seals on the 49SP,I worked my tush off trying to get the FW side seal out.I finally got it out,but I could see the ball bearings were really dry.I think this proves my theory that the saw was straight gassed to be correct.I went to pull the clutch off to get the other seal out & I can't get the clutch spider off the shaft.I tried getting the clutch to come off in one piece,but that didn't work.The clutch shoes popped off with the spring leaving the spider behind.What direction does the clutch come off?There are no arrows on the clutch or the shaft.
It is keyed taper and comes straight off....not threaded..
 
I found some bolts to screw into the spider.It didn't take much pressure to hear that spider go "ping".I had to be careful so as not to crack or damage the crankcase.Getting the seal out was a major endeavor though.It was as if the seals were glued or welded into place.I've only remover a few seals before & they always came out very easy,not these 2 though.Wondering if the saw got really hot & that did it?
 
I found some bolts to screw into the spider.It didn't take much pressure to hear that spider go "ping".I had to be careful so as not to crack or damage the crankcase.Getting the seal out was a major endeavor though.It was as if the seals were glued or welded into place.I've only remover a few seals before & they always came out very easy,not these 2 though.Wondering if the saw got really hot & that did it?
To make removal easier, give the seal a gentle tap down so it just moves a hair to break it loose. They come out much easier once you've broken them loose.
If you are drilling a hole in them to remove with a screw, drill the hole first.
 
Yes, you need a worm drive cog that matches the rim spline & the pitch on the non-adjustable oil pump (sorry don't have a part number).
It'd be a good time to upgrade the pump, the adjustable one from a 350/357/359/2150/2159 bolts right in & then use the standard rim drive clutch drum & oiler drive for the bigger saws
Update adjustable oil pump, new worm drive, new drum and rim drive installed on my 2145 yesterday.
 
I went to the local bearing house today & wouldn't ya know it,they only had one seal in stock,Lol.The guy was putting in an order today & I should have them by the end of next week.I'm having them mailed to me,I can't have someone drive me there for $8.50 (cost of shipping).I also had a chat with the fella there & explained to him that I must have about 30 saws that need seals.I asked him if I called in the seal part # if they'd mail them to me on a regular basis & he said no problem.He said they could even look up the seal by the original part # (Jonsered,McCulloch,Homelite,etc.) The cost for each seal was $4.46.
 
I found some bolts to screw into the spider.It didn't take much pressure to hear that spider go "ping".I had to be careful so as not to crack or damage the crankcase.Getting the seal out was a major endeavor though.It was as if the seals were glued or welded into place.I've only remover a few seals before & they always came out very easy,not these 2 though.Wondering if the saw got really hot & that did it?

Most likely it was put in with LocTite. Not necessary for most seal placement. The outer lip of most seals are either painted or rubber.
Examine the surface of the seal well and make sure there isn't some residual holder on there like LocTite. If so, you can remove with solvent like acetone.

Kevin
 
Here are some pics of the cleaned up 621 & the completed 910E.The 910E got a new 8 pin rim today along with a freshly greased clutch drum bearing.I did a little shopping on Feebay & found a new clutch drum with an 8 pin rim for $15.The 910E however continues to be a money pit.I need 2 AV grommets for it,part # 504125024.The only place I found them of course was Feebay for $14 each,ridiculous!
Old Jonsereds OE parts are only going to continue up. Whether they are NOS or used. Just be careful you don't fall into the trap of buying a used part that really isn't any better than what you're replacing.

Scott from chainsawr sent me a recoil handle for an old Jonserds once that was mostly goo. He refunded my money which was considerable for just that handle....but it just goes to show ya that whomever pulled that part must of thought I was desperate and/or the saw was going on a shelf. It was not.

Kevin
 
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