Just how important is speed ?

[rahtreelimbs]

I've been a member here for almost a year. With all the threads and posts about muffler mods and chainsaw mods and the resulting gain in power and speed. I have begun to wonder about opinions about chainsaw speed. In another thread, Stihl Prices, I mentioned one of my Shindaiwa chainsaws. While this saw is slower than a comparable Husky 372 or Stihl 044, I just flatout like the saw. I am also in a different situation than others on this site. I only do treework on the weekends, so big production is not such an issue with me. I am also still less experienced than most so I am low on production anyway. So is chainsaw speed that big on your list?

 

[crowe]

The thing I like about chain speed is that the faster she cuts the smoother it cuts. Although speed does not replace stump power, you just need a good mix of both. I am sure that you got a good saw it doesnt have to be turning 13000 rpms to be cutting fast and smooth it just helps make it a little smoother. Later Wade

 

[treeclimber165]

Wade is on the right track. My favorite saw I ever owned was my 038Magnum. Gobs of torque for a mid-size saw. I don't need the fastest spinning chain but it better be able to keep pulling when the bar is 3/4 buried.
When the 044 came out, I still preferred my 038Mag. The 044 was higher revving but the 038 would out-pull it in large cuts with the 27" bar buried.
One of the disadvantages of the 020T climbing saw that I've noticed (in my limited experience using them) is that they don't have a lot of low end grunt. If the chain stops in a big cut (for whatever reason) you cannot just hit the throttle to get it going again. You need to pull the saw oujt of the cut, rev it up, and then go back into the cut. It may have more power on the top end, but less usable power for me.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

Originally posted by crowe
The thing I like about chain speed is that the faster she cuts the smoother it cuts.

Excellent point!

 

[Gypo Logger]

Hi Rich, althought you ask a valid question, I have never stood there at the stump and said to myself: " Man I wish this 088 was running a bit slower, so I could have some good ole fashioned, low end grunt."
The phenomena that you speak of, generally happens incidently to dull chain and worn sprockets.
Not trying to be a smart as$ or nothing, I cant understand why someone would want a retarded saw, when making your motor run as it should be makes everything so much easier.
Casual users, persay, are not accomplished enough to appreciate the added gains. As a generalization, casual users are happy with stock saws and equate cutting speed with danger, however,the opposite is the case.
Using a stock saw is much like running uphill with a 5# rock in your pocket.
The bottom line is, it's your saw and you can run it the way you want, regardless of what others say.
John

 

[rahtreelimbs]

posted by Gypologger:


Not trying to be a smart as$ or nothing




Gypo, don't worry. I didn't take it as a smarts$$ comment.

I wasn't saying to intentionally make a saw run slower. Just that some saws inherently run slower than others. Take my Stihl 066 and my Solo 690: both great saws just that the 690 runs slower than the 066. This I don't mind. Some saws make more power at a slightly lower rpm the the manufacturers maximum rpm. I was also taking weight into consideration and also how the saw feels to that particular operator.

 

[treeclimber165]

Gypo- When did you get your first modified saw? I believe you were all excited about your first Walkerized saw a little over a year ago.
Are you saying that the 038Mag is a retarded saw? Mine was stock and compared favorably to stock 044's when I had it several years ago. Until 10 years ago, modifying saws wasn't necessary to have them run as they should. Only after EPA mandated jet limiters (or fixed jets) and tiny single port mufflers with massive baffling on stock saws did modification become necessary for the professional user.

(edit- I was mistaken. Gypo was talking about his 6th Walkerized saw, but still hadn't been running modified saws very long. http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?s=&postid=9281#post9281 )

 

[Gypo Logger]

Hi Brian, yes you are correct, I remember how elated I was when I first got that 372 from Walkers. The bad news is that I wish I had discovered them sooner. Prior to that, I used mostly 066's with 16" bars to cut over 5000 full cords in 10 years. Some ran better than others, but I didnt know why at that time.
I guess what is more important than realizing extra hp., is the way we treat our saws and keep them razor sharp at all times, otherwise it's all in vain.
The 038 is one of the best saws that Stihl ever made, but not as fast as an 044. So to answer your question, yes you have a retarded 038 (':
I guess what I am trying to say here, is that there are many ways to get more out of a saw, and many more ways to retard one.
In the 2 years since I have been using modified saws, I have become quite the expert (sexual intelectual- f@#$en knowitall), just ask anyone in town.
John

 

[Chainsaw_Maniac]

The slow vs fast comparison isn't the same as the modified vs stock comparison, cuz modified saws have both a speed and power increase. Oh ya, and the 38 mag is a nice saw. A little heavy for it's 72cc, but still outcuts the 70cc 44 when both are stock. I've used the 38 mag to cut more wood than any other single model of saw.

 

[tony marks]

i voted for faster saws. but still the most important thing is that the saw does the same thing day in an day out.that way i can spend my time working instead of working on saws.this of course with good maintenance.
in the south the plow mule was the preferred work animal. not because he was stronger ,but because he consistantly leaned into the load ,instead of jumping around etc.some plow horses especially those with a little hot blood
could darn near get u killed ,before they got tired enough to settle into the job.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Hi Tony, your mule story reminds me of when I went to see Otto and his brother Otto in Arkansaw. They sure new how to handle them.
John

 

[Chainsaw_Maniac]

Good comparison to the mule thing, tony. That's exactly why I always replace my chainsaws with new ones when they start giving me trouble. Having the saw work consistantly and dependantly all the time is more important than anything to me. (But there's no reason not to wish for more speed and power in addition to that).

 

[Sethro]

Hi Rich
Fast saws are safer and can keep you out of trouble at the stump and if your a busheler they can help eliminate falling defects and make more money.Seth

 

[stihltech]

band

Aren't we talking about powern within a speed band? Let's say the 038 ran at 11,500 in it power band and an 044 ran at 13,000( stock, I believe this will be closer to 12500).
Will the 44 out cut the 38 by a whole log at the end of the day, all other things being equal, chain, etc.
Is it worth dumping an 028 for an 026 for speed only?

 

[z4lunch]

It's all about speed!!!

 

[Gypo Logger]

Does anyone know where the powerband is located on a saw?
Since I have never disassembled a saw before, I dont know what it looks like. Does anyone have a part # for one off a 046?
Thanks in advance.

 

[glens]

Maybe one of "our" builders who're (isn't that a fun contraction?) on more intimate terms will let us know the answer to that one. 

My uneducated guess is that it's somewhere between the throttle trigger and the muffler outlet.  It would have to be, else it would change as different bar/chains are used. 

Wait a minute.&nbsp; Maybe it <i>is</i> in the bar/chain.&nbsp;

I think the shorter pairs have bigger power bands to compensate for their lack of stature.&nbsp; Yeah, my 036 cuts a lot faster with a 16" bar than it does with a 24" so the smaller one must have a bigger band.

 

[WRW]

Don't know the part # but it's the loose nut behind the throttle that adjusts it.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

i think i can get a wider range of 'effects' and control from a fast saw in the air. Even to the point of nipping out the sides (for less meat/ competition for whatever power is available). Especially when topping for top cleanly letting lose at just the right time; with as lil'bronco riding as possible. i set up to fly through as fast as possible like that; if i want to go slower, i can back off the trigger; but maximum speed, sometimes takes some pre-thought! So i set it up for high speed, to have widest range of adjustment, down to the last second. i kinda rate saws for how much i can get out of'em / per how much weight needs to be carried.

i think 028/038's where wonderful, hard to kill saws, with a solid feel; (38's with enough stuff to rip, crosscut etc.) But in the power to weight dept. fall short of today's saws, IMLHO

Wouldn't a faster, sharper saw; make cleaner, faster healing cuts?

Of course shorter bar with same power input, will cut faster, beter balanced etc.; but i would think that an 066 only carrying 16" (esp. 3/8) would allow to high a revving; especially if not buried well into wood? Is there such a thing as to short a bar/load on powerhead?

i think power-band refers to the sweet music that a saw takes off and flies thru wood with full control easily; therefore no known part number!.

 

[Oregon_Rob]

How many people run fast/light saws on a daily basis, but just can’t seem to let go of that one or two, or in sometimes 50 older saws that have that sentimental value? You know how sentimental the chainsaw crowd can be!

As far as fast Vs. not-so-fast for getting work done it seems obvious to me. More work, faster = More $ and less tired.

Having not done any real tree work, I would guess that setup, preparation, rigging & safety…. take more time than actual time in the cut. So cut time is not as critical to the overall job.

Cutting up truck loads of logs for firewood, cut time is the biggest factor, time wise. In this case, I want a saw that will make it through each cut as quickly as possible so I can get to the next cut.