I'll check mine - I have two fairly complete powerheads here.
Jonsereds 110/111/111S Info Sharing Thread
- Thread starter bulletpruf
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I'll check mine - I have two fairly complete powerheads here.
A saw buddy found the old Oregon conversion chart. 20192 is indeed the clutch # for the 110/111/111S. Listing shows $3.40 for the drum....lol!
Now if I could only find one!
Kevin
Happy T-Day everyone!
Kevin
Kevin
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
So I've been working on this deal since this thread started. It's a little ruff looking but the original price was 4 Bill's and now it will be covered by helping my dealer clean out the shop.
Can’t beat that! Does it start & run?
Kevin
Kevin
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
I didn't try it. But he says it runs and I have no reason to doubt him. The P/C aren't original but he ordered the replacements from jonsereds when you could still get them from the factory. Theres a 49? Sitting there to might try to grab that.
Hmmm....don’t take his word for it if it’s been sitting a long time. Stale gas, plugged filter, corroded points etc. Don’t make an issue of it either....just keep that in the back of your mind when you’re trying to start it.
The 49 is a great little design, but it’s not a ‘pro’ line J’reds. They’ve cut a lot of firewood. 52E would outlast a couple of 49sp’s. Grab that if you have a choice.
Nobody cares if the P&C are original to the saw, as long as they were factory replacements. At least not yet anyway.....lol.
Put some Cabers in there and smile after a couple of tanks.
Kevin
The 49 is a great little design, but it’s not a ‘pro’ line J’reds. They’ve cut a lot of firewood. 52E would outlast a couple of 49sp’s. Grab that if you have a choice.
Nobody cares if the P&C are original to the saw, as long as they were factory replacements. At least not yet anyway.....lol.
Put some Cabers in there and smile after a couple of tanks.
Kevin
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
Have any if you ever seen a jonsereds service manual for the 111? I got the ipl and a clymer service manual from ray benson. He says they've never been able to find a jonsereds service manual.
I can’t say I’ve ever seen one for sale. If you know anyone who worked for Tilton or Scotsco they’d know.
Kevin
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
Is this the way these saws came? 3/8 7pin rim setup. It's an Oregon drum with the # 20192 stamped on it.
The drum is a correct Oregon drum for that saw. You can put a .404 rim on it as well.
They seem to have come from the factory with a .404 spur drive drum.....worthless on a saw of this size.
Most likely Scotsco and Tilton set them up with that Oregon drum and .404 chisel chain as they sold in the PNW.
Kevin
They seem to have come from the factory with a .404 spur drive drum.....worthless on a saw of this size.
Most likely Scotsco and Tilton set them up with that Oregon drum and .404 chisel chain as they sold in the PNW.
Kevin
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2009
- Messages
- 16,765
- Reaction score
- 16,083
- Location
- Beautiful Rockbound Coast of Maine
Yep mine came with the actual original spur drive and was in fine shape but was .404.......I picked up a kit off ebay a while back.....came with a new Oregon rim drive drum and a .404 X 7 rim and a 3/8 X 8 rim and a new bearing. I don't have any other .404 rigs and the 36" roller tip bar, though impressive is very heavy and I wanted to be able to run some of the lighter 20", 24". and 28" bars I have....they are all 3/8 so this was just what I needed.......can't remember the price but I expect I paid dearly.......as usual with ANYTHING connected to the 111S.....
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
Pulled the covers and muffler yesterday to look over everything and clean it up. Good spark and P/C look good. So ran a shot of mix down the carb.
Been sitting a long time...fuel lines, filter, carb kit.
I'd do a vacuum/pressure test on the crank seals as well. Lots of folks recently are frying valuable saws after a tank of so because the seals are letting go due to their age. New seals are cheap insurance......
I'd carefully clean that coke/carbon out of the exhaust port too....
Kevin
I'd do a vacuum/pressure test on the crank seals as well. Lots of folks recently are frying valuable saws after a tank of so because the seals are letting go due to their age. New seals are cheap insurance......
I'd carefully clean that coke/carbon out of the exhaust port too....
Kevin
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
Carb,lines,and filter were on the list. Do you know of a good place to get seals if I need them?
A local seal/bearing place is best. Double lip seal;15X30X7.
Amazon has them but as a add-on for $25 or more in the TCM brand. You can't usually find them in 6mm thick, but easy to find in 7mm thickness. Same seal as the 80/90/801 crank seals.
Kevin
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
So I'm back with more questions. What should the compression be on these. I've run an 80 at a gtg and it would RIP the starter handle out of your hand. In the video I posted I closed the decomp befor the pull when it started. P/C are spotless. Could the rings be stuck or do the 111s not run the 200+psi the 80s and 90s seem to?
The older commercial saws like the Husky 2100 ran around 165psi from the factory. They rip with at least 150psi. I'm not sure what is typical from the factory for the 111S, but I know it will run with 150psi+. My old 80 I've used for 35yrs runs about 158psi and it rips. So....it's great if you have a 801/80/90 with 200psi+ but there's no reason to fret unless you are under 150psi.
A lot of these old saws now need new crank seals and if there's no transfers, you can slip in some new Cabers and continue on.
Kevin
A lot of these old saws now need new crank seals and if there's no transfers, you can slip in some new Cabers and continue on.
Kevin
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thank you sir you have been alot of help with answering my questions.
