Jonsered CS2159/Husqvarna 359 - Walbro 199A carb confusement

[a. palmer jr.]

I replaced the Walbro 199 on my 359 Husqvarna with the Zama clone and never had a problem, and yes, it is a bolt in.

 

[Aknutter]

Nice thanks! I will look around for a clamp that fits, or buy one, they are not expensive, I can see.

grommets...not a huge fan, but I better replace this one.

Any tips to drilling that hole in the carb lid btw? To not make a mess

Use a clamp that is 35 mm.
Husq # 588 77 5502

 

[J D]

The Zama's are the preferred option for these if you have the choice.
The 350 carbs I had sitting on the bench have the vent to the edge of the cover...

Before putting it back together I like to block the passage that feeds back to the air filter. This can be done by using a diaphragm or gasket without the hole, rotating the one with the hole 180°, or even just by putting a spot of sealant on it

 

[MartDalb]

I replaced the Walbro 199 on my 359 Husqvarna with the Zama clone and never had a problem, and yes, it is a bolt in.

That sounds good, I will order the AM one, test out both, why not? Thanks for the reply!

 

[MartDalb]

The Zama's are the preferred option for these if you have the choice.
The 350 carbs I had sitting on the bench have the vent to the edge of the cover...
View attachment 993474
Before putting it back together I like to block the passage that feeds back to the air filter. This can be done by using a diaphragm or gasket without the hole, rotating the one with the hole 180°, or even just by putting a spot of sealant on it

That is the solutioned mentioned in the video, also in this thread, right? Seems to work out well.

I will be testing both carbs, for the heck of it!

 

[a. palmer jr.]

That sounds good, I will order the AM one, test out both, why not? Thanks for the reply!

The numbers for the one I bought are: C3-EL18B C3-EL42. It was around $15.

 

[Aknutter]

The numbers for the one I bought are: C3-EL18B C3-EL42. It was around $15.

In the oOPEe search mastermind el42 carb fix . He has a fix for the zama carb.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

In the oOPEe search mastermind el42 carb fix . He has a fix for the zama carb.

What kind of fix?, mine seems to do just fine as is..

 

[Aknutter]

What kind of fix?, mine seems to do just fine as is..

He seems to think the carb holds back a little. He removes the the jet/nozzle and drills a through hole. He has a whole discussion of the process and pictures. It was something I came across in the other forum. If the saw isn't ported it probably doesn't matter.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

He seems to think the carb holds back a little. He removes the the jet/nozzle and drills a through hole. He has a whole discussion of the process and pictures. It was something I came across in the other forum. If the saw isn't ported it probably doesn't matter.

Naw, mine's not ported. The only thing I did to it was remove the catalytic muffler and replace it with a standard muffler plus the Zama carb.

 

[MartDalb]

dangit, so decided to pop off the cylinder, one of the cylinder bolts appear to be a "safety" version with a hole in it. I have some tools, but not that one


I am guessing it's an "allen" key not a torx with a hole drilled in the middle I need right?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

dangit, so decided to pop off the cylinder, one of the cylinder bolts appear to be a "safety" version with a hole in it. I have some tools, but not that one


I am guessing it's an "allen" key not a torx with a hole drilled in the middle I need right?

Cannot say I have ever seen a factory fitted security bolt on a Jonsered cylinder- so guessing someone has been here before.
But if it is indeed a cup bolt with a pin in the middle, then yes you need a hole in the central shaft of your tool to remove it.
However, I would not at this stage discount it being Torx - I have seen more of them as security bolts than hex drive ones.
I have a few TENG T27 T handles that have the hole up the middle- but when you use them on standard T27 bolts the ends tend to snap off the tool.

Are you only taking the cylinder off to make fitting the intake band easier? If so I would check the piston through the exhaust port and if it looked good- put the other three bolts back in and find another way to skin the band placement cat.

 

[MartDalb]

Cannot say I have ever seen a factory fitted security bolt on a Jonsered cylinder- so guessing someone has been here before.
But if it is indeed a cup bolt with a pin in the middle, then yes you need a hole in the central shaft of your tool to remove it.
However, I would not at this stage discount it being Torx - I have seen more of them as security bolts than hex drive ones.
I have a few TENG T27 T handles that have the hole up the middle- but when you use them on standard T27 bolts the ends tend to snap off the tool.

Are you only taking the cylinder off to make fitting the intake band easier? If so I would check the piston through the exhaust port and if it looked good- put the other three bolts back in and find another way to skin the band placement cat.

Trying out the 3 other cylinder bolts my T25 fits and works on them.
and yeah, I would think it may be a T25 with a safety pin in it.
So either I find a T25 with hole or drill one in...if that is even possible.


Yeah only removing the top to remove that annoying clamp and manifold. It won't budge from it's possition as is.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

If you are 100% sure it is T25, the tool should be easily found- search for T25 tamperproof, or T25 security- should show a picture of the torx end of the tool with a black dot centre to signify the hole.
Were the other three also T25?

 

[MartDalb]

If you are 100% sure it is T25, the tool should be easily found- search for T25 tamperproof, or T25 security- should show a picture of the torx end of the tool with a black dot centre to signify the hole.
Were the other three also T25?

No I took those out with my allan/hex key, but trying them out with my T25 actually works as well?...

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

For one bolt- go visit an automotive mechanic and bring cake for morning tea- he or she may have the correct tool in the tool chest and remove it for you- throw it away and replace the same as the other three.
You might buy a tamperproof T25 tool and either it does not fit, or breaks the first time you try to use it and leaving you no further ahead apart from time past and money spent.

 

[MartDalb]

For one bolt- go visit an automotive mechanic and bring cake for morning tea- he or she may have the correct tool in the tool chest and remove it for you- throw it away and replace the same as the other three.
You might buy a tamperproof T25 tool and either it does not fit, or breaks the first time you try to use it and leaving you no further ahead apart from time past and money spent.

Sounds like a plan, this is not the first time I am missing that safety tool though, Stihl has some on their newer models, ran into isues with a T10 safety pin on a Stihl MS261 (Mtronic stuff ofcourse)


Oh and I forgot to add, two of the cylinder bolts were not tight, not tight at all, came loose from no pressure at all, always have to check every little bit on used saws, especially the ones where someone has clearly been trying to fiddle around with it.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

If you are 100% sure it is T25, the tool should be easily found- search for T25 tamperproof, or T25 security- should show a picture of the torx end of the tool with a black dot centre to signify the hole.
Were the other three also T25?

I was thinking mine was Allen head bolts when I replaced my cylinder last year, could be wrong, I guess.

 

[MartDalb]

I was thinking mine was Allen head bolts when I replaced my cylinder last year, could be wrong, I guess.

Perhaps someone added it later on, or they use other type bolts here in EU?

I will get it out and see, I will however add my own Torx27 cylinder bolt or an OEM Husqvarna one without safety. I hate those things...

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Out of curiosity I went out to the shop and checked the 359 and it definitely has Allen bolts holding the cylinder on. My memory I guess isn't completely shot..