Jonsered CS2159/Husqvarna 359 - Walbro 199A carb confusement

[MartDalb]

Hey everyone
Got myself a used and very nice looking Jonsered CS 2159 - with a Walbro 199a carburator.

It was sold because of a broken off switch and some unknown carburator issues.
Anyhow, I opened up the carb to find that someone had been fidling with it. Putting double gasket on both sides, a broken non attached throttle spring etc.

But, putting it back together I noticed that something was missing, and when using only 1 gasket (as most normal carbs have) the scews are too long and wont fit.

See diagram. The middle part, -537 04 53-01 is missing from the carb.
I have the version without a hole/compensator? on the top lid, which would indicate it should have this in between the two gaskets and diaphram.

Please correct me if I am wrong?

I have very little experience with these Husky/Jonsered saws, so any help is appriciated, and also if I can swap on a "Zama style" aftermarket carb for the Husqvarna 359, would that fit?
My "aftermarket" and "used parts" are extremely limited where I live, Denmark Europe, along with our prices for most parts, sadly.
So any help is greatly appriciated!


Thanks for all help, as always!

 

[huskihl]

The 199 originally had it, but the previous owner removed it trying to troubleshoot. You can replace the screws with those from a different carburetor or shorten the ones you have, and also you will need to drill a hole in the bottom of the steel plate so that atmospheric air can get into the top side of the metering diaphragm

 

[MartDalb]

The 199 originally had it, but the previous owner removed it trying to troubleshoot. You can replace the screws with those from a different carburetor or shorten the ones you have, and also you will need to drill a hole in the bottom of the steel plate so that atmospheric air can get into the top side of the metering diaphragm

Very Nice, i Will try that firstly, Thanks!

Would an aftermarket carb, like this here work as well?

Link. C·T·S Carburettor for Husqvarna 359 Saw Replaces ZAMA Style https://amzn.eu/d/0KCBfLU
I did match and compare build, style etc, and they are identical. I know from many other purchases that these CTS carbs are quite good - but not sure I can plug and play it walbro/zama wise?

 

[huskihl]

Very Nice, i Will try that firstly, Thanks!

Would an aftermarket carb, like this here work as well?

Link. C·T·S Carburettor for Husqvarna 359 Saw Replaces ZAMA Style https://amzn.eu/d/0KCBfLU
I did match and compare build, style etc, and they are identical. I know from many other purchases that these CTS carbs are quite good - but not sure I can plug and play it walbro/zama wise?

It’s possible that it’s a 199 clone or a zama clone. The problem with most am 357/9 carbs is that they’re actually 346 carb clones, meaning they have a smaller venturi. But if you can find an aftermarket one that is a Walbro clone, as in all the castings are identical to yours on the outside, you could probably use the guts to get your OEM carb operational

 

[MartDalb]

It’s possible that it’s a 199 clone or a zama clone. The problem with most am 357/9 carbs is that they’re actually 346 carb clones, meaning they have a smaller venturi. But if you can find an aftermarket one that is a Walbro clone, as in all the castings are identical to yours on the outside, you could probably use the guts to get your OEM carb operational

Ah, ok I see.
I don't think I can find a Walbro AM carb, this CTS place is the only place i trust the stuff they sell to work.
Perhaps ill just take a wild shot and try. Starting with the drilling a hole in the top lid of the original.
And order the AM one while I am at it. Chances are I will see another 359/2159 in the future anyways

 

[J D]

Some recent discussion about those carbs here:
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/husqvarna-350-plastic-clamp-replacement.359331/post-7722936Treemonkey's fix here:

 

[MartDalb]

Some recent discussion about those carbs here:
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/husqvarna-350-plastic-clamp-replacement.359331/post-7722936Treemonkey's fix here:

That is very interesting, especially that he says that it is actually better to make a hole in the top, because the other solution is a "poor one" being too small.

Top notch video! thanks

 

[J D]

I'd be looking at replacing the plastic clamp on the intake with the updated metal one or equivalent too. Whilst there would also replace the short impulse hose as I've seen several of these that either had pinholes or or weren't the correct hose & had kinked. In my experience with these saws carb/tuning issues are often the combination of a number of minor problems.

