Jonsered Chainsaws

[taplinhill]

This was my test mule.
The pictures not the best, but you can get the idea.

 

[taplinhill]

And I forgot to add, I did not come up with this match. "Romeo", who used to post a lot on here gave me the color. I just tested it a little.

 

[Real1shepherd]

And I forgot to add, I did not come up with this match. "Romeo", who used to post a lot on here gave me the color. I just tested it a little.

Awesome.....I'm just touching up the bottom and maybe venture to the handle. I'm not the best with a rattle can, but I'll take before/after pics to post.:cool2:

Kevin

 

[nstueve]

hey guys,
I got a 625 that I need to sell for a neighbor but before I do i need to fix the oiler. Checked the worm gear and it was fine. Saw won't oil at idle or when reved up. Any ideas, hints, tips.?.?.?

cheers!
Nathan

 

[Cantdog]

hey guys,
I got a 625 that I need to sell for a neighbor but before I do i need to fix the oiler. Checked the worm gear and it was fine. Saw won't oil at idle or when reved up. Any ideas, hints, tips.?.?.?

cheers!
Nathan

Well it's not supposed to oil at idle...only once the clutch is engaged. Make sure the oil hole in the bar is not plugged and guide plates are on correctly. Make sure the "dogs" in the drum are engaged with the slots in the worm drive gear. Then make sure the oiling adjuster is turned up all the way.....if still no oil you can try using a pump type oil can and shoot a bunch of oil back down the tube from where it comes out behind the bar to "prime" the pump......if no go....... after that you will have to pull the oil pump and check to make sure the pick up screen is not plugged.

 

[nstueve]

Well it's not supposed to oil at idle...only once the clutch is engaged. Make sure the oil hole in the bar is not plugged and guide plates are on correctly. Make sure the "dogs" in the drum are engaged with the slots in the worm drive gear. Then make sure the oiling adjuster is turned up all the way.....if still no oil you can try using a pump type oil can and shoot a bunch of oil back down the tube from where it comes out behind the bar to "prime" the pump......if no go....... after that you will have to pull the oil pump and check to make sure the pick up screen is not plugged.

10-4... I usually take off the bar and clutch cover so I can actually watch the oiler hole to see if any oil is being pumped and how much.

I've already got it tore apart down to the oil pump so I might just take the rest of it apart and clean it all out. Put it back together and prime it to see if she'll start pumping. Does the 625 have a rubber oil hose that might need replaced?

Also, anyone happen to have the little wire throttle linkage for a 625/630/630super??? This saw was missing it and it's the only thing I have left besides the oiler. PN: 503 45 53-01
guessing the 670 is the same too...???

 

[Cantdog]

10-4... I usually take off the bar and clutch cover so I can actually watch the oiler hole to see if any oil is being pumped and how much.

I've already got it tore apart down to the oil pump so I might just take the rest of it apart and clean it all out. Put it back together and prime it to see if she'll start pumping. Does the 625 have a rubber oil hose that might need replaced?

Also, anyone happen to have the little wire throttle linkage for a 625/630/630super??? This saw was missing it and it's the only thing I have left besides the oiler. PN: 503 45 53-01
guessing the 670 is the same too...???

Yes they do have a rubber hose located under the oil pump housing....I doubt that's your problem but that's where it is. You can pull the hose out and the filter is on the end of that. Be aware that the oil pump housing is o-ringed to the case. If there is any question of this o-rings sealablity it should be replaced as it can be an air leak same as a bad crank seal.

You can make a linkage from a piece of stripped 12/2 copper wire to get by...I did this and it worked fine until I got a new one from site sponsor spike60..

 

[cambl]

hey guys,
I got a 625 that I need to sell for a neighbor but before I do i need to fix the oiler. Checked the worm gear and it was fine. Saw won't oil at idle or when reved up. Any ideas, hints, tips.?.?.?

cheers!
Nathan

The oilers on those saws last forever and rarely go bad. You can usually see through the oil fill to check the hose and strainer without pulling the pump. Check the plastic worm gear again- if the square drive teeth are broken or missing that is the most common problem. And everything Cantdog mentioned as well.

