Jonsered Chainsaws

[belgian]

Hey this is page 111 of a Jonsered thread, let's see some pics of some 111S's.

what the man said.....:hmm3grin2orange:

This is n° 3...

 

[cbfarmall]

My pair:

Chris B.

 

[HeRoze]

===These old JReds have very high compression and you need to be committed to start them. \\\

built back when men were men and decomp wasn't around, I guess. I like decomp myself, and my manliness hasn't suffered a bit.

 

[Chris J.]

Funny I was thinking the same thing.

Here's my 111S, sorry but an 80 is in the way polluting the pictureView attachment 238663

Sawfun9's Jonsereds 80 & 111S.

 

[Ambull]

[video=youtube;eLU8y7mBem8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eLU8y7mBem8[/video]

 

[Cantdog]

I'm just mad............I have no 111S.......I do have a pile of 80s and 90s......amd all the other stuff in my sig..............but no 111S.............

 

[heimannm]

Great to see those big red saws, and nice to hear from Roland once in a while.

I don't have any 111S either, but I will keep looking...yellow and red make everything else green with envy.

Mark

 

[Real1shepherd]

That's the color of the original style fuel hose-from the vent box on ...there's better hose out there. The vent on that saw is not run correctly-unless there were some model changes over the yr....it should run over the carb on the left side and then switch over to the right on the back side, while passing through a wire holder. I'll take a pic of mine when I get back into town. The fuel line had its on wire bracket as well using the bottom right, top carb plate screw (as pictured). The vent line is not the original in color, that was replaced at some time. You need to go into the tank and replace that part of the fuel line as well....or at least do a good vacuum test on it.

Get some compressor air in there and clean out that box and fins!! LOL...I could have been the "old guy that used to be a faller", only you would have said that to me with some respect in person.:msp_razz: We're the only reason you'll even see some of these older saws anymore.

Cool on those 111S saw pics, guys! I've been looking for a nice running 111S to work with for yrs. I was even gonna convert my 80 to a 90 but decided for the cost I wasn't getting that much gain. If you guys even want to sell your 111S's....:msp_drool:

This is an amazing thread for Jonsered owners.:msp_thumbsup:

Kevin

I was hoping it was an 80, nice.... got it for $50 from some old guy that use to be a faller back in the day. the compression was 160 witch I thought was very good but dam, these go up to 190-220 thats some high compression. when I did the compression test it was kinda hard to pull so I did it only twice, could be higher after I get deeper into it. one weird thing is like I said it kinda hard to pull but if I take out the plug its allot easier to pull??? Could it be because of the very high compression on these old beasts? also the cylinder looks good too me, so here are a couple of pics of the cylinder, and looks like some one been in the carb area. new fuel line... any thoughts?

 

[Cantdog]

LOL I really like the 80s....but you would gain three things in the conversion. A bit more grunt from a 2mm bigger bore. A real air filter rather than a window screen...and.....saving the best for last....a decomp!!!!!!

I would like to see a side shot of what that intake elbow looks like.....that's a pretty big hole. Any chace of another pic??

 

[Real1shepherd]

Well....I was really close last year; found a decent 90 jug on ebay along with the 90 piston. Found the air cleaner, elbow and top cover with decomp hole. It was all going to cost me around $200. For that little bit of extra "grunt" nah. Be better to find a nice 90 instead of *******izing my old 80. And then I have delusions about finding a nice 111S....so...
and BTW, the flocked filters for the 80 always worked fine in the woods....good or better than those goofy Husky 2100 plastic "screens". I even saw some flocked 2100 filters on the bay...for like $60.00!

As far as a decomp...never had one. I'm used to the method of letting the saw's weight pull the cord...or if I'm really lazy, sticking my toe into the handle. It's all I'm used to and you didn't dare complain about such small stuff in the woods. Probably like it if I ever tried it.:msp_tongue: You should sell me one of your 90's, because I'll probably never find a nice 11S.

Kevin

LOL I really like the 80s....but you would gain three things in the conversion. A bit more grunt from a 2mm bigger bore. A real air filter rather than a window screen...and.....saving the best for last....a decomp!!!!!!

I would like to see a side shot of what that intake elbow looks like.....that's a pretty big hole. Any chace of another pic??

 

[ChainLightning]

Jonsered 2045.

I just got a 2045 today. Has great spark and compression. Doesn't get gas tho. looks like it needs some carb work. Can someone give me some feedback on this saw? Is it a good model? Looks to be about 90s to early 2000s. I never owned a Jonsered before.

 

[taplinhill]

The 2045 is a decent homeowner saw. It shares most parts with the 2041 and 2050. It was available with or without "Turbo". Don't confuse it with the 2145. That's a totally different saw.

 

[ChainLightning]

The 2045 is a decent homeowner saw. It shares most parts with the 2041 and 2050. It was available with or without "Turbo". Don't confuse it with the 2145. That's a totally different saw.

What's the turbo? Also, I cleaned the carb today (while not paying much attention on how the throttle cable hooked up) and now i can't figure out for the life of me how it hooks back up. Could you or someone else help me on that? thanks

 

[Cantdog]

Well....I was really close last year; found a decent 90 jug on ebay along with the 90 piston. Found the air cleaner, elbow and top cover with decomp hole. It was all going to cost me around $200. For that little bit of extra "grunt" nah. Be better to find a nice 90 instead of *******izing my old 80. And then I have delusions about finding a nice 111S....so...
and BTW, the flocked filters for the 80 always worked fine in the woods....good or better than those goofy Husky 2100 plastic "screens". I even saw some flocked 2100 filters on the bay...for like $60.00!

