Tractorsaw1
ArboristSite Guru
Ya I bet that is what's going on, plastic is a toast
Jonsered Chainsaws
- Thread starter briantutt
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2nd on checking/cleaning the recoil spring if the pulley is ok. I just messed with a 625 last week with a lazy recoil. Turned out that the recoil spring was packed full rust & crud. It was so bad that even after cleaning it, it was marginal to even use, but it worked way better than before. The spring needs to be able to slip on itself while under tension.
Yep....unless something is broken or cracked...most recoil systems just respond to a good cleaning/oiling. Good time to replace your starter rope as well.
Most people overlook the importance of a well oiled and clean spring. Having been in the clock repair business in my youth, spring maintenance is everything with how well a clock keeps time.
Not as critical in chainsaws obviously, but still can't be ignored.
Kevin
Most people overlook the importance of a well oiled and clean spring. Having been in the clock repair business in my youth, spring maintenance is everything with how well a clock keeps time.
Not as critical in chainsaws obviously, but still can't be ignored.
Kevin
Old post here but was wondering if this will fit the 820?
Granted I haven't worked on all the old J'reds models, but I've yet to see an application where the 1mm thicker crank seals won't work. They work on the 910, I know that much which is sorta in the same extended family as the 8XX series.
Kevin
Kevin
Should I buy a 70E? I rarely need anything bigger than the three 49SP's that I have running now. But once in awhile I would like to do a little milling. Would a 70 be a nice saw to mill 18 -24 inch oak? There is a nice looking 70 for sale near me. 250. I am tempted but wonder if I would be better to hold out for something even bigger to mill with. I only run saw 10-20 days a year anyhow. Why do I need another saw?
But she looks so nice.
Talk me out of it?
Talk me into it?
But she looks so nice.
Talk me out of it?
Talk me into it?
I've got a 70e and absolutely love them. So dependable, it is my best starting and running saw hands down. Suppose it could mill small oak, but not ideal for the task.
Most of the guys owning mills would tell you the 70e is too small for a mill....even if you don't use the mill that often. Milling is one example where you need a beefy cc saw with power in reserve. For $250, you could buy one of those junk, big cc Chinese clone saws and give it hell in the mill......if it's just about the money.
The 70e has two ignition systems;one has the integral SEM's module that fits over the crankshaft. The other system has the more convention coil/module external to the flywheel. The SEM's modules are unobtainium for the most part. There's been some re-manufacture of the crank SEM's but not for the 70e that I'm aware of. And there's the plastic flywheel fin assembly on the one model as well, but there's a guy that 3D prints those with great success.
All that being said, the 70e is an iconic J'reds saw.
Kevin
SO the 49sp and 70E were from the same time frame. What was the biggest saw from that family of saws? 90?
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Though they are from the same time frame they are not of the same "family"?series of saw. The 49 is of the 50, 51,52/52E and 521 series of 49cc saws. The 70E has only one sibling the 66E.....which though a very dependable saw lacked power compared to the 70E. Did not sell well...same weight, less power. The 80 and 90 are of the largest Jonsereds and of the same family. The 111S is the largest and also has the 110 and 111 as siblings more or less.
Thanks Robin. I took a pass on it today. But seller said he has several of this model. And a collection of over 1000 saws! I took a pass on it primarily due to having just paid 5000 in quarterly taxes and a 2200 dentist bill. I kept his number and when my bank account looks healthier I will still try buy one from him. I have three 49SPs now. Would be nice to have Two 49s a 70 and a 90.
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70E is a great saw but the "E" SEM modules are very hard to come by......and do fail...if you can try and find a late model 70E they changed to a cyl mounted coil like the 49SP but instead of points they had a trigger unit in the carb box....these triggers can be replaced with an Atom or similar points elimination module. These also have an aluminum fan/flywheel instead of the plastic one on the earlier models. These are models with a serial number of 158500 or above.
The 801/80/90 are all in the same family and share many parts. As Robin said, the 110/111/111S were the top dawg until the 910 came along to replace it, which was smaller. However, there was a 100cc 910e that did actually make it to the PNW and was put into service. They had casting problems with the cases and some went back.
It is an extremely rare saw.....so rare that I've never seen a pic of one or how they designated it had 100cc instead of the standard 86cc 910e. I'm pretty sure that the logger they used in their advertisements, Denny, was running this saw....you only ever saw him with a 910e.....even when the 920e came out. My guess is that he was testing maybe a 100cc 910e and refused to give it up when the 920e ads came out.
Kevin
It is an extremely rare saw.....so rare that I've never seen a pic of one or how they designated it had 100cc instead of the standard 86cc 910e. I'm pretty sure that the logger they used in their advertisements, Denny, was running this saw....you only ever saw him with a 910e.....even when the 920e came out. My guess is that he was testing maybe a 100cc 910e and refused to give it up when the 920e ads came out.
Kevin
Gamma Woods
ArboristSite Operative
After 2 tanks, I think the Red Barn piston, Caber rings and a base delete made a bit of a difference on my 820
Still chugs a bit when I let it idle for a minute then tilt it forward, but much better than before. I haven't bypassed the governor yet because my punches aren't quite the right size. I've also got another carb or 2 I could try if it starts to bother me.
Need some real chain, though. This full chisel Archer stuff is softer than the ******* frozen wood!
Still chugs a bit when I let it idle for a minute then tilt it forward, but much better than before. I haven't bypassed the governor yet because my punches aren't quite the right size. I've also got another carb or 2 I could try if it starts to bother me.
Need some real chain, though. This full chisel Archer stuff is softer than the ******* frozen wood!
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Does anyone have a 110, 111 or at least a top cover? I've been looking for a replacement for over a year and can't find one, so I'm going to try to get mine repaired (broken tabs) and get some decals made. I need one measurement - the width of the 1 on the side. I have a 111S cover and the width of the 1 is 12.5mm, but I think it might be larger on the 110 or 111. Thanks!
Best of luck, Scott. You know as well as anyone how scarce anything is with respect to the 110/111/111S. At least you're trying to make it authentic.....kudos!
Probably well worth it to have somebody(good) repair yours. With the right amount of finish work and re-paint, you shoudln't be able to tell it's been repaired.
The English can 'stitch' together cracked, cast iron engines blocks so they are virtually like new......
Kevin
Probably well worth it to have somebody(good) repair yours. With the right amount of finish work and re-paint, you shoudln't be able to tell it's been repaired.
The English can 'stitch' together cracked, cast iron engines blocks so they are virtually like new......
Kevin
Kevin - Yeah, it's been a long search. I am still holding out hope that I can find another top cover, but if not, I'll get mine repaired. Shaun Carr has done a few repairs for me and he always exceeds expectations.
Thanks!
Scott
Scott, I've certainly seen a fair # of cracked 111/111S tops float through eBay over the yrs....!
Kevin
Kevin - Plenty of 111S tops, for sure. But the 111S air filter covers can be hard to come by. The 110/111 one piece tops don't show up very often.
Thanks
Scott
Scott, you're correct....what I saw mostly were the two piece tops.....always missing the obligatory air filter cover part.....lol. But I have seen one or two solid tops float through some yrs ago.
It's funny that now there's almost zero trade/sale movement for 110/111/111S parts. It's as if the owners are saying, "Don't even think of getting near my big Jonsereds stash!" I keep expecting the bubble to burst. Somebody told me the other day that when us Boomers are all gone and enough Gen X's too.....there will be no more common street $100,000+ restored/original muscle car prices. The Millennials and Gen Z's will think that was just our crazy transgressions.....they won't care if they ever see one again.
Kevin
