So, the first year (1982) 630 is what you have there. They had the "s" (I think 1983 had it as well) and the metal flag. My uncle bought one new in December 1982 and it looks just like that. It has the same fuel cap too.
Jonsered Chainsaws
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I do not "have" it yet- just bought and paid for- need to have it boxed and addressed yet.
Hi guys:
I picked up a fairly clean 621 today. Been sitting for years by the smell of the gas. I put new gas lines etc. I need to know the procedure for cleaning and setting the points on this saw. It has great spark with the plug out of the hole, but will not fire with the plug installed. Tried a couple new plugs. Saw has 180 lbs of compression. Are the points behind the plate, behind the flywheel? want to be sure before I start taking too much apart. I have 3 other 621's I have never had to dig too deep into. Also, how do you set the coil air gap when the coil is inside the flywheel?
Thanks,
Regan
I picked up a fairly clean 621 today. Been sitting for years by the smell of the gas. I put new gas lines etc. I need to know the procedure for cleaning and setting the points on this saw. It has great spark with the plug out of the hole, but will not fire with the plug installed. Tried a couple new plugs. Saw has 180 lbs of compression. Are the points behind the plate, behind the flywheel? want to be sure before I start taking too much apart. I have 3 other 621's I have never had to dig too deep into. Also, how do you set the coil air gap when the coil is inside the flywheel?
Thanks,
Regan
My 1983 630. Jonsereds with an S model. Early fuel caps, 20" Total bar, metal brake flag. I believe I have the original manual, IPL and brochure that came with the saw. Nice saw but they obviously don't have the power of follow on models.
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My US$29:11 one just arrived- not quite as tidy, but a ton of compression and fired on residual fuel mix left in the carb,
Another note on the early 630. They came with an S clip that fit over the bar studs so the old 10mm Jonsereds bar would fit as the 630 was the only saw in the lineup to not use it at the time. I have a whole bag of them somewhere.
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Okay, so here is what I got for around US$30- as delivered straight out of the box.
Handle snapped and kind of crude yet functional repair. One unoriginal bar stud nut.
Barely readable serial tag..... but at least it is still there!
Handle snapped and kind of crude yet functional repair. One unoriginal bar stud nut.
Barely readable serial tag..... but at least it is still there!
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Filter a bit grubby
Might have been the odd fines passing the filter.
Might have been running a bit rich.
Might be leaking at the oil pump
Did come with bonus extras though!
Might have been the odd fines passing the filter.
Might have been running a bit rich.
Might be leaking at the oil pump
Did come with bonus extras though!
I have a question about the cylinder base gasket on a 70E
The one I removed is .005 thick and the only gasket material I can find is .015
I’ve thought of using a Manila envelope with some high tack on it because it’s the correct thickness.
The other option I thought of is using a sealant like Moto Seal and inserting a piece of wire or tubing in the impulse port that I can remove after assembly to keep it clear.
The saw has been in a box under the bench for nearly 2 years now and I’ve finally gotten around to it. New Caber ring, crank seals, carb kit are on the bench. Just covering my bases before I dive back into it. Any help is appreciated
When I brought it home
The one I removed is .005 thick and the only gasket material I can find is .015
I’ve thought of using a Manila envelope with some high tack on it because it’s the correct thickness.
The other option I thought of is using a sealant like Moto Seal and inserting a piece of wire or tubing in the impulse port that I can remove after assembly to keep it clear.
The saw has been in a box under the bench for nearly 2 years now and I’ve finally gotten around to it. New Caber ring, crank seals, carb kit are on the bench. Just covering my bases before I dive back into it. Any help is appreciated
When I brought it home
I'd try the .015 gasket material. 70e has a domed piston resulting in compression readings approaching 200 psi. If base gasket is a touch thicker you probably won't notice a difference in performance.
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Pretty good deal for $30.00! A word of advise.....that extra muffler that is split with the multi holed baffle.......I would recomend tossing it or remove the baffle. I rebuilt a 266 XP a while back for a client......used what he brought that wasn't ruined. It came with that "Fish Gill" muffler....the outside was very thin and I recomened we replace it but being a woodbooger and concerned with how much $$$ money was going into an old saw he wanted to use it, so I bolted it up. Saw ran perfect....I ran a couple tanks through it before turning it over to him. About a month later he comes back and says "she's locked up" I pulled the cord and it seemed free enough but when I yanked on it to try and start it, it stopped suddenly in mid pull????? Took it apart and found the inner baffle on the engine side had disintergrated and the stray pieces had entered the cyl......broke the piston and poluted the lower end with metal shrapnel.......he made a bad squirrel decision.....
