Wouldn't really matter how hard it is to get the old one out....even destroy it....if you have a new one on hand. However, trying to save a new one already installed to transfer to another bearing in the saw, could be twitchy.
Kevin
Jonsered Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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Kevin
I'd like to hear from someone that attempted to change it out just to see how hard it is . If it doesn't go as planned the case would have to be split to install the new bearing ...quit the gamble I guess .
Ernie
Ernie
I gave it 24hrs after showing folks on my CRG FB and good deal on a jonsered 2159.
Lunch time next day I said heck with it and bought the low hour saw myself. Will prob just flip it.
Only draw back was it is the CAT muffler model. Which that is a easy remedy.
Lunch time next day I said heck with it and bought the low hour saw myself. Will prob just flip it.
Only draw back was it is the CAT muffler model. Which that is a easy remedy.
The only reasonable way to replace that seal is to buy it separately, dig the old one out and replace.
Unless you developed a method to remove one from the bearing without damage. You can always test the crank seals with pressure and vacuum. If it holds with both, you've not damaged the seal.
Kevin
Everything checks out. Appears they were running good red oil. Just not sure on gas but no water in it.
Could tell running wrong style of bar nuts on clutch cover.
Guessing these later came with the Zama carbs. Still even had the epa stops.
Tighten that pull rope up and get that blasted dealer sticker off that top cover.
Most wear I have ever seen on Tsu rails before. Tip same way. They must never dressed them.
Could tell running wrong style of bar nuts on clutch cover.
Guessing these later came with the Zama carbs. Still even had the epa stops.
Tighten that pull rope up and get that blasted dealer sticker off that top cover.
Most wear I have ever seen on Tsu rails before. Tip same way. They must never dressed them.
CAT drilled and tube removed. Now to test and tune later.
Triple exits now.
Pic don’t do justice for the like new witness lines still
Triple exits now.
Pic don’t do justice for the like new witness lines still
Ernie - you need part number 503 68 41-01 which is the white plastic fulcrum that snaps into the side of the throttle shaft and is the fulcrum for the throttle cable (503 71 76-01).Anyone know what throttle cable I need for my 2186..it has the tillitson carb but doesn't have the normal linkage connection on the carb like my 2188 .
A pic or part # would be great
Thanks very much!
Ernie
Thanks very much Jacobj !Ernie - you need part number 503 68 41-01 which is the white plastic fulcrum that snaps into the side of the throttle shaft and is the fulcrum for the throttle cable (503 71 76-01).
Ernie
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Now here's something I've not seen before.....a 49sp someone's converted to a 52E SEM ign system....sorta
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154766296507?hash=item2408ca45bb:g:9SkAAOSwLhthx1Qz
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154766296507?hash=item2408ca45bb:g:9SkAAOSwLhthx1Qz
Does anyone know if a Husky 385-390 full wrap will fit a Jonsered 2186-2188?
Thanks
Ernie
Thanks
Ernie
yes it fits i have one on mine. i was told that it would interfear with the brake handle but it doesnt. i got a husky brake handle because i was told that and had to grind a bunch of material off ot to get the screw hole to line up then i tried the jred handle and it worked just fine.
Looks good to me !
The brake still engages rite ...and what did you have to grind off the brake handle to make it fit ?
Ernie
thats the jonsered brake handle i didnt have to grind on that one. the husky brake handle is at the same angle at the handlebar so it has much more clearance than that. i had to grind inside the chanel where the metal arm of the brake itself slides in the plastic part wouldnt go down far enough for the screw hole to line up
Gamma Woods
ArboristSite Operative
So finally got around to putting the 820 on the bench, it seems to be running fine and sounding healthy hitting the speeds I want it to, but floods when I tilt it forwards. It is already idling pretty lean, and tuning any leaner would cause it to pick up speed whenever it isn't tilted. I figured fuel was pooling and tilting it forward would slop it down into the crankcase. Impulse line is fine, carb was recently rebuilt, but it didn't have great compression, wondering if there wasn't enough vacuum to pull the mix down the throat.
I've had some replacement rings sitting around for months so figured I'd take it apart and clean things up, inspecting the boot while I'm at it (and likely punching a pepsi can to over-ride the governor, wondering if that could also be causing my issue). Good news is that the intake boot is looking perfectly fine Piston was in pretty rough shape, and a jagged edge or 2 on the cylinder. I got things as cleaned up as much as I felt like doing tonight, started packing bits away to keep them clean and noticed the rings don't match
. The cabers I've had kicking around were 1.5mm thick, my piston has the twin .5mm thin rings. Oh well, the piston was looking like it might not ever be in perfect shape, so guess I'll place an order and see if the red barn garbage will suffice.
I've had some replacement rings sitting around for months so figured I'd take it apart and clean things up, inspecting the boot while I'm at it (and likely punching a pepsi can to over-ride the governor, wondering if that could also be causing my issue). Good news is that the intake boot is looking perfectly fine
Piston was in pretty rough shape, and a jagged edge or 2 on the cylinder. I got things as cleaned up as much as I felt like doing tonight, started packing bits away to keep them clean and noticed the rings don't match. The cabers I've had kicking around were 1.5mm thick, my piston has the twin .5mm thin rings. Oh well, the piston was looking like it might not ever be in perfect shape, so guess I'll place an order and see if the red barn garbage will suffice.
Or....you can look for a used OE piston in decent shape. Some owners don't care with whatever aftermarket garbage they put in. And actually, it comes down to how much you will run your saw and how hard. Some owners never run a saw hard enough to tax the aftermarket stuff they put in. Then they go to the forums and say how great the stuff is and how much money they saved.So finally got around to putting the 820 on the bench, it seems to be running fine and sounding healthy hitting the speeds I want it to, but floods when I tilt it forwards. It is already idling pretty lean, and tuning any leaner would cause it to pick up speed whenever it isn't tilted. I figured fuel was pooling and tilting it forward would slop it down into the crankcase. Impulse line is fine, carb was recently rebuilt, but it didn't have great compression, wondering if there wasn't enough vacuum to pull the mix down the throat.
I've had some replacement rings sitting around for months so figured I'd take it apart and clean things up, inspecting the boot while I'm at it (and likely punching a pepsi can to over-ride the governor, wondering if that could also be causing my issue). Good news is that the intake boot is looking perfectly fine
I've had people tell me running small engine repair shops that that they can't put $100+ parts in a saw for most people. That putting in aftermarket is their only choice for many customers. While I don't agree with that mentality, I can see what the small engine repair guys are up against.
Kevin