 

[MartDalb]

I'd be looking at replacing the plastic clamp on the intake with the updated metal one or equivalent too. Whilst there would also replace the short impulse hose as I've seen several of these that either had pinholes or or weren't the correct hose & had kinked. In my experience with these saws carb/tuning issues are often the combination of a number of minor problems.

It's funny that you mention this, I had my fingers in there and had to "reclamp" that plastic manifold clip. I didn't really like the way it held up, it sat there, but only just so.

I take it I simply replace Part nr. 503 86 62-01 (old plastic clamp system) with the newer Part nr. 537 25 13-02, that has a metal clamp and a separate rubber part?

I had the impulse hose off and stretched it etc. it was actually in descent shape.

Something that is not in descent shape though, and is insanely expensive here, is this part, see picture.
Perhaps this being completely dissolved and broken led to the problem seller got with a broken spring on the carburator.

Thanks for the reply, I will surely replace that clamp system now.

 

[huskihl]

I take it I simply replace Part nr. 503 86 62-01 (old plastic clamp system) with the newer Part nr. 537 25 13-02, that has a metal clamp and a separate rubber part?

I break the plastic lock tabs off of the original and use a 395 screw clamp around the whole thing. The oem replacement clamp is hinky at best

 

[MartDalb]

I break the plastic lock tabs off of the original and use a 395 screw clamp around the whole thing. The oem replacement clamp is hinky at best

395 screw clamp? I'm lost on that one.

Are you are saying I can simply brake off the clip part and put on a metal clamp to hold it instead?
I do have some stihl metal clamps around, but I don't think they match too well.

 

[J D]

Pretty sure any of the clamps from 372-395 will work (I know the 385/390 ones do) & I believe the one's off 066/660's will too. A generic hose clamp will work too if you can find one in just the right size

 

[MartDalb]

View attachment 993408
Pretty sure any of the clamps from 372-395 will work (I know the 385/390 ones do) & I believe the one's off 066/660's will too. A generic hose clamp will work too if you can find one in just the right size

Perfect. Ill try to fit one of my Stihl clamps might fit.

Thanks!

 

[MartDalb]

Does this often go this bad? (not throttle rod)
This one part alone will set me back half as much as I paid for the saw.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Perfect. Ill try to fit one of my Stihl clamps might fit.

Thanks!

The big clamp for the 066/660 intake works well for over the trimmed plastic.
You might get away with smaller model Stihl clamps, but it might be easier to pop the cylinder- fit the intake assembly and clamp- then refit the cylinder.

And yes, the large rubber grommets for the back of the air box the throttle rod travels through do eventually disintegrate- you could possibly cut a bit of old inner tube to replace the centre section and glue it in place to get a few more hours out of that one. They allow the rod to travel with the antivibe between tank and main engine housing- many of the 3## series saws had throttle cables rather than rods to negate this problem- the 2159/359 did not get a cable.

 

[MartDalb]

The big clamp for the 066/660 intake works well for over the trimmed plastic.
You might get away with smaller model Stihl clamps, but it might be easier to pop the cylinder- fit the intake assembly and clamp- then refit the cylinder.

And yes, the large rubber grommets for the back of the air box the throttle rod travels through do eventually disintegrate- you could possibly cut a bit of old inner tube to replace the centre section and glue it in place to get a few more hours out of that one. They allow the rod to travel with the antivibe between tank and main engine housing- many of the 3## series saws had throttle cables rather than rods to negate this problem- the 2159/359 did not get a cable.

Nice thanks! I will look around for a clamp that fits, or buy one, they are not expensive, I can see.

grommets...not a huge fan, but I better replace this one.

Any tips to drilling that hole in the carb lid btw? To not make a mess

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Any tips to drilling that hole in the carb lid btw? To not make a mess

Yes- do so while the cover is off of the carb!

 

[MartDalb]

Yes- do so while the cover is off of the carb!

Best answer ever, thanks

Solid advice and help in this thread, thanks everyone!

I will post again once she is running again

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

If you have other saws with standard atmospheric air holes in the covers of their carbs- compare placement and hole size with those- some will be on the step and towards one side of the cover- others might be dead centre.

 

[Chevboy0167]

Like the others mentioned, much better!