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Yes, there is a reason that model of muffler was able to be taken apart and not welded together!
Have had experience with those in the past.
Here's a couple example of jonsereds big compression numbers. These saws I recently got from a power equipment dealer that had them sitting around for who knows how long. Compression tested just as I received them. Numbers are from a 49sp, 52, and a 621....as far as I know all use domed piston like 70e.
Thanks for the info. Yeah it’s a domed piston so I’m gonna go with the .015 gasket material and call it good. Not looking to win any races just want it running and cutting again. It’s the only Swede saw in my collection and it doesn’t seem right it’s sitting there in pieces. Again thank you for the info
Alanglerwish
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My guess would be 1996 and it should be a ZAMA C1Q-EL1.
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Wow!! Here's a realy well kept saw...nice kit!!!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2849766812...3MpEEogRCNETto5m4Ai7oy7Zk=|tkp:Bk9SR_b7mZLvYA
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2849766812...3MpEEogRCNETto5m4Ai7oy7Zk=|tkp:Bk9SR_b7mZLvYA
Went back at the 670 champ today.
Talking with a dealer online in messages. He noticed my old pics of 670 brake handle didn’t appear installed right.
So I grabbed the handle out of bin and removed the poulan black handle that worked perfectly.
Put the jred handle on and didn’t change anything. This time it fit perfect with the the right gap needed for hand. No clue what I fubarred last year but another set of eyes caught something none noticed in old pics.
Pic of correct inner part needed still.
Talking with a dealer online in messages. He noticed my old pics of 670 brake handle didn’t appear installed right.
So I grabbed the handle out of bin and removed the poulan black handle that worked perfectly.
Put the jred handle on and didn’t change anything. This time it fit perfect with the the right gap needed for hand. No clue what I fubarred last year but another set of eyes caught something none noticed in old pics.
Pic of correct inner part needed still.
I swear I am about done trying to restore the jonsered saws. To many freaking changes within same series. 670 champ.
Thought I found better top cover to use from a dealer. He said 670 and later. Well I noticed right off some differences. Shorter at front of muffler. Left front bolt hole don’t line up with case hole.
Trying to figure out what top cover this is? Was supposed to be for later 670 champ like mine. The fastener hole front left is to far forward for my 96 later 670 champ case. The front is close to a inch short compared to my other cover and leaves about a inch short on front left case bare too. The idle location is same in covers.
(others said must be earlier cover or maybe later 625 630 cover) me no clue. But if someone needs it can have it for what I paid. One with 2 tickers on it is the one I just bought because it was nicer.
Least I got the correct NOS clutch cover and the champ decal. Even correct year inner plastic piece I had been looking for, for other cover. The other cover had the later 99 ipl inner piece I found that was to short but worked ok for use.
That was the main thing I wanted. Other cover was just a better look thing.
Thought I found better top cover to use from a dealer. He said 670 and later. Well I noticed right off some differences. Shorter at front of muffler. Left front bolt hole don’t line up with case hole.
Trying to figure out what top cover this is? Was supposed to be for later 670 champ like mine. The fastener hole front left is to far forward for my 96 later 670 champ case. The front is close to a inch short compared to my other cover and leaves about a inch short on front left case bare too. The idle location is same in covers.
(others said must be earlier cover or maybe later 625 630 cover) me no clue. But if someone needs it can have it for what I paid. One with 2 tickers on it is the one I just bought because it was nicer.
Least I got the correct NOS clutch cover and the champ decal. Even correct year inner plastic piece I had been looking for, for other cover. The other cover had the later 99 ipl inner piece I found that was to short but worked ok for use.
That was the main thing I wanted. Other cover was just a better look thing.
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Yep....you're not the first guy to have that problem with the top cover. The 670 Champ (or Super II) came after the case change that allowed the one piece ign. All earier saws of this family, both Husky and Jred, had the two piece ign. The flywheel side case change began with the 268XP in 1987 but Jred didn't catch up until like......1992 or 93. When they changed the case half they also repositioned the front left cover screw. When looking at these saws to figure out what time frame they are from I always look at where that front cover screw is located in relation to the front upper recoil cover screw just below it......the recoils are all the same for early or late but the top cover screw is located forward of the recoil screw on the early models and aft of the recoil screw on the late ones. Of course, if the cover is not on the saw that bit info is not that helpful.
