Jonsered Chainsaws

[nhlogga]

$26.90 for one Jonsered cap? No thanks, I'll keep my money.

Buy a new saw. Sometimes you can get a free hat + you got a new saw! :msp_biggrin:

 

[Tpagel]

Does anyone know where to find a decent aftermarket P&C for a 97 2054 or if there is a husky equivalent that won't break me?
The 2 saws I've bought have been Swedish and red, the 630 runs awesome and this 2054 is complete I robbed the carb for my 2051 and now the 2051 has put my 024 on the shelf.

This cylinder looks toasted IMO ....?View attachment 241182View attachment 241183View attachment 241184View attachment 241185

A few years ago I thought all saws where orange and white what a dumbass

 

[madhatte]

Why this no work?

 

[cjcocn]

Why this no work?

that looks like a jonsered

i would pick him up for sure and if he tried anything i would have me another jonsreds chainsaw

 

[PB]

Does anyone know where to find a decent aftermarket P&C for a 97 2054 or if there is a husky equivalent that won't break me?
The 2 saws I've bought have been Swedish and red, the 630 runs awesome and this 2054 is complete I robbed the carb for my 2051 and now the 2051 has put my 024 on the shelf.

This cylinder looks toasted IMO ....?View attachment 241182View attachment 241183View attachment 241184View attachment 241185

A few years ago I thought all saws where orange and white what a dumbass

Sorry, but you are stuck with trying to find another 2054 top end. Does your saw have a decomp? You could always try to upgrade to a 2055 or 2051, but those are even harder to come by for parts. There are no Husky equivalents to those saws.

 

[HeRoze]

what's the displacement on that 2054?

 

[PB]

what's the displacement on that 2054?

It is either 49cc (with decomp) or 53cc (w/o decomp).

 

[HeRoze]

what's the displacement on that 2054?

53 or 49... nevermind

 

[Tpagel]

This one has a decomp so I guess it would be 49cc. ?

If these are that hard to find I can just have it as parts for my 2051.
thanks for all the info :beer:

 

[stb94tsi]

what kind of carb is in that thing? i've had the same gas overflow on a dolmar demo saw i rebuilt. after a lot of figuring, my last bet was the needle valve seat wasn't quite right, allowing the gas to come up that way. that saw had a duck-bill in disquise, so I gutted that and put in something that would allow pressure to release from the tank. it worked fine after that.

the poulans have a lot of pressure in the tanks, and some of those guys replaced the duck bills with a stihl style (homemade or bought) vent - the one that looks like a tube with screws in it. the newer stihl style vent works better, I hear, and is just stuck on the end of a tube, too.

go down towards the bottom of the page here to see some diagrams, if they help....

.... well, that didn't work. what do we have against the forestry f-o-r-u-m?

i'll load the pics here instead:

View attachment 240950View attachment 240951

On the top of the fuel line junction block (square, white plastic deal) is a fitting that screws into the block and the vent line attaches to it. That has a loose ball type check valve in it which must be loose. Its purpose is mostly to allow air to enter the tank as fuel is used but it is suppose to be loose enough to allow pressure to escape as well........another part of this system is the vent line...it must leave this fitting vertically then loop forward over the choke shaft, and then run back down under the carb and over to a hole in the right side of the that exits in the clutch drum area. Probaly your check valve is stuck or very gummy (remember the varnish?) and not allowing the pressure to escape properly after the saw is shut off and heat builds in the cases and fuel tank. If the fuel level is low enough in the tank you could just crack the fuel cap and release the pressure until the saw cools off. BTW the fuel pumps are in the carb and have nothing at all to do with the white platic deal, it is simply the fuel line and vent junction block...

The other tube running from the white box is the tank vent, I'd make sure that's not plugged allowing pressure to build in the tank. I haven't seen it happen, but seems theoretically possible, that pressure could build in the tank forcing gas into the carb. Also, are you sure the gas is coming from the carb, otherwise it could be a bad crankcase gasket allowing the gas to escape out the bottom of the saw.

OK did some work on her and found that the little ball is sticking inside of the silver vent pipe thing. so can I just bypass this some how? does anyone on here have the part that I'm looking for?

 

[Cantdog]

OK did some work on her and found that the little ball is sticking inside of the silver vent pipe thing. so can I just bypass this some how? does anyone on here have the part that I'm looking for?

Glad you found the problem. No need to bypass. PM me your mailing address and I'll get one out to you. I probably have the correctly formed line that goes with it too if you need it. These will be used parts but in good order.

 

[Joe46]

670 Champ

I was given a semi rough 670 that has a Champ starter on it. The ID tag just says 670. Can you tell by the serial number what it really is? I also have a supposed 670 Super with a tag ID that says 670W. Again ? If you experts can tell by the serial number I'll be happy to post them. Thanks! Really appreciate the knowledge that's in this thread.

 

[taplinhill]

Yes, you can tell by the serial.
The "W" is probably a west coast version (I don't see many of those over here).

 

[cambl]

I was given a semi rough 670 that has a Champ starter on it. The ID tag just says 670. Can you tell by the serial number what it really is? I also have a supposed 670 Super with a tag ID that says 670W. Again ? If you experts can tell by the serial number I'll be happy to post them. Thanks! Really appreciate the knowledge that's in this thread.

The 7 digit serial will tell you year, week, and number off the line that week, but it won't tell you if it was a Super, Champ, etc. unless someone out there knows the serial number break of when the Champ went into production.

I have a couple with the 'W' on the tag and as far as I know that means West Coast version which came with a full wrap handle. The recoils and chain brakes get swapped around so much that it's hard to tell what is what.

 

[Joe46]

Thanks guys. I'll try to post the numbers tonight, and maybe somebody can tell.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Color

What have you guys found to be a best match for the Jonsereds 'red' paint....like on a 80? IH Red looks close, but maybe not the right shade.....?

Kevin

 

[Real1shepherd]

What jreds does everyone look for for collecting purposes. Not looking to resell but if I had to I would to help someone else out.

I was going to make a 90 out of my 80, but it got too expensive from places like ebay/parts. So.....since they share so much, I'd just like to find a nice 90. I thought I wanted a 111S....but I'd probably have to have a donor just to keep ONE running. If you're just collecting saws, it's not a big deal. If you're still using them in work, that's another matter.

Kevin

 

[taplinhill]

What have you guys found to be a best match for the Jonsereds 'red' paint....like on a 80? IH Red looks close, but maybe not the right shade.....?

Kevin

IH red is too "red" and not enough orange. I use "Ford Engine Red". It's real close.

 

[Real1shepherd]

IH red is too "red" and not enough orange. I use "Ford Engine Red". It's real close.

Thanks....I'll give that a shot. I think I've seen Dupli-Color around town in one of the auto parts box stores.:msp_thumbup:

Kevin

 

[PB]

Spike60 uses Western snow plow paint and it looks real close too. I think NAPA carries dupli-color paint, or at least that is where I bought my silver paint for the top covers. Thanks for the tip Eric, I will have to give that color a try.