 

[PB]

I bought a can of Dupli-Color Ford engine red yesterday and it is the closest match I have found. I will try to get some pictures of the 621 and 80 handles that I just painted. I am really impressed with the way the Dupli-Color paint went on. It looks great, didn't run and is very smooth. Krylon and RustOleum seem to be a little bit thinner, or maybe it is just the engine paint mix.

 

[stb94tsi]

I bought a can of Dupli-Color Ford engine red yesterday and it is the closest match I have found. I will try to get some pictures of the 621 and 80 handles that I just painted. I am really impressed with the way the Dupli-Color paint went on. It looks great, didn't run and is very smooth. Krylon and RustOleum seem to be a little bit thinner, or maybe it is just the engine paint mix.[/QUOTE

it does lay-down better then other rattle paints but if its in you're area, try VHT paint is a little more durable and lays just as good but it is a little harder to get in some areas. also, a good tip is on the first coat should be very thin, i mean spotty coverage that will help prevent any later runage by half. looking forward to some pics...

 

[PB]

You can see the Ford engine red color on the 621 handle next to the NOS 111 handle. If it isn't an exact match it is damn close. Thanks taplinhill and Romeo!

 

[taplinhill]

Look-N-Good, PB!

 

[jonsered 820]

Just thought I'd tell everybody about my luck bought some old saws a month ago from an summer camp and the other day I came home they dropped off a box of parts they said went to the saws I quick skimmed the box not much but later looked more and under the three bars in the box I found a brand new 820 920 air filter still in the original package I couldn't believe it what are the odds when the saws I bought weren't even jonsered's plus it was free now I'm not sure if I even want to put it on my 820 I'm still in shock lol

 

[taplinhill]

I'd hang on to it until your 820 actually needs a filter.
Then you'll know where to get one

 

[Jeff Lary]

Jonsered 630 super magneto ? question

My cousin just asked me somthing that I have no clue about but i do know there are folks in here that do so here goes.
He has a 80"s model 630 super that he took to a dealer because the kill switch will not shut off the engine. The shop told him " oh yea thats a short in the magneto that causes that and you will need a new one"
He told me cause I know a little about my chosen saws( Partner 5000's) and thought maybe I could explain what was wrong to him. Well I have no idea but to me magneto says 1940's tech but what the he11 do I know.
Have you guys any I dea what the issue may be? I figured disconected wire someplace or maybe bad switch but he says the shop checked the switch and it is fine. Also and this struck me as odd ,....the shop told him " yea these saws turn about 12,000 rpm's but that aint good for these old girls so I will retune w/tach so it turns closer to 10,000 much safer for the old engine"
Anyway not trying to steal a thread away from anyone but I dont know how to start a new subject in any of the sticky forums so this is the ony way I know how to ask a question.Have a nice evening and thanks for any responces. Jeff Lary

 

[Cantdog]

Jeff.... I would have to say what the shop told him is pure bunk. If you can't shut the saw of it is the switch...very common problem on all the saws of this family, both Jonsered and Husqvarna. Or it may well be a broken ground wire (that runs between the module and switch) The 80's 630 has a two piece ign system...the module/pickup and the coil ...no mag. When either of these items fail the saw doesn't run at all. I can't rember exactly what max rpm is off the top of my head but it is either 12,500 or 13,000 stock and I've built them to turn in the 14,500 area with no problems what so ever. Ritchening it up to bring the rpm down to 10,000 is foolish..plain and simple. it will burn tons of fuel, run poorly and you risk carbon builduip problems.....find a different shop....those guys are dim....the 630 is an excellent, well made fairly powerful saw. Just tell him to buy a new switch....

 

[Jeff Lary]

New switch hua ? I figured as much I am not familar w/ this brand how big a deal to change out the switch ?

 

[Cantdog]

New switch hua ? I figured as much I am not familar w/ this brand how big a deal to change out the switch ?

If it has the slide type....It just snaps in place and has a metal tab on the inside that has one little screw that holds it in place and provides the ground....the wire simply plugs in to it. 5 min job...

But he should inspect the blue wire running to the switch for any open places...a common problem is that these sometimes get chaffed off inside the recoil cover..

 

[Jeff Lary]

Ok sounds pretty easy ,just 1 more question how many cc is this saw I guessed at 63 ?

 

[Cantdog]

Ok sounds pretty easy ,just 1 more question how many cc is this saw I guessed at 63 ?

Close...61cc..