As far as a decomp...never had one. I'm used to the method of letting the saw's weight pull the cord...or if I'm really lazy, sticking my toe into the handle. It's all I'm used to and you didn't dare complain about such small stuff in the woods. Probably like it if I ever tried it.:msp_tongue: You should sell me one of your 90's, because I'll probably never find a nice 11S.

Kevin

there is now way to even tell an 80 from a 90

Yeah the flocked ones are pretty good but the regular bronze screen type just kept out the chunks!! $200 is alot......I paid $45.00 for an almost brand new piston and a used cyl that was near mint from Dozerdude so that makes it doable in my case.....aside from the P&C, top cover, air fliter cover set up and top handle sticker, there is no way to tell the difference between an 80 and a 90..

 

[cinky]

New to the sight. needing some info

A little intro of me. I've been cutting fire wood for about 3 years full time now using a Jonsered E series saw. I live in country New South Wales Australia and I've been felling and cutting some of the biggest and hardest wood that can be found. But now its about time to give my saw a full overhaul before the season kicks into full gear. Now here is my issue, I don't know what saw I have. I know its a E series because I also have a 66E thats slowly being made into a pipe saw. is there any way I can tell what my saw, are there any numbers stamped into the case or cylinder head that will help my identify what size it is. On the top of 66E head this stamped 02 B 79 and on my main saw is stamped 10 B 67. if this helps to identify it

 

[Cantdog]

A little intro of me. I've been cutting fire wood for about 3 years full time now using a Jonsered E series saw. I live in country New South Wales Australia and I've been felling and cutting some of the biggest and hardest wood that can be found. But now its about time to give my saw a full overhaul before the season kicks into full gear. Now here is my issue, I don't know what saw I have. I know its a E series because I also have a 66E thats slowly being made into a pipe saw. is there any way I can tell what my saw, are there any numbers stamped into the case or cylinder head that will help my identify what size it is. On the top of 66E head this stamped 02 B 79 and on my main saw is stamped 10 B 67. if this helps to identify it

There were a number of Jonsereds with the "E" designation following the model number.....from rather small to rather large saws..if it looks like your 66E then it is either a 66E or 70E as those are the only two that would look like that. Also they are identical in every way except the piston and cyl up to serial #158500, then 70E also got a different cyl, ign and flywheel above that #. If you can post a pic I am sure it can be identified quickly. Serial # should be located on a small tag above the fuel cap and to the rear of the case.

 

[cinky]

pics of 66E and other

on the serial plate it has 1501971. the 66E doesnt have an ID plate.View attachment 239521

 

[Cantdog]

OK that is definately a 70E or 66E. The numbers would seem to indicate that it is an earlier version.

Pull the recoil off and it should have a plastic fan and the spark coil should be mounted in the recoil cover itself. If it were a later 70E it would have an aluminum fan and the coil will be mounted on the cyl not the recoil.

So this still puts it at either a 66E or 70E.....pull the muffler off and if it has a single piston ring it is a 70E (50 MM bore)..if it has two piston rings it is a 66E (47MM bore). That is probably the quickest and surest way to tell as the saws are identical visually.....except the 66E has one more cooling fin than the 70E but that is usually hard to see.

 

[Cantdog]

Oh.....sorry...I forgot my manners...welcome to the site!!

 

[Real1shepherd]

there is now way to even tell an 80 from a 90

Yeah the flocked ones are pretty good but the regular bronze screen type just kept out the chunks!! $200 is alot......I paid $45.00 for an almost brand new piston and a used cyl that was near mint from Dozerdude so that makes it doable in my case.....aside from the P&C, top cover, air fliter cover set up and top handle sticker, there is no way to tell the difference between an 80 and a 90..

Most of the 90's I've seen have a slightly different flywheel/starter cover. The screen assembly is domed, whereas the 80 is more flat. Both interchange. Maybe it was even a production change-dunno. And then there's the handle/trigger assembly. I've never been able to figure out what exactly was factory; some can be all plastic at the bottom, some can be partial and even the partials have two styles. I've been looking for yrs to replace my bottom part, but settled for the all plastic assembly while I waited. Mine had a metal bottom with a 'wing' made of plastic and some long screws especially designed to accommodate the 'wing' that passed clear through into a recess. My guess is the 'wing' made it more stable when/if you put your foot through to start.

I would have pulled the trigger on the conversion if it had been around $100 or less. Ebay is NOT the place to find parts for conversions. :msp_thumbdn: I just got through putting my Husky 2100 back together. A customer contracted me to fall a bunch of huge residential trees around two houses. I don't know what kinda trees they were, but they might as well have been bricks (multiple top bull#### is what they were). I varnished my cutters in spite of using lots of oil, coupled with the fact it was a freak day about 100 degrees here. In the process two AV mounts broke.....just a very bad day all around with 'antique' saws. Actually everything went OK until he asked me to re-cut the stumps all the way to the ground for grinding. I'll never do that again for anybody unless they're your typical PNW fir or pine.:msp_mad:

I bought the bronze screen filter for my 80, but it doesn't fit...not long enough. Probably was a filter off another saw model. These flocked filters are crazy in price now.....there has to be a way to flock a filter like the supplier did. The flocked filters were hard to find even back in the day. There's a guy on ebay with flocked filters for the 80....but if you look closely at the pics, you can see some of the flocking is missing. I wrote him about it and he said it was the pics....that they were NOS. I call liar on that one and for that price, I'll be the one on the short end of the stick. They would work fine of course, but he's claiming NOS and for the money they should be just that...NOS without flaws. Or just say that some of the flocking is missing in small places.

Kevin