Found a 111 cover in really nice shape. I'll remove the 111 decals and install 110 decals that I'm having made.
Jonsered Chainsaws
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Found a 111 cover in really nice shape. I'll remove the 111 decals and install 110 decals that I'm having made.
Scott, did you find out the numbers on the 110/111 are a different size than the 111S?
Kevin
No, I haven't confirmed. Hard to find someone who has a 110. I should probably check with the fella in France that got my last 110. He traded me an XA diesel for it.
I can confirm that this seal fits an 820 without any issues so far…..
The crankcase passed the pressure vacuum test.
Here she is running. Mega compression and just vomits oil like crazy. These seem like pretty nice saws for the age.
Nice! They are good saws. They did some wierd stuff with the AV & rear handles on them but I enjoy running mine.
They certainly did! The wrap handle for the 910 both standard and full is a bizarre design for sure.....resplendent with a limiting rod that pokes through a wrap bar to keep from too much travel. The 920/930/930 Super all had Partner designed handles.
If you take off the standard wrap on a 910 and replace it with the full-wrap, you can really appreciate the design weirdness.
Kevin
I picked up a 820 a while back and recently tore into it fo replace the seals and lines and anything else that needs attention.
It does have a scored piston on the exhaust side so I'm assuming it definitely needs seals and a pressure vac test after assembly.
But my first issues I've one across is the carb ...its missing the impulse connection but it doesn't have the hole in the normal Tillotson carb spot .
Is the hole im pointing at in my pic where it would be or is something different here ?
It does have a scored piston on the exhaust side so I'm assuming it definitely needs seals and a pressure vac test after assembly.
But my first issues I've one across is the carb ...its missing the impulse connection but it doesn't have the hole in the normal Tillotson carb spot .
Is the hole im pointing at in my pic where it would be or is something different here ?
Gamma Woods
ArboristSite Operative
Definitely doesn't look like the right carb, but MIGHT just have the wrong cover. That hole isn't for the impulse.
Here's some pics of an HS219A, slightly different than the 219B or C which would have a brass governor in the last 2 images.
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So I should be able to just swap covers the whole carb with this one and I'd be good to go ?
I'm not sure how the heck the saw ran if at all ..it may have been swapped by the PO for some reason and never tested .
Thanks
Ernie
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Gamma Woods
ArboristSite Operative
If the channels line up with the carb and gasket/diaphragms, I'd give it a shot.
I'm curious, I've seen carb covers denippled/swapped out when converting a 625 or 670 to 272 intake setups. Your cylinder has the impulse nipple, correct? Or if anything (or a loose hose) was connected to it
I'm curious, I've seen carb covers denippled/swapped out when converting a 625 or 670 to 272 intake setups. Your cylinder has the impulse nipple, correct? Or if anything (or a loose hose) was connected to it
The cylinder has the nipple yes but there wasn't a line connected to it or anywhere on the carburetor for that matter.
I'm not sure what the deal was with it .
Ernie
Gamma Woods
ArboristSite Operative
Actually, just noticed this on ebay. Looks like this B doesn't have the governor in it either, I might be getting something mixed up.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/255317509186?hash=item3b721c0442:g:dKMAAOSw5rZh14Ft
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/255317509186?hash=item3b721c0442:g:dKMAAOSw5rZh14Ft
This is a Tilly HS carb off a 910E. Notice the impulse fitting is on the little flat island with the lip. So that's where you would drill your hole. The hole pointed to in Post #10,968 is not for an impulse fitting.
The 900 series saws(800 series too) all have an impulse tube and carb boot. That's an earlier carb off a 801/80/90 or something(the one without the impulse fitting). Don't sweat whether or not it has a gov....that's irrelevant and can be easily plugged. I even have ONE correct 80/90 HS Tilly with a gov......all the rest don't have it.
Unless someone installed the old hard block manifold somehow with the impulse channel.....I don't know how it ran either. If it has an OE jug and has the impulse port and rubber carb boot, it's an impulse tube saw.
Kevin
The 900 series saws(800 series too) all have an impulse tube and carb boot. That's an earlier carb off a 801/80/90 or something(the one without the impulse fitting). Don't sweat whether or not it has a gov....that's irrelevant and can be easily plugged. I even have ONE correct 80/90 HS Tilly with a gov......all the rest don't have it.
Unless someone installed the old hard block manifold somehow with the impulse channel.....I don't know how it ran either. If it has an OE jug and has the impulse port and rubber carb boot, it's an impulse tube saw.
Kevin
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I'm very curious how this saw even ran without the impulse line .
Before I took it all apart it sure looked like it was used but maybe not .
I did pick the saw up from an old closed down shop ..maybe taken there by there by the PO because it wouldn't run like it was ...god only knows .
I do need a piston though if anyone has one they'd sell .
Thanks
Ernie
Before I took it all apart it sure looked like it was used but maybe not .
I did pick the saw up from an old closed down shop ..maybe taken there by there by the PO because it wouldn't run like it was ...god only knows .
I do need a piston though if anyone has one they'd sell .
Thanks
Ernie
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A saw this old being passed around.....anything is possible....lol! Sometimes they'll sell for $50 or less(outside of eBay) and so owners feels like they can try anything.
Real potential deals at a closed down saw shop.....mysteries too though.......
Kevin
Real potential deals at a closed down saw shop.....mysteries too though.......
Kevin
Gamma Woods
ArboristSite Operative
Alright, I'm getting a touch agitated. Holds 50kpa pressure and vacuum for infinity after seals replaced, tried 3 carbs (unknown if any of the 3 are perfect but they all hold 10psi pressure.... don't pop until 30PSI and very slow to release for all 3) but the little bitch still pools fuel. Idles lean until you tilt her forwards and then she floods. Yes, I can tune a bit of a median and she has grunt and can cut, but just doesn't feel right. Going from idle to WoT there's a bit (a lot) of back spray. Might post a video.
Before you rule out all the carbs, I'd break one down, ultrasonically clean it and put in a complete carb kit.
I had assembled two HS diaphragm and gasket sandwiches in the wrong order on the bottom of the carbs. Drove me crazy until I checked them.
Kevin
I had assembled two HS diaphragm and gasket sandwiches in the wrong order on the bottom of the carbs. Drove me crazy until I checked them.
Kevin
Gamma Woods
ArboristSite Operative
Already did a full disassembly (except for the butterflies and Welch plugs) and ran them through my USC, then gave them new kits already. I haven't ventured into popping the Welch plugs out and replacing those valves yet, have absolutely no experience in that so I want to practice a bit on some lesser (or even Chinese) carbs first.
What style carb? If it’s a Walboro SDC or Tillotson HS then the small plug has an atomizer screen for the hi speed circuit.
The large plug has no screen but there are three holes for the lo speed circuit.
Some SDC have a check valve under the small plug. I had a saw that wouldn’t run and sure enough someone had rebuilt the carb and not reinstalled the check valve! Easy fix once I figured it out.
I would go ahead and pop them out. It’s pretty simple. Always a good idea to pressure test after pressing in the new plugs though.There is typically no reason to pop the plugs out but if your still having problems you might as well.
Here is a video I made one time. It may help you?
