Not an actual number, but just good and snug using piston stop and a 3/8" ratchet or normal length box end wrench. No need to over do as being left hand thread it's self tightening.Is anyone able to tell me the torque value for a 49sp clutch nut?
Happy Thanksgiving guys!
I have not....always used this style with the correct tool. An e-clip might work, but these clips are sturdier.Anyone try a starter pawl retaining clip that fits the flywheel part for a 621 but the clip isn't exactly like the original one here?
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No, the saw came from a bunch I picked and was missing the clip, the spring and pawl were on the flywheel magnet luckily.I have not....always used this style with the correct tool. An e-clip might work, but these clips are sturdier.
Did you lose or wreck one?
Kevin
I did and I even posted pics in this thread, in conversation with member Scott(bulletproof).No, the saw came from a bunch I picked and was missing the clip, the spring and pawl were on the flywheel magnet luckily.
You mentioned correct tool...I have snap ring pliers of course but other than a small screwdriver for this type I'm not sure what else would work. Do you have a pic you could post for the tool ?, thanks
Unscrew the drive gear, pull your brake band, pull the 2 screws holding it in and voila! It should come right off!I'm changing the seals on my 2186 and never removed an oil pump .
How does it come off the crank shaft and anything I have to watch for ?
Thanks very much !
Ernie
Yes, you'll need a small puller for the flywheel. You should be able to unscrew the clutch...left hand threads.Do I need a puller to get the clutch off an older series saw like the 621 or 70E? If not, how do I go about it. If I do need one, do they make a smaller one for saws? I have one for my snowmobile, but it is at little too big. what size thread is it in the clutch to screw bolts in? I need to change out my crank seals. If I found the correct thread, does a 15 x 30 x7 seal sound like the correct one for these saws. Thanks.
All good advice except the clutch doesn't unscrew on the 621 or 70E......tapered crankshaft shaft with a keyway same as the 80/90, 52/52E/49sp etc. Definately pay close attention o the depth of your puller screws as Kevin warned....take a good strain on the three bolts and give the end of the crankshaft a good sharp whack...generally pop right off. And when I say the end of the crank I mean either with the nut screwed back on just a whisker shy of flush or if you are usine a centerbolt puller a whack on the centedbolt.Yes, you'll need a small puller for the flywheel. You should be able to unscrew the clutch...left hand threads.
Yes, that's the correct seal. Actually the OE is 6mm thick, but 7mm works fine.
I jury rigged a steering wheel puller for flywheels that worked for decades. Then a member here offered some freshly machined ones and I got one of those. Excellent machine work and quite the little puller!
If you strip out one of the little puller holes, don't sweat it. Tap to the next size for a bigger bolt. The OE puller hole is puny. However, I've never stripped the next tapped metric size hole.
Oh and don't send your puller bolts down any deeper than the thickness of the flywheel. If you do, you can damage some of the points plate. Ask me how I know.......
Kevin
All good advice except the clutch doesn't unscrew on the 621 or 70E......tapered crankshaft shaft with a keyway same as the 80/90, 52/52E/49sp etc. Definately pay close attention o the depth of your puller screws as Kevin warned....take a good strain on the three bolts and give the end of the crankshaft a good sharp whack...generally pop right off. And when I say the end of the crank I mean either with the nut screwed back on just a whisker shy of flush or if you are usine a centerbolt puller a whack on the centedbolt.
That's correct! Sorry about that....thinking about my Husky clutch.All good advice except the clutch doesn't unscrew on the 621 or 70E......tapered crankshaft shaft with a keyway same as the 80/90, 52/52E/49sp etc. Definately pay close attention o the depth of your puller screws as Kevin warned....take a good strain on the three bolts and give the end of the crankshaft a good sharp whack...generally pop right off. And when I say the end of the crank I mean either with the nut screwed back on just a whisker shy of flush or if you are usine a centerbolt puller a whack on the centedbolt.
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