Just roached a new Meteor cylinder on my Husky 395, ticked off.

[Conquistador3]

How do they get away with this? All two stroke oil I've purchased always read "Follow manufacturer's recommendations carefully".

The only company which has guidelines on oil mixture is Motul, and only on some ancient Villiers engines, which they recommend should be run at 4% instead than at the originally specified 6%. Oils have changed a bit in the meantime.
For the rest is "Follow manufacturer's recommendations carefully".

The leanest oil/fuel mixture I've seen recommended is 0.9% by Ossa on their FI dirt bike engines, which I suspect is the bare minimum they could go to keep emissions low without compromising reliability. But on a chainsaw? Never go under 2%.

 

[Mattyo]

Did you ever figure out why you roached the first top end?

 

[rob066]

I run the Amsoil Saber oil. But I sure as hell wont run it at 100:1. I run it at 40:1 with no issues. I use it even in my very hard used K760 chop saw.

 

[bikemike]

32.1 for first few tanks then 40.1 after that for me. That's if it is a good oil. The cheep 32.1.

My foreman runs that stuff on his big husky but it was not using it till broke in.

 

[smokey7]

I don't think I would ever brake one in on 100:1. I do have 2 pieces running 100:1 right now as a torture test and they are doing well. Note that they were at 32:1 before so they had the cases oiled up well. They have ran several gallons of fuel this way. A fresh top end needs some oil to deal with all of the extra heat of brake in.

 

[bikemike]

Sparking plugs are cheeper than internal parts

 

[cuinrearview]

On the bright side, you'll be able to replace the piston and cylinder with OEM this time for about the same price as Meteor.

 

[sunfish]

100:1 that is some funny **** & stuff...

 

[buzz sawyer]

eh, they state that you could go "as lean as 100:1", not that it's safe to run 100:1 in all 2-cycles. That would be just plain crazy.
View attachment 494607

I read this label as saying, "where recommended by the OEM".

 

[decableguy2000]

I'm with Mattyo on this

Did you ever figure out why you roached the first top end?

You need to do this before you disassemble the saw. Double check your bearings as well.
I would also go with OEM top ends since they dropped the price, check with some of the dealers on this site like Terry Landrum Or Spike60.
This turned into a oil thread quickly. My 2 cents is run 40:1 what ever oil you want. I have used Opti-oil for years on other equipment and had no issue, but never had peace of mind. I use Stihl 2.5gal mix with 2 gallons of gas.

 

[Mattyo]

This turned into an oil thread....and although I think 100:1 is insane for breakin....it may not be the issue. Need to rule out seals first. Clutch side seal is integral with the bearing I think.

This needs to be a diagnosis thread not a oil thread.

 

[smokey7]

I agree completely with it needing cleared of health issues before ever trying such a lean mix as 100:1. Now I will be really interested to see if it does have a air leak. What did the last top end failure look like? Did it run 100:1 on last failure? Let's see some pictures. Also how long did it run with the new top end?

 

[sugarbush]

if there's no damage on the exhaust side it wasn't from your mix. something was pulled into the intake or installation problem.

 

[MnSam]

I was kind of thinking this as well, strange that it smeared on the intake side and not on the exhaust side. I'd set aside oil related thoughts for now.

 

[Mattyo]

pix are needed, and the result of a pressure test

 

[old guy]

To me the front of the saw is the exhaust side and he said the front, did I miss something?

John

 

[smokey7]

I thought it was the exhuste side too.

 

[sugarbush]

he also said " definitely pointing forward" so assumed he was referring to piston.

To me the front of the saw is the exhaust side and he said the front, did I miss something?

John

 

[superw6]

My KTM 125 dirt bike recommend Motorex oil. Motorex oil bottle says up to 100:1 ratio. Ktm says use that oil at 40:1 so that's what it gets[emoji851][emoji10]


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[grizz55chev]

Most important thing when fixing your saw is knowing the basics, proper oil to gas ratio, knowing what a properly tuned saw sounds like, and knowing when to shut it down because it's about to blow up. These things come with experience, I. E. making mistakes, and spending your hard earned money on parts and your time tinkering with your saw. Just slapping a new top end on without finding the reason for the first failure will give you said